AZ Factory S/S 2022 Paris

[Cute]

somebody please have some mercy and edit the designers’ names into these posts.. for the scroll button-challenged like me.

If you watch the show, they project the designer when the look comes out.

 

[Delleone]

Perhaps you had to be there.

 

[Lola701]

I want to know what Pieter, Nadège and Gabriella were thinking about? Even Vivienne, Iris or Armani…What’s the point?
I think Daniel Lee referenced Alber’s rendition of YSL’s bambara dresses from SS08.

It’s actually funny to see the impact of that collection…

The collection by the studio was good and full of Alber-ism.

Alber was a very supportive designer and someone who was really loved in Paris so it’s great that Richemont organized that for him.

Why Hedi is never participating in anything? He is nowhere to be found at the LVMH prize, nowhere to be found here. It’s not like Alber wasn’t a supporter of him…

 

[mikel]

Such a wonderful tribute!

The music from A Single Man at the end broke my heart.

 

[Valentine27]

Yes, because he deserves it

I haven't kept up with the news so I had no idea, that was a real question. Thanks anyway!

 

[Yohji]

Oh god, I didn't even notice Iris Van Herpen's look. Talk about one trick pony.

Luckily the good outweighs the bad. It was so overwhelming seeing all those looks last night that I didn't notice the details especially in Ralph Lauren's look. Dries and Rosie's looks are so fun! I like how Anthony Vaccarello referenced Alber but still retained the Saint Laurent aesthetic. Very '00s Lanvin.

 

[perfect blue]

Pretty much anytime they had an image or drawing of Alber on a piece, I was really moved.

yes, I was wondering why Hedi didn’t contribute also.

 

[Scotty]

The gowns didn't make any sense. Alber never made big puffy gowns. The rest was good though. Iris was the worst.

So what is going to happen to this brand? This is only the second or third season.

 

[TianCouture]

Can't believe who good the Balmain look is-why can't we get more of that.

Hearst should be embarrassed. They need to remove her from Chloe immediately.

 

[Scotty]

Yes I absolutely agree with you, in some desiners creations there is no Albert Elbaz at all, especially in Bottega's ( sorry, I absolutely don't understand, what this dress and shoes from previous collections do there)

Bottega's made sense to me. The beaded dresses of S/S 08.

vogue

 

[Machinegumm]

That IVH sticks out like a sore thumb. I had to do a double take when I scrolled down.

 

[kasper!]

Can anybody erase Gabriela Hearst's look?

I hope Tom Ford can contribute...he is one of the few designer/brands which still does evening looks on every show. Alber is quite famous for his evening design. We need more evening/formal looks! No jeans! More gowns....

 

[reesewu]

It was such a lovely tribute and the perfect ending for fashion week . Almost everyone did a great job, with very nice surprises from Maria, Olivier, Mathew and Virgil. I'm really glad Nicolas did something with elements from his Resort 2022 collection as I thought some of the looks from that collection really echoed Alber.

Christopher John Rogers is the worst. I can't believe how cheap that look is! I'm also disappointed in the CdG look: it's almost the same look lifted straight from her SS21 collection.

 

[bc collector]

For me the winning look was Bruno Sialelli's, maybe because it was an exact replica of some dresses from SS08 and gave an exact measure of what a skilled technician Alber was (especially when compared to the next look by J Anderson who, on the contrary, is nothing of the sort and the last Loewe show proved it).
For me this show was a double edge business for many participants: I have no idea why Raf, Giorgio Armani, Gabriela Hearst, Iris Van Herpen - not to mention CJ Rogers - were even there, they ended up betraying how narrow their approach to design is (at this point, maybe Hedi did the right thing and spared us the hassle).

I kind of smiled when I saw Rick's dress. Flashback to 2014, when I was in Paris for work and happened, at the Brasserie Lipp, to be sitting next to the Lanvin crew, who were celebrating post-show. At a certain point I eavesdropped on Alber who was commenting on Rick's love menage: "I do not understand why he goes on saying he's bi...he's not bi, HE'S GAYYYYY...".
You had to love the man.

 

[StylishCynic]

For me this show was a double edge business for many participants: I have no idea why Raf... [was] even there, they ended up betraying how narrow their approach to design is (at this point, maybe Hedi did the right thing and spared us the hassle).

Actually, I felt completely different about Raf's dress. It found it to be a perfect homage to Alber and he infused just enough of the Raf DNA to not overtake the design with his own.

Alber's collections for Lanvin, especially 2007 - 2010, had a tinge of darkness to them. He especially loved to work with velvet in his fall collections. I have the below dress from Fall 2008 in my personal archive, and there are a lot of parallels in the design to Raf's Alber dress. He lengthened the silhouette and removed the bow on the hip, but the core is very much an Alber silhouette.



Source: FarFetch, VOGUE Runway

 

[Abby Zacky]

So good, except, Maria Grazia, Gabriela Hearst, please...

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Anthony Vaccarello's look is actually really pulling on my heartstrings omg

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Actually, I felt completely different about Raf's dress. It found it to be a perfect homage to Alber and he infused just enough of the Raf DNA to not overtake the design with his own.

Alber's collections for Lanvin, especially 2007 - 2010, had a tinge of darkness to them. He especially loved to work with velvet in his fall collections. I have the below dress from Fall 2008 in my personal archive, and there are a lot of parallels in the design to Raf's Alber dress. He lengthened the silhouette and removed the bow on the hip, but the core is very much an Alber silhouette.

View attachment 1189536View attachment 1189537

Source: FarFetch, VOGUE Runway

Lanvin FW08 was so magic. I am so happy to read stories about people collection pieces from that era.
So much darkness, richness, elegance in this collection. Killer cast and amazing soundtrack. It's still my favorite Lanvin collection so far.

 

[chinsumo]

Definitely see Tilda Swinton's Oscar dress inspired Raf's look

zimbio

 

[YohjiAddict]

I was very close to crying by the time his team's collection walked out, so sad and yet so reaffirming to know other people, his colleagues, appreciated his work and were proud to conmemorate his life's labour, a life dedicated to fashion and, most importantly, to women.

It was weird seeing how some people didn't make much of an effort with their creations when even designers whose aesthetic are far removed from Alber's were willing to incorporate some of his signature exhuberance into their look, Glen Martens or Rick Owens even went all in with the pink. Still,watching such a front-row, all sincerely smiling and applauding his last creations was more than worth it!