I'm no friend of Demna, just to be clear, but this felt like a breath of fresh air in the midst of the autopilot - generated collections he keeps churning out for the RTW.
Not all the looks were successful, especially the gowns in the last part of the show, verging as they were on the caricature side of fashion (and maybe Demna should be reminded that Cristobal experimented with silhouettes, but never at the expense of the comfort of the woman wearing his clothes).
If anything, this was a reminder that, when he wants, Gvasalia is a very skilled technician, able to exert extreme control on shapes and garment construction.
p.s: what must have Tim Blanks done to be relegated to second row?