Balenciaga F/W 05.06 Paris

[_Astrid_]

PS: Hi Maarit.

 

[Estella*]

i like alot of it, especially coats and jackets...but i know it has been said before, all this fur freaks me out...why??

 

[faust]

Not bad, except the terrible, michael korsy use of fur.

 

[Ella]

Wow, by far my favorite collection this season. Great, great coats.

 

[kimair]

checked out the whole thing on balenciaga.com...by far THE collection of the season!! those coats...the dresses...the detailing...all of it is stunning!!

here's the review from wwd...

There’s no question that Gucci Group is in transition mode as it struggles to reestablish its fashion influence and its commercial power base. At best, the returns are still out on Alessandra Facchinetti’s Gucci, while most of the group’s other houses are still grasping at profitability, a situation fueled by numerous factors. But one thing is crystal clear: At Balenciaga, the talent quotient is sky-high.

Hardly a bulletin. But the fabulous collection Nicolas Ghesquière showed so brilliantly on Tuesday gave testimony to more than his talent. At times, he and Gucci Group’s ruling powers have found themselves at critical cross-purposes, one dogged in his artistic determination, the other, weary with impatience. But as reported in WWD on Tuesday, Ghesquière now seems more than ready to play ball on a commercial field. And his collection did not suffer an iota for its obvious salability.

The designer claimed a Françoise Hardy inspiration, and certainly a Sixties-cum-Space Age vibe pulsed throughout. But it did so subtly, and not before the designer established his primary platform: a modernist take on high-glam, urbane chic, and despite lots of denim, zero pretense toward a casual mind-set. Rather, Ghesquière played to the woman for whom polish is all, while testing his ongoing fascination with cut and construction. Volume? So last season, in those soft, slouchy pants and multitwist dresses. For fall, the clothes couldn’t be leaner. What Ghesquière retained from spring, and in fact, took further, was the lightbulb-on awareness that there’s no place like the runway for fusing artistic integrity with bottom-line punch.

He worked in a compelling palette, camel and black laced with nearly colorless pastels. The show opened with precision tailoring in narrow cashmere coats and jackets collared abundantly in fur and closed with metal toggles. Others had a military air, their authority sometimes softened by a skinny, crystal bow belt. These came with très-skinny pants that should prove favorites of the no-carbs set, in versions either plain or decorated with the metallicized trappings of Apollo chic. Ghesquière’s dresses — a two-sided glory, the first, a constructionist exercise in shape and his lone nod to strong color; the second, an ethereal union of pale shades and feathers with clean, graphic cuts.

All in all, a serious “wow” factor, especially on the heels of dull Milan. More significantly, this collection radiated the allure of high-impact commercial clothes, beautifully conceived and executed, the work of a major talent in top form. That’s something Gucci Group needs desperately. Whatever issues remain between the designer and the group, let’s hope, as Ghesquière indicated in his conversation with WWD, that the two sides will work through them. Even in a positive mind-set, he made no promises, saying, “I want to stay, but it depends on what the plans are for the house, too.” At the same time, his stubbornness is renowned, so one can assume wiggle room on both sides. But should Ghesquière take a powder, his next situation is likely but a heartbeat away, depending upon contractual restrictions. (LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has reportedly already come calling.) And at this point, Gucci Group can’t afford so harsh a gulp from its talent pool.

 

[Kimkhuu]

I really like the structured jackets and coats!

The shoes were gorgeous too:

style.com

 

[Ale]

I adore this collection such restraint and impeccable execution on tailoring the tailored pieces and fluidity with the evening wear. I especially love the dresses on Heather Marks and Isabeli. I am glad to see Liya on the runway ( where has she been?, was this an exlusive). Also Malgosia, she has not changed a bit since 99 and the details of the shoes, bags, bealts( teenie diamante bows) perfection. I hope it sells well, i see a US. vogue cover ( i hope)

 

[Ale]

i love the heather dress

 

[Alura]

Wow, he out did himself, now let's hope he will be profitable enough for the Gucci Group...

 

[hugobossdaria]

striking back

 

[LibertyRose]

It's not a bad collection but a little overpraised, I am afraid. Military coats, cigarette pants, and tailored leather have all been done better before, by no one other than Nicholas himself. I am thinking of a 00 or 01 collection that used brass buttons, a 98 or 99 show that focused on crisp white shirts and slim black pants, and the AW02 collection that opened with magnificent leather jackets.

I also think the tailoring is way too severe, even on a supposedly wearable ensemble of white turtlenecks and cigarette pants. Some noted that Roland Mouret's tailoring this season is also insanely tight, but his tailoring gives women curves; Balenciaga made women look like men. Normally I am all for looking sharp, but this looks so uncomfortable and painful, it doesn't appeal to me much.

Creatively, this wasn't a stretch. I don't think he reworked his classics at Balenciaga. He only made cheaper, simpler versions of his greatest hits. I was far more impressed by his SS05 collection when he introduced the 'liquid' pants and jackets.

 

[birdofparadise]

I'm impressed overall with the tailoring and his attention to detail. There's no doubt that this is an urban collection that slightly borders on the intellectual. The cozy winter coats in creamy winter white is for the optimistic or those who won't dodging dirty slush on the streets. What I like most is that while it bucks the easy, pretty, girly trend that has been infecting stateside collections like the black plague, he doesn't veer in the 'ugly' direction. Instead, he creates clothes that convey control, precision, and a slight sensual mystery. His coats, with all of its protective hardwear, invites you to guess at what's going on underneath. The collection is not flawless but that is what makes it interesting. The lightness of touch (which transformed Ralph Rucci from duckling to swan) will come for Nicholas and when it does, the real fun will begin.

 

[travolta]

birdofparadise, i agree with most of your observations. I do like the coats (not the fur pieces on the coast though) and it is definately appealing. i guess i'm not fully understanding your reference to ralph rucci and the lightness of touch...but i do think nicholas has a lot to offer. I have read him as the designer for the Y generation with the abstracted influence of 80's nostalgia we automatically respond to... And his earlier work was definately solid stuff. I personally enjoyed this arty period he went into...but it will be interesting to see the merging of the two...

 

[birdofparadise]

Hmm...by 'lightness' I mean that you can 'see' Nicholas' thought process in his design...as was the case with Rucci a few years ago.

Things seemed a bit forced, a bit of hand ringing and now, even though Rucci's design is perhaps more complicated than ever, there's a feeling of lightness, ease, even joy in his clothing. I would love to see that be that case at Balenciaga, some flounce, dashes of warmth, some spirit--though, to some, it may not be appropriate.

Balenciaga, after all, was known for working with luxurious, stiff fabrics with refined, simple techiques that would create a frame for the wearer. We all also know that he shut down his house, disappointed by what he considered the vulgarity of fashion trends at the time. That tempermental and headstrong spirit should, perhaps, always be alive and well at the house.

 

[softgrey]

It's not a bad collection but a little overpraised, I am afraid. Military coats, cigarette pants, and tailored leather have all been done better before, by no one other than Nicholas himself. I am thinking of a 00 or 01 collection that used brass buttons, a 98 or 99 show that focused on crisp white shirts and slim black pants, and the AW02 collection that opened with magnificent leather jackets.

I also think the tailoring is way too severe, even on a supposedly wearable ensemble of white turtlenecks and cigarette pants. Some noted that Roland Mouret's tailoring this season is also insanely tight, but his tailoring gives women curves; Balenciaga made women look like men. Normally I am all for looking sharp, but this looks so uncomfortable and painful, it doesn't appeal to me much.

Creatively, this wasn't a stretch. I don't think he reworked his classics at Balenciaga. He only made cheaper, simpler versions of his greatest hits. I was far more impressed by his SS05 collection when he introduced the 'liquid' pants and jackets.

i am thinking the same...this is not a menswear collection...women have breasts and hips...
but none of these models do...the jackets don't even have darts to allow for breasts...it's bizarre...and not what i would call flattering at all...far too severe and restrictive...i feel claustrophobic just looking at these cuts...

i really don't agree with all these rave reviews...military jackets are not exactly revolutionary...(if you'll pardon the pun>>>)

 

[SiennaInLondon]

It is just so perfect. If it didn't inspire such steely reserve I am quite sure I would weep.
Also I love the fur effects. I am so glad fashion has grown out of its silly anti-fur phase.

 

[have_une_nice_day]

Really like the collection, apart from the furs! doesn't seem to fit in!

 

[helena]

Not bad, except the terrible, michael korsy use of fur.

faust - exactly. In fact I think the whole thing looks quite Kors-ey. I seem to be the only person who thinks this is bad.

...and can someone explain how this verges on the intellectual? because of the strict tailoring - is that intellectual?

 

[macchiom]

I really love most of this collection. I just wished they would show menswear too like they did last fall.

 

[mikeijames]

I think what's problematic about this collection, however, is the undermining of that 'edgy' and artsy vibe that defined the Balenciaga look for the past eight years. This is Balenciaga gone uptown. They built that huge, ridiculous rundown boutique in Chelsea and what are they going to put in it now? Sables and diamante studded sandals? It's a little bizarre, and I think it's a really quick and sudden shift to go from spray-painted chainmail to fine furs in the space of two seasons. Though I really do think that this collection is amazing.

i agree...this collection's thoroughly uptown and i can't imagine it in the stores.

with that said, i think ghesquiere has struck gold with the collection again. he's single-handedly inserted light, color, and frivolity into a season bogged down in darkness and bleakness.