Balmain's Madonna moment
The infectious exuberance of Balmain is the card that the designer Christophe Decarnin plays. His sparkling show Sunday of hard chic with Grecian drapes was a take on the 1980s. Madonna was on the soundtrack and jackets had wide molded shoulders.
Although the designer talked backstage about "Desperately Seeking Susan," the show was not so much Madonna in trash glamour from the 1985 film as the glitter and studs of hot couture. From the first outfit of a jacket with military frogging in a glitter gulch of crystals, but worn with torn jeans and more glam slam for the shoes, the Balmain show caught a current fashion beat.
When the jeans weren't shredded, they were given treatments from artistic patches of stone wash to prints of passing clouds or stitch decoration to shape the legs. From boy looks to girly, without reducing the sparkle content, the designer sent out tutu dresses. Their tulle skirts bouncing below crystals at the waist looked fresher than the brief clingy dresses that have been the stock-in-trade of Balmain's youthful revival.
Decarnin's vision is not experimental or as a fashion leader. But his high wattage party wear, beloved by Hollywood (Milla Jovovich sat front row) has caught the current vibe of upbeat energy against the reality of a harsh world.
suzy menkes, iht.com
The infectious exuberance of Balmain is the card that the designer Christophe Decarnin plays. His sparkling show Sunday of hard chic with Grecian drapes was a take on the 1980s. Madonna was on the soundtrack and jackets had wide molded shoulders.
Although the designer talked backstage about "Desperately Seeking Susan," the show was not so much Madonna in trash glamour from the 1985 film as the glitter and studs of hot couture. From the first outfit of a jacket with military frogging in a glitter gulch of crystals, but worn with torn jeans and more glam slam for the shoes, the Balmain show caught a current fashion beat.
When the jeans weren't shredded, they were given treatments from artistic patches of stone wash to prints of passing clouds or stitch decoration to shape the legs. From boy looks to girly, without reducing the sparkle content, the designer sent out tutu dresses. Their tulle skirts bouncing below crystals at the waist looked fresher than the brief clingy dresses that have been the stock-in-trade of Balmain's youthful revival.
Decarnin's vision is not experimental or as a fashion leader. But his high wattage party wear, beloved by Hollywood (Milla Jovovich sat front row) has caught the current vibe of upbeat energy against the reality of a harsh world.
suzy menkes, iht.com
One or two of the jackets. Possibly. And some of the shoes actually looked nice.
