You know what I'm going to speak in general defense of this collection. It's the same crap different day but there is something so completely wonderful about it. The Balmain girl is just...well she's a girl I enjoy. She's one of those cigarette smoke scented, slightly drunken party girls whose skirt is too short and she's not wearing undies. She's this brazen almost unhinged creature high on money, low on class and yet irresistible. These clothes are the clothes you get sloshed in the back of a limo in - I'm never going to do that but I'm glad someone else is so I'm happy this exists. SOMEONE has to do this and now that Roberto Cavalli has gone and gotten recession conscious and faux-classy I'm more than happy that Christophe Decarnin has picked up right where he left off and provided the Kate Mosses of the world with something to have hiked up backstage at a Kills concert.
Kudos Christophe. Kudos.
Still, if Decarnin expects to rehash the same 80's vamp look again for spring 10 he'll have a wake up call as all the editors are in position to pounce.
money talks and if anyone thinks that any editor (worth her salt) in this recessionary environment will deplore a line that's ACTUALLY selling (versus the legion of designers who make a living these days by lending their clothes to celebrities and selling them at 60% off at saks), they will be sorely surprised.
we will not only see this line embraced in editorials, we'll see it thoroughly copied by high street.
money talks and if anyone thinks that any editor (worth her salt) in this recessionary environment will deplore a line that's ACTUALLY selling (versus the legion of designers who make a living these days by lending their clothes to celebrities and selling them at 60% off at saks), they will be sorely surprised.
we will not only see this line embraced in editorials, we'll see it thoroughly copied by high street.
- Sarah Mower for style.comWas it just coincidence that Christophe Decarnin showed his Balmain collection in the same room—the swimming pool at the Ritz—that Gianni Versace used for his couture spectaculars? There was certainly an almost Gianni-like gaggle of fans jostling outside, and a heated buzz of anticipation in the house for the man whose frank embrace of rock-chick bling, rounded "tennis ball"-shouldered jackets, and elaborate jeans have shot him to the position of No. 1 most copied designer in the space of two seasons. The choice of venue only added to the sense of expectation heaped on Decarnin's performance as fashion's latest appointed savior of good-time, high-sparkle, downright sexy dressing.
Decarnin certainly proved he's the leader of the disco fever he has single-handedly triggered this season. He had the shortest, tightest body dresses witnessed anywhere: smothered in Swarovski crystal, flouncing up at the shoulder, tightly bound in satin drape or quilted, chain-wrapped black leather. The cult peaked-shoulder Balmain jacket was reiterated in force: same signature shape, now manifested as a leather biker as well as a tuxedo jacket, and often paired with new drapey harem pants or skinny jean-cut black trousers. Every look was thrust into deep-cuffed suede boots with a stack of silver buckles running up the side.
All that probably threw on enough fuel to keep Balmain on fire for the next season, not just with trophy-hunting girls who can afford the red-hot prices but also with the knock-off merchants who will be laughing all the way to bank while making an easy killing with stick-on glitter and the minimum yardage of Lycra and fake leather. In that way, Decarnin deserves acknowledgement for keeping the wheels of fast fashion turning. Exactly how far it's going to go is open to question, though. By halfway through the show, Decarnin's looks—the jacket, pant, and drapey T-shirt; the minuscule dress; and the half-train gown—were already into heavy rotation. If he's really going to win a place as the Versace of tomorrow, he'll have to come up with more than that next season.
- Cathy Horyn for the NYTBalmain drew a crowd on Thursday at the Ritz. The French dearly love Christophe Decarnin’s cool jackets and sexy pants (now harem-style with slits up the front), but to an American, at least, listening to the disco remix — well, it’s as if a woman has stepped into a pail of glitter on her way to see “Dancing With the Stars.” Oops!
Suzy Menkes for the IHTPARIS — The covered-over swimming pool at the Ritz hotel was the fashion territory of the lateGianni Versace. So it made a fitting runway for the 1980s redux atBalmain's show on Thursday.
With pagoda shoulders, sparkling fabrics, quilted leather and metal studs, not to mention hunks of crystal, the designer Christophe Decarnin's show looked very familiar - not least because new ideas were as short as the models' brief, buttock-grazing hemlines.
As Diana Ross, the Jackson Five and Sister Sledge ramped up the soundtrack, the theme was "Versace takes a trip" - short skirts thrusting from cut-away long gowns and all the metal mesh and silvered chains that the earlier era once owned. Even the cobalt blue, the single stand-out color among black or white, had an '80s edge.
The Balmain show was as disco as it was frisky and its appeal was simple: sexy chic. Or should that be "sexy chick" because, with their messy hair and bare legs above faintly fetishistic boots, this was not about Parisian glamour but a global hard-partying look.
The clothes are what are vulgarly known as "result" dressing. And the result is certainly wondrous for Balmain, which has gone from being fusty to feisty, making Decarnin the unlikely hero of the Euro-trash set. New insertions were a one-shoulder frill, and harem pants open at the front as a window on the legs. There was even a hint of sportswear in a sparkle-striped boyfriend sweater and the glittering white cardigan and T-shirt that closed the show.
Since every other house copies his approach, Decarnin will have to find a way to move Balmain forward. But for now he remains, at this sobering-up moment, the last designer to leave the party.
Does this really sell that well??
I soemhow cannot believe it. I mean, if these were moderately priced clothes, or like any regular Givenchy/Lanvin piece, I would say 'yeah, people have horrendous taste, and yet they want to also look sl*tty, I can see someone picking this hideousness over Lanvin..." but for 25,000 dollars or euros or whatever???????
That is crazy. Go buy a Birkin or two. Go buy a pair of Cartier drop earrrings. Those scream 'money' much louder, if that is the objective in motion here.
oh?
- Sarah Mower for style.com
- Cathy Horyn for the NYT
Suzy Menkes for the IHT
Already understood Mike. But if selling was all it took to get an editor to appreciate a label we'd see much worse in our fashion magazines.