Biba

credit: WWD

Published: Thursday, March 02, 2006

Biba's Back


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Biba, that hot British boutique label from the swinging Sixties and early Seventies, introduced its first ready-to-wear collection here this week. But while the original brand produced lines made from cheap and cheerful fabrics, this comeback collection, designed by Bella Freud, is being repositioned on a luxury level — with elevated price tags to match. Retail prices in the U.S. will range from about $180 for a sweater to a mighty $3,300 for a coat.

Inspired by founder Barbara Hulanicki's creations, retro looks take a jolly jaunt across the decades, from a Twenties-style cocktail dress and muskrat and angora coat, to a Marlene Dietrich-style pantsuit and silk blouse with billowing sleeves. For those in the mood for fun, cheeky knits and Twiggy-style Lurex metallic minidresses come lifted straight out of Sixties London, while a satin halter-neck jumpsuit looks destined for the disco. The line also features new versions of iconic archive prints, such as paisley and shell-shape swirls, either enlarged or worked in new colors.

The brand's accessories line, introduced for spring, has grown to accommodate a better-heeled, 21st-century Biba girl — featuring golden costume jewelry priced around $350, cute Lurex metallic snoods for $160 or chunky patent leather and metallic B-clasped belts for $250. Shoes, ranging from $350 to $1,000, remain cutely clompy, with platform styles running the gamut from gold to laser-cut to Art Nouveau styles. But what could turn out to be bestsellers are the brand's rainbow palette of stretch suede boots and its eel-skin line, featuring mary janes with golden B buckles.

"We're paying homage to the brand, but have fine-tuned its designs using more luxurious fabrics," says Michael Pearce, chief executive and creative director of the brand, who sees gold in Biba's heritage alone.
 
Ugh...I don't think they should have created Biba again. It's a legend of its times.
 
There was an article on this and the new faces behind it in a UK newspaper supplement the other day...I'll try and find it and post it.
 
here is biography of Barbara Hulanicki from her site:


Born in Poland, but raised in England, Barbara Hulanicki began her career in Fashion in the early 1960's working as a freelance fashion illustrator covering all the important fashion collections for the major publications of the day, including Women's Wear Daily, British Vogue, the Times, the Observer and the Sunday Times. In 1964 she founded, with her late husband, Stephen Fitz-Simon, the boutique BIBA, beginning as a small mail-order business featured in the fashion columns of newspapers such as the DAILY MIRROR.
The Biba success story is worthy of a Hollywood movie: a husband and wife, Barbara Hulanicki and her partner, Stephen Fitz-Simon, go into business together against the advice of those around them. After a few false starts and refusing to give up, their last-ditched attempt -- a pink gingham dress with a round hole in the back and a matching head scarf -- strikes a chord with the public and sells thousands of units, allowing them to open a store which becomes an icon of hip 60's and 70's London. It becomes a hangout for artists, film stars and rock musicians, including Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones, David Bowie and Marianne Faithful among the regulars. The first Biba store was a small Chemist's shop in Abingdon Road, but by the time Biba's doors closed in 1976 it had evolved into an elaborate 5-story Art Deco department store with a restaurant and a roof garden overlooking High Street Kensington. The avant-garde BIBA cosmetics brand was being sold in 33 countries across the globe.
Biba finally closed its doors in 1976, a victim of corporate raiding before the term had even entered the business vernacular. Hulanicki continued to work in Fashion, designing for such fashion greats as Fiorucci and Cacharel and for twelve years, from 1980 to 1992, designed a successful line of children's wear, MINIROCK, licensed to the Japanese market.
In 1980, she returned to the UK from living in glamorous Brazil to open a series of clothing boutiques and start a make-up line, all under her own name. From 1980 to 1987, she dabbled in fashion photography for the London Evening Standard and returned briefly to fashion illustration to draw Sarah Ferguson's wedding dress for the London newspapers. In 1983 she wrote her memoirs in the book FROM A TO BIBA, which was published by Hutchinson's. In 1987 she arrived in Miami Beach where she reinvented herself yet again as a designer of interiors and exteriors, single-handedly reconceiving Miami Beach's then re-emerging Art Deco District. Her projects began with Woody's on the Beach, which she designed in 1987 for Ron Wood of the Rolling Stones. She created a series of restaurants, night clubs and super-clubs, including Who's in the Grove, Sempers, Match Club and Bolero Restaurant. From 1992 to 1997 she worked for Gloria and Emilio Estefan designing the interiors for their personal recording studios, the interiors of the Cardozo Hotel on Ocean Drive, their private home on Star Island, costumes for the music video "Mi Buen Amor", as well as consulting on BONGO, the Estefan's restaurant project in Disney World, Orlando, with the Architectonica Group.
From 1990 to the present, Hulanicki has perhaps had the most impact on Miami Beach through her work for Chris Blackwell and his Island Outpost Group. She has twice reconceived the MARLIN Hotel, on Collins Avenue, as well as the CAVALIER Hotel, Ocean Drive, the LESLIE Hotel, Ocean drive, The NETHERLANDS building, Ocean Drive, and now the KENT on Collins Avenue. Other Caribbean properties she has designed for Blackwell include the COMPASS POINT Hotel and beach resort in Nassau, Bahamas - which is prominently featured in all the Bahamian Tourist Board television commercials - the PINK SANDS resort on Harbor Island, Bahamas. In 1993 Hulanicki won an award from the American Institute of Architects for her work on the NETHERLANDS, as well as an award from an association of Florida Architects.
Hulanicki's latest project is the Island life Ministore, located in the heart of Miami Beach on Ocean Drive. This unique shop was renovated completely by Hulanicki at owner Chris Blackwell's request. Coined as "tropical lux," this lifestyle store contains perhaps the most extensive collection of gift items, music and film, jewelry and accessories from around the world. It also boasts men's, women's and children's apparel custom colored and designed by Hulanicki herself. Blackwell's enterprises, Palm Pictures and Palm Music, are featured there as well.
Perhaps the crowning achievement of Hulanicki's impact can be witnessed in the opening of the Hollywood hit movie "The Birdcage". A sweeping helicopter shot flows over the waves to zero in on the primary location for the film, the Cleveland Hotel on Ocean Drive which is flanked by no less than four Hulanicki-designed buildings - the Leslie, the Cardozo, the Cavalier and the Netherlands.
Additionally, throughout her career, Hulanicki has designed costumes for several stage and film productions, including clothing for Cathy McGowan on the influential live TV rock show "READY STEADY GO" (1964), outfits for Julie Christie in "DARLING" (1965), costumes for old friend and Biba model Twiggy for "CAPTAIN BEAKY" in London's West End and her Royal Command Performance in 1976.


www.barbarahulanickidesign.com
 
i just found this thread! yey! thank you softgrey!

i love her. so glad it is up and going again. i found a Biba trenchcoat a while ago. so yummy. and this~

her original store, so lovely...
biba.jpg
 
wanted to add...

credit is thebibaexperience.com

and it seems the store caused just as much excitement as the clothes. if you google it there is tons written about it. and it was used in the movie Brazil as an interior. too nice.
 
See all those feathers at the store? That's something puzzled me ... it gave some freedom to customers to personalize ... I can imagine the ostrich feathers and the beautiful yeti jackets that cud be bought there!
 
my auntie has a huge collection of biba she told me her and her friends used to go to the shop on the kings road and just nick everything :lol: apparantly everyone was doing this. the boots are amaizing they're sooo skinny like for skinny calves:heart:

btw i dont support stealing ^_^
 
^ that was a huge problem for Biba, it was shoplifter's paradise...the dim lighting, the clothing racks, etc...you can figure out the rest:( apparently it was part of the reason they closed, although 'stock control issues' are aparetnly to blame..i'm assuming they mean a problem with the clothes being delivered or made, still i don't know exactly why the business was shut down..or maybe it was conflict of interest when biba was bought (i believe someone did accquire it in the 70's)

...anyways, what i really wanted to say was the fact that i'm very upset by this 'ressurected' biba. $1000 for shoes?! that's more expensive than chloe. that's not the original concept, it's not affordable anymore. at least make it affordable like club monaco, that way quaity and style don't suffer too much. i feel like i've been robbed of something!

this is very very sad...*thumbs down*
 
Pastry said:
...anyways, what i really wanted to say was the fact that i'm very upset by this 'ressurected' biba. $1000 for shoes?! that's more expensive than chloe. that's not the original concept, it's not affordable anymore. at least make it affordable like club monaco, that way quaity and style don't suffer too much. i feel like i've been robbed of something!

this is very very sad...*thumbs down*

i agree :(
 
that photo from the boutique....so chic, so cool. I wish there were more boutiques that looked like that.

I guess I've also gotten into Biba recently (I was checking out their new shoe line yesterday) as a result with my recent obsession with all things glam, 70's and tacky. There was a pair of silver glitter covered pumps with a chunky heel and platform that are just adorable, so much fun.
 
Wow i cant believe Biba is back, its an intersting concept with Bella Freud as her designs are pretty crazy, definetly worth a look. But perhaps they should have left it alone, it really does seem that anything that was sucessful we have to bring back and make a bunch of money in the mean time. That grey dress on the left in post 61 is gorgeous...
 
I heard the new BIBA line shoes are fabulous! They are remaking the cute minnie mouse 40's style plats with adorable prints. I was just talking to an older friend of mine (male) who grew up in London and he told me when he was a young teen he hung out there all the time. He said it was the coolest store with the most dazzling displays and windows. He is the same friend of mine who was lucky enough to see Joy Division play back in the 70s
 
i always loved this look ( except for the wide leg pants never been a fan ) and the singer for goldfrapp really does it justice, i had been aware of it before but recently became obsessed when i saw allison goldfrapps makeup and hair and decided her beauty style was good for me ( i'm black with an afro and dollface so i think i can pull it off ), i love that the look is very influenced by 30s glam with a rock n roll meets disco flavor
 
I bought a beautiful white Biba jumpsuit at Rellik in London, they have a few items designed by Biba. Where will the new Biba collection be sold?
 
I just saw a good collection of the shoes in Saks & Bob Ellis in Atlanta. Beautiful designs!
 
this is the same biba that anna wintour used to work as a shopgirl prior to joining bazaar? the clothes in the s/s 07 doesn't look so chic though....
 

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