Bottega Veneta S/S 2026 Milan

[Creative]

Celine by Phoebe Philo is this you? 🥸

It’s 2025. In three months it will be 2026. At this point I’m afraid I’m gonna turn 70 and still be commenting Phoebe Philo is this you? in every thread.

Dear lord. Gimme a rest.

Also, how many looks are there? Felt like a thousand. Learn how to edit my dear.

 

[yslforever]

That's the most uninspiring and uninspired collection of the day. Super tall and super slender models are literally drowned in fabrics to the point they look like used tissues. How are we mere mortals supposed to look in that.
The coat on Mariacarla is 3 sizes too big. That is so dated last decade ...
Plus she managed to suck all the "fun" Blazy instilled in the brand.

 

[Fiercification]

I had very low expectations and honestly given that, I thought this was quite good in places. Trotter is obviously following in Blazy's path very faithfully based on this debut, but it feels a little less over ambitious.

Still some very clunky looks and pairings in places, too many oversized proportions, especially with the trenches (beyond tired of this trend now) and generally all the pieces suffer from over styling. I do like how she approached the fringe for the most part and I find Awar's look a standout. Some good leather pieces as well although my biggest gripes are how forgettable the bags are and how inconsistent the mens' looks were.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I thoroughly enjoy the use of brighter colours with the fringing/fur here. It's a joy to see them in motion and the colours really vibrate. And such an alien looking texture I love it.

The rest I find a snooze. It's not horrible, it's serviceable. For a S/S collection, it's far too boxy and heavy handed with the fabrics, with the rest of the collection being in such bland muted shades most of the looks come across as oversized Pantone picked paint swatches. It is a fine debut, but I'd like to something leaner from BV. Blazy overwhelmed the body A LOT when he was there so it would have been nice to see her take a more sensuous pathway but alas not. If she were to do that from the get go that may have been a shock to the clientele so who knows. Maybe next season...

 

[jeanclaude]

She must be awarded the Record Guinness for the smallest moodboard for a fashion collection ever:

+

hearstapps.com
theleathercrafter.wordpress.com

 

[swss]

Horrible Jil sander past years got rebirth….

 

[TaylorBinque]

I don't mind the textures. An ambitious attempt but the fitting and silhouettes though. Also I don't like the presentation here. It felt so cold.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

I actually really love the techniques but for the love of god we have got to move on from the oversized looks.

 

[Kennnnn]

A strange collection. Some of the silk (?) dresses and colours reminded me of Tomas Maier's work, but most else was recycled old Céline. There are some interesting shapes and textures, but it lacks character and above all, there is no charm.

What i enjoyed most about Blazy's BV was that a lot of it was believable - i think of Kate Moss in jeans, a tank top and a flannel shirt (even if everything is leather trompe l'oeil). You could see this person walking down the street.

I actually like the car-wash skirts. They are interesting and quite original. But they don't mesh with the rest of the show. And the entire collection is much too heavy for spring/summer.

 

[Thefrenchy]

There's no emotion or point of view to anything that she has put on the runway. Everything felt like it was somehow referencing her predecessors. Shoes were dreadful, and most importantly. where are "real" desirable the bags? Your brand is barely selling any rtw and we barely see a proper bag apart from a bunch of slouchy mess.

She should've really put some work on the set design because that was dry as hell.

Casting was particularly weak.

 

[Thefrenchy]

^ Adding a note because I cant edit my post anymore: the menswear just vanished.

 

[Delleone]

URGH! Bottegy Vee makes me wish that I was stupidly, ridiculously, insanely rich.

 

[eugenius]

Does anybody want to set it off with me and rob a few banks to afford this? This is fantastic!

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

There's no emotion or point of view to anything that she has put on the runway. Everything felt like it was somehow referencing her predecessors. Shoes were dreadful, and most importantly. where are "real" desirable the bags? Your brand is barely selling any rtw and we barely see a proper bag apart from a bunch of slouchy mess.

She should've really put some work on the set design because that was dry as hell.

Casting was particularly weak.

Why do you think casting was weak???

We had all the current big gurls from Anok Yai to Awar Odhiang. Also we had Mariacarla Boscono. So I think casting was great.

 

[FashioNarrating]

I see y'all mentioning Philo, but these looks don't really conjure her vibe to me Other than her own line being more idiosyncratic and specific than her late Céline, Phoebe's collections could/can never be summarized by saying "everything oversized, clean, aiming to be artisanally impressive" which is the case here. It's hardly bad (except for those clogs), but it's definitely not an approach that excites me personally because we got so much of it from Blazy, and now Trotter seems to be doing a tamer version of it that should likely keep his fans + bring back some of the clients from the Maier years. If it goes like that, I see them losing a chunk of buyers and public attention that Daniel Lee brought them, because this doesn't have the punch his era had from the start, not to mention the !t accessories.
Funnily, I liked Louise's work the best at Joseph, where she turned an in-house line into one of the highlights of LFW at the time. As the brands she works for get bigger in terms of fashion relevance, her ideas seem to drown a bit under the swathes of fabric and the growing expectations.

 

[marines]

 

[tourbillions]

just shows how overworked they are and how forcing the intrecciato in everything make them so stiff and badly structured.

 

[andrew]

haven't seen leather undies since helmut lang back in the late 90s

 

[jeanclaude]

The textures here reminded me of:

calmahouse.com
todolimpiezaonline.com

 

[jeanclaude]

imgflip.com