Dazed & Confused: What have been the influences for the pre-collection and for this year's spring/summer collection?
Christopher Bailey: The pre-collections set the mood, look and feel for the men's and women's shows, and crystallize our statement for the season. For spring/summer 2008, we looked to our history as a brand, and saluted the contradictions between our military and sporting references (we launched Burberry Sport in September this year which centered around ski-wear, inspired by the Burberry history of providing clothing to arctic explorers like Shackleton) and in womenswear, the girlish romanticism that has become part of our signature remained, but with an edge - continuing from the tougher, darker girl we unleashed last autumn/winter.
D&C: Colour has dominated both pre-collection and mainline SS08, and seems to be something you relish. Can you elucidate upon this passion?
CB: Where I have used bright and bold colour it has often come from the technical/sportswear style pieces such as nylon zip jackets, running pants, sneakers, neoprene trench coats etc. It's an easier and more natural way of wearing colour when it feels more functional and sport/outdoors inspired. We regularly use colour in our outerwear as block colours, in strong 'off' primary shades such as red, blue and green, again reflecting this functionality.
D&C: Why do you think colour is so relevant this season?
CB: I can only speak for our collection, but to me it felt right to use these strong colours that created and interesting contrast with the more muted colours textures; nude and pale greys contrast beautifully with turquoise and fuchsia - voiles and tulles against neoprenes and taffetas, with some colours and fabrics loosely inspired by our coastal towns in Britain, and water sports like surf and scuba.
D&C: What is the mood this season for Burberry?
CB: I named the women's collection for the first time. I had a very clear vision of who this woman was and where she was going, I called her the the 'Luxury Warrior'. She's a continuation of the strong, studded, belted woman from winter, this English rose that grew thorns. The spring woman is just as spiky; she has this kind of Celtic, tribal feel. The original Burberry girl is still there, but she's slightly rougher around the edges.
D&C: Keeping with the tradition of Burberry always seems to be important. What are the key elements for Burberry Prorsum this season?
CB: Burberry Prorsum is very important because it's what people see from the runway shows, and so it really sets the tone for all the things that we design. Shoes, bags and jewellery have been a focal point this season, and we've created a more extensive range than ever before - accessories have featured in every look in some way.
D&C: The Burberry check is one of the most widely copied patterns in the world. Do you think that is a bad thing?
CB: The Burberry check is a strong, recognisable signature of Burberry around the world, and its identity reflects the traditions, classicism and eccentricities of the British culture. I love the classic colours of black, tan and white, all offset with a sharp red. It's something we are proud of and that we re-work in new ways. But, it has never been the sole focus of the brand, rather it is another facet of this incredible jewel that is Burberry. When something is seen as great and successful it is often copied - and I think that's a compliment.
D&C: How do you think Burberry has distanced itself from its previous associations?
CB: Burberry has a wonderfully rich culture, and history spanning 151 years. We would never try to erase any of that incredible history, but rather look at ways of reinventing these amazing style staples that exist in our archives, and to build on the foundations of this iconic history.
D&C: What do you think makes the Burberry brand 'cult'?
CB: Burberry has always been a real British institution to me. I come from Yorkshire and, as a young boy, Burberry was (and still is!) a British icon - something so special and tangible. Burberry is a part of the vocabulary that is embedded in the culture and DNA of Great Britain - like Big Ben, The Houses of Parliament and Piccadilly Circus. It's up there with the best of them, and that's what gives Burberry 'cult' status.
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