Burberry S/S 2021 London

[vogue28]

 

[Benn98]

Whatever Hannah Motler is wearing looks interesting, and I like the colour scheme so far but it's like yet another Tisci 'construction' collection. Hardly original.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Riccardo Tisci on August: "I've designed the whole collection by myself. Everything came out from my gut, without any interference. I think we all need less but better quality".

Also Riccardo Tisci today: Sends out a awful livestream with a cringey performance. The collection is 70+ looks of absolutely nothing and it looks exactly to his Givenchy collections.

Just...stop lying us shamelessly.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[SRank]

This is his most Givenchy-esque collection of his tenure at Burberry. It's a shame that the period evoked here isn't the best lol

 

[SophiaVB]

I don't mind a couple of the trench coats... that's all I have. The colors are hideous.

 

[liberty33r1b]

the whole thing looked like a funeral procession.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Hmm I wonder what sort of word vomit BoF and Vogue reviewers will try to defend this with lol.

The prints have got to go.

 

[YohjiAddict]

The cropped trenchcoats and the color palette are nice but the eveningwear couldn't be more low effort.

Some really awful prints too but luckily they were not used in many looks.

 

[bc collector]

This is the proof that, beyond his first BCBG looks from his first collections (which at least were a departure from his previous Givenchy mood), Tisci has yet to come up with a convincing formula to give new relevance to this brand (to which, I'm more and more convinced, he does not belong).
Everything here reeks of deja-vu, the details and cuts are gimmicky to the utmost degree...
Really, Riccardo, what were you thinking when you ditched Versace for this?

 

[Lola701]

I love Riccardo, I will always support him and buy his clothes but I have to admit now that I’m ready for him to leave Burberry.
I’m happy to see him express his creativity but clearly, Burberry is not the house of his ambition!

This is the most complicated show I’ve ever seen. I love the fact that it was very cohesive and not the two audiences/1 show situation but it was just too complicated for a house like Burberry.

There are some fabulous pieces in the DNA of Riccardo and I like the idea of a house like Burberry being the mirror of the creativity of London but it’s just too extreme, very much international but not very « english ». I think he misses Couture!

When he said that he « designed all by himself », I was naive enough to believe that we would get something effortless, more commercial, more straight to the point. He should reference his early days at Givenchy when just a shirt and a pant were enough to get the message.

All I see is a pile a product fighting against a layer of very strong pieces...

Burberry needs a very commercial designer...Clare Waight Keller!

 

[dior_couture1245]

Riccardo Tisci on August: "I've designed the whole collection by myself. Everything came out from my gut, without any interference. I think we all need less but better quality".

Also Riccardo Tisci today: Sends out a awful livestream with a cringey performance. The collection is 70+ looks of absolutely nothing and it looks exactly to his Givenchy collections.

Just...stop lying us shamelessly.

Exactly. He goes on to talk about how Galliano and McQueen did such concise, tight, yet emotional and impactful shows and how he wants to bring that back. What a joke he is.

It's no secret I HATE his Burberry. He's stripped this brand of all of its personality and idiosyncrasies and British-ness and turned it into this cheap nightmare of absolutely useless corporate clothes. A total disaster. His misery and contempt for this company is obvious. He may love the paycheck, but he clearly hates Burberry.

 

[Lola701]

His misery and contempt for this company is obvious. He may love the paycheck, but he clearly hates Burberry.

I don’t think he hates Burberry. I just think the strategy was doomed from the beginning.
Gobbetti comes from LVMH and believe he could duplicate the LVMH formula at Burberry by going very High Fashion, trying to have an It-bag and all the others strategies used at every big luxury brands.

The problem is that the strategy clashed with the reality of the business and of the industry from the moment Riccardo took over! Bailey killed his legacy by trying to do streetwear.
Tisci and Gobbetti believed doing streetwear and formalwear was enough but the vision wasn’t focused from the start.

Tbh, I enjoy the formalwear but I have the feeling people are really buying the streetwear and that’s maybe because it is stronger in terms of POV.

The paycheck is obviously good as you said but unfortunately Riccardo, unlike Nicolas, hasn’t found a way to adapt his creativity to the corporate pragmatism of a house like Burberry.

 

[jeanclaude]

The "Swim with the great Burberry at your own risk" shark logo feels totally WTF! There are some looks which literally made me wonder if I was looking at a Gvasalia collection instead of a Tisci one.

The forest setting is totally suitable here, because Tisci is totally lost!

And by the way, the knotted breast panel on green dress from look 17 is an exact copy from early 80s (if my mind doesn´t fail about the date here) Vivienne Westwood.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Ditch the menswear, edit way more the looks, a lighter hand on the styling = a very nice collection but this is not the case. I love Riccardo. That's because of him I registered here with this pseudo, his downfall years after years is painful to me.

 

[Lola701]

Ditch the menswear, edit way more the looks, a lighter hand on the styling = a very nice collection but this is not the case. I love Riccardo. That's because of him I registered here with this pseudo, his downfall years after years is painful to me.

Keep faith...You can only wait for his next move (That's the only thing we can hold on to when it comes to him and Nicolas).

 

[WAVES]

it’s very Riccardo Tisci, reminds indeed of Givenchy A LOT but that was also Riccardo...

I have always loved his designs (his collections for Givenchy were amazing) and when I ‘heard’ the rumours (right here at TFS) that he was going to Versace I thought ‘he’s not sexy enough’. and then he ended up at Burberry... what I liked the most about his previous collections at Burberry were all the new takes on the trench coat, all the beiges and the golds - classy and elegant whereas the sporty and romantic seemed out of place, but even that was also Riccardo.

sometimes I wish big corporations like Kering, Richemont and LVMH would support more designers instead of allocating them into other brands!
why can’t we have new brands? Tisci by Riccardo Tisci, Ghesquière by Nicholas Ghesquière and so on...?

I do like the collection and I wish there were more ‘nightwear’ pieces but nothing feels very new, apart from a catchy colour palette.

 

[Yasouss]

Not sure about the menswear but I love some of the women coats.

This is the most he has been lost at Burberry and I feel because his own creativity clashes with the Burberry brand. He may not be everyone's taste, but he has such a distinct voice and style that you can recognize a lot of designs, sadly, they just don't work here for Burberry