Calvin Klein Collection S/S 2026 New York

[Frederic01]

Louise is a fa better and stronger designer…

Is she though? I see Phoebe-Philo-Lite in everything both of them do...


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[Xone]

Today D feature an interview with her…it was very funny…SNL funny:: and they thougth this was the right quote to highlight:

 

[Creative]

Talent doesn’t exist anymore. And if it exists, it is not working in fashion at the moment or at least not in a visible position.

 

[Lola701]

Is she though? I see Phoebe-Philo-Lite in everything both of them do...


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I think so. I liked her Joseph, I adored her Lacoste. I wasn’t a fan of what she did at Carven but I take that column dress on Julianne over whatever the Calvin girl did.

Let’s say that she makes better Phoebe-lite if you want.

 

[perhydrol]

I have the impression that Leoni tries very hard to be bigger than the brand, but for obvious reasons, it's a futile attempt. While her debut was pretty much bland and inoffensive, at least it had some hints of what Calvin Klein should stand for. This collection is just extremely disjoined and quite questionable conceptually. It's actually very close to the Proenza Schouler disaster in the sense that I don't really see who could be interested in any of this.

I echo the sentiments that the Collection line will be phased out (again) sooner than later. It should cast the shadow over the rest of the brand, and serve as its very essence. I can't see it happening here, and definitely not with this creative director.

 

[disco54]

Who is the target customer for this sh!t?? Celine for Teletubbies ??

 

[TurkicMongol]

now luke and lucie meier have a competitor in addition to the new one at bottega!

 

[Thefrenchy]

Louise is a fa better and stronger designer…

Chère Lola, just so you wait... I will be curious to know if you maintain that statement when you see what's about to come out...

Back on topic - I don't know why they insist on reviving these brands with these random people. No disrespect to her, (or to Tumblr's Peter Do if you think of what happened recently to HL) but while people respect the legacy of these brands, no one gives a damn. The market is oversaturated, their archive pieces are still vastly available on the second-hand market (and 1000000 times still more exciting that whatever these revivals are offering), why "come back" -- at all but let alone with -- with people no one cares for? Bring a respected name back from their hidden villa and already the interest will be here. Then of course they'll have to switch it up, but at least people will be curious and give them the benefit of the doubt. Now we're in a sea of nameless people who, on top of giving us the bare minimum (if not a disaster), will be quick to be forgotten because they themselves have no legacy in the industry. Yet they sit at some houses that shaped the industry.

I wish that person well, but 2 shows in and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that this won't last.

 

[Xone]

I need to laugh at this…im sorry

 

[Kanzai]

Cate Holstein (Khaite) is one of the very few designers that know how to rip-off Phoebe, I would root for her any day over this CK person and that new BV designer.

 

[aa2005]

I need to laugh at this…im sorry

Pom poms are not a code of Calvin or continuing heritage, good god where have we ended up in this fashion timeline. You really do have to laugh because otherwise I’m screaming into a pillow with rage.

 

[philophile]

Cate Holstein (Khaite) is one of the very few designers that know how to rip-off Phoebe, I would root for her any day over this CK person and that new BV designer.

Even if Khaite's overall marketing image does remind one of Phoebe's Céline, I wouldn't call her a downright 'rip-off'. I've followed closely the brand for many years and I think Cate is doing her own thing most of the time. Admittedly, she is inspired by Philo (she has in fact stated it in interviews), but it's more about the concept of designing a playful and feminine kind of minimalism rather than copying directly ideas and elements from her. Philo is simply the figurehead of a specific kind of design style, but that doesn't mean that everyone who participates in it is directly copying. I think you can always find a universe of new ideas in that direction which Phoebe never thought of.

 

[LadyJunon]

^Even though I've made conscious efforts to like Fforme over time in vain , it's true: their collection this season does look more like Calvin Klein than this. However, it's a very generic brand doing things many now defunct independent smaller brands already did last decade and they were much better at it. It's sad that so many independent designers that were actually doing decent things in the past have been weeded out to give space to new and extremely mediocre and bland, generic brands that have made it to the top (brands like Róhe Frames, Fforme, etc).

This is a disaster and I honestly think that there are only a handful of people out there who can really create playful minimalism right (Phoebe being one of them, of course). Louise Trotter definitely ain't it either. The only brands doing it right nowadays are A.W.A.K.E. Mode, Oude Waag, (sometimes) Khaite and I find Ashlyn New York to be doing really interesting things recently (not such a big fan of their SS26 collection, though). Moreover, believe it or not, Pieter Mulier is also sometimes extremely good at it (when he's not designing condoms).

Designing playful minimalism requires a very specific talent to tastefully and gracefully play with clean lines, shapes, proportions, whilst never losing track of the female/human form, a sense of balance, and sex allure. It's sort of like being good at designing beautiful and graceful, interesting architecture, except that it's for the body, and it should never lose track of its core and function.

I think that the Philo-to-Hedi shift at Celine did a lot of damage to minimalist fashion in womenswear, because it led to a lot of brands fighting to fill that hole, discarding their own identities in the process. The issue, however, is that fashion always exist in a sociocultural context. Philo's Celine existed in a certain context at the tail end of the hyperfeminine look of the 00s, lots of the current minimalist guard exists in the context of their look already being the standard of "tasteful fashion".

That said, there are designers who are making their own ideal of minimalism:
- Phoebe Philo, is the blueprint, but she's somewhat revamping her look with her eponymous label. It's more openly sexy and there's almost an animalistic feel to her recent work
- Nicolas di Felice (Courreges) and Pieter Mulier (Alaia) lean more into the architectural and avant-garde with a heavier focus on silhouette than decoration
- Natalia Alarvedian (A.W.A.K.E. Mode) leans even harder into the avant-garde aspect, due to her independence
- Cate Holstein (Khaite) is more conventional, but her moody romantic YSL-esque branding is a really big differentiator from the typical minimalist canon. I appreciate her collections a lot.

 

[LadyJunon]

Even if Khaite's overall marketing image does remind one of Phoebe's Céline, I wouldn't call her a downright 'rip-off'. I've followed closely the brand for many years and I think Cate is doing her own thing most of the time. Admittedly, she is inspired by Philo (she has in fact stated it in interviews), but it's more about the concept of designing a playful and feminine kind of minimalism rather than copying directly ideas and elements from her. Philo is simply the figurehead of a specific kind of design style, but that doesn't mean that everyone who participates in it is directly copying. I think you can always find a universe of new ideas in that direction which Phoebe never thought of.

The thing about Khaite is that Philo isn't her only influence. Philo's female-gaze practicality is there, but there's also the romanticism of classical Saint Laurent, the gritty feel of Slimane's work and the straightforward sensuality of Donna Karan.

 

[Norden]

Who is she even designing for? Did this person move to a farm and eschew sex, life and fun? What an absolute joyless mess of a collection.

 

[MModa]

Interesting details from Klein's underwear.

Source: nytimes.com

 

[Kanzai]

Poor Calvin Klein the man, just leave him alone. Why even invite him to observe these? Do they think it’s some kind of respect? At least that Lallo guy never dragged Mr. Valentino to his shows.

Edit: I don't know if he was there or not =))) but still feel bad for him.

 

[andrew]

Why even invite him to observe these?

where else is he gonna boyfriend shop?

 

[tourbillions]

they need to leave rtw and just focus on their underwear... isnt andrew christian going out off business? calvin klein can fill that gap with underwear shows filled with jacked gays.

 

[Blaiseybabey]

I smell a whiff of Raf’s spring summer 2018 collection for the brand