Calvin Klein S/S 10 New York

[gius]

another review
this time by WWD

Calvin Klein RTW Spring 2010

Artsy sportif — it’s a genre both difficult to pull off and savvy, especially right now, as fashion struggles with the notion of reconciling casual living with high-end chic. It’s the genre Francisco Costa has claimed for his own and continues to refine. The Calvin Klein collection Costa showed on Thursday was a strong effort based on the house’s spring 1994 collection, the one that introduced Kate Moss as house muse. “Calvin did all those layered T-shirts. It was sporty and relaxed,” Costa said the day before his show. “This is my take, for now.”

Unlike the last two seasons in which he displayed a futuristic bent, Costa’s spring “now” played into the natural trend that emerged this week. Thus, he crossed the ease of that early T-shirt-based collection with fabrics inspired by the basket work of artist Ferne Jacobs. He cut almost everything not from basket weaves, per se, but from highly textured fabrics with an innate rumple factor. A process called “needle punching” created the newfangled seersucker of a puff-sleeve dress; crushed pleats freshened an otherwise classic tank.

Elsewhere, he washed silks and mohair for that rough-hewn feeling, its rumples creating an undone peplum effect on jackets tossed on over skirts and pants. Along the way, he kept to an almost all-neutral palette, digressing infrequently to taupe and gray mixes for graphic interest and to a delightful quartet of rumpled dresses in strong pastels.

Much of the collection did indeed have the ease of T-shirt dressing. However, sometimes Costa’s more artistic flourishes got the better of him — the asymmetric, circular seaming sometimes deposited on a girl’s hip what looked like a deflated beach ball in search of an air pump. For the most part, however, Costa kept the overzealous artistry in check, to impressive effect.

 

[thiago:)]

I was like this when I saw this collection
Very good! The way he works with architectural clothes is fantastic.

 

[adorefaith]

i love what francisco does at calvin klein.. he has such a sense of what works, i don't know, there is something so consistent and seamless in what he does, without being predictable or too safe. this is another example.. it's just beautiful, perfectly beautiful, the best of new york imo.

 

[gb_32]

i am totally in love with dress 4th in #71

 

[Filipe]

 

[Mafiosa]

^thanks for the vid!

 

[mariska]

i like this, every piece is simple and yet interesting. Beautiful collection!

 

[wednesdays child]

I love this collection too, my favourite peice is the yellow dress!

 

[Flashbang]

I like what they did to their models face and skin. They're glowing and beautiful.

 

[JuiceMajor]

The more I see this...the more I like it. Shame about the shoes though!

 

[2Nova]

I am not wowed but you can't dislike calvin klein the collections are always so classic, soft and lovely to look at. Plus the textures in this collection are lovely! <3 well done

 

[-AmericanDreamer]

After viewing the collection again, I don't fully love it.
However, some pieces are just so spot on and refreshing to see. I like the jackets, the ones on Nastasia and Constance especially. I just want to maybe see less of the little dresses, and more of the other garments. It's still very nice though, there's something very sweet and delicate about a lot of the pieces.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Could someone please post HQ photos of this collection?
In the video on style.com Costa was describing one of the coats as being a silk/cashmere/nylon/wool/etc mix - I'd love to see in detail.