Carol Christian Poell #1

[runner]

besides the reasons he uses tapes already mentioned here and there,
with unlined blazers, he wants to make tapes perform a little padding(?) function.
also the tape on the back center seam would make some backbone effect and the long straight line contrasts the curves of the arm, shoulder and waist on each side (not so much recently though, the curves were more striking several years back).
there are some kinds of tapes, that tape they use with fireman jacket, etc.
there was leather tape as well.
btw, my stabilizer jacket for diving is also all tape seamed.

 

[runner]

you're welcome skot




softgrey, I got a pair of wool pants this season.
thanks for posting the pics!
it looks like some sacred or magic little item we are likely to see in some mtyhological saga.

did you see the jointed boot at atelier or on their site?
it's not the one I was referring to.
the one I was freaking out about has a joint on the instep in addition to the ankle joint.
it looks eerier, and sharp shape-wise.

 

[AlexN]

CCP sterling silver mesh shoelace necklace-
my pics...

Wow. Ummm...that's all I can think of. Wow.

 

[goldsmith]

Does anyone know all the retailers that carry Carol Christian Poell???

 

[Casius]

Off the top of my head;

USA- Atelier NY, Maxfields, Alan Bilzerian
Canada- Komakino for SS08
EU- The Library London, L'eclaireur (there's a few but Rue Herold is the best)
Australia- Eastern Market
Japan- MinorityRev, Lift, Mattotti

I know I'm forgeting a few but this is just off the top of my head.

 

[mikelowrey]

+

DAAD Dantone, Milan
10 Corso Como, Milan (occasionaly)
Lazzarri, Italy
Cento Cose, japan

 

[Casius]

Haha, can't believe I forgot the last two Mike.

 

[runner]

also barneys shinjuku, ginza, yokohama
midwest
kh cdg
and so on


btw, is it better to start a new thread for S/S 08, or to continue in this thread?
what do you think?

 

[gius]

hi runner
i think a new thread would be really helpful

 

[runner]

thanks alright gius

 

[luckyme]

I'm not that informed about this designer and have read through this thread with hopes of gaining some insight...from what I've digested he seems a bit dada and obsessed with new technique...each to be respected and admired. I am especially drawn to the construction and intentional aggressiveness of his work but at the same time wary. a bit of a roller coaster of emotion...most likely his intent.

this brings me to this bracelet I saw...can anyone enlighten me on it. is it made of metallic thread or chainmail? do you see it as a slave bracelet or armor?

yoox.com

 

[runner]

they did a series of spun silver pieces in A/W 06.
of them, there were sweater parts as accessories,
like just a v-neckline part of a sweater as a necklace/neckpiece, etc.
and there was a cuff version as well.
I remember the v-neck well, but somehow didn't check over the cuff and don't remember it in detail.
so I'm not sure, but the piece in the pic may be it.
silver thread sweater cuff bracelet?

what do you mean by "it's intent?"


key rings from the series for reference
courtesy ks

 

[runner]

this is "sudare" made of leather from S/S 03

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sudare

at a glance it looked like a leather chain mail in decorous blazer.


courtesy barneys

 

[gius]

so it is made of strips of woven leather?

it has a nice texture.. like raw silk or linen
and i'm surprised it is leather because of how it drapes

 

[runner]

I'm not sure what you mean by strips.
but the warp is there and it goes through the short little leather strips, like this below.
it actually drapes as a chain mail does in its own way.


rakuten.co.jp

 

[Scott]

those are magic too i dunno why but i just love that kind of raw texture.

runner,i think what she means by intent is his affinity for contradictory emotions....there's a bit of humour....melancholy and macabre....romantic etc. etc. i think you are absolutely right,luckyme.

 

[gius]

That's so interesting, runner Very cool fabric
Seems like it is something that can only be made by hand (or sewing machine..?)
Piercing every leather piece with the warp...

 

[Scott]

^perhaps if not by hand(which CC does actually employ quite a bit)he may have some old craftsman's sewing/knitting machine. because you're right,it doesn't seem like a technique,anything technological can execute as impeccably and with that kind of texture.

 

[Scott]

check out the spring collection! look at that brilliant reversible parachute lined coat....it serves many functions!! starts off as this signature CCP frock-shape coat,which is stunning in and of itself....then the lining can be detached from the inside to serve as this dramatic sweeping long coat.....or a wrap....then it can be reversed....

it's such a beauty

http://web.mac.com/ateliernewyork/iweb/Site/CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL 2 SS 2008.html

 

[JuiceMajor]

Carol Christian Poell is like substitute for Helmut Lang. i'll settle that for now!