Carol Christian Poell 2010 Milan

runner.. i agree.. the swatches are literally the bible to his work, as if it is the starting point, where he draws motivation and built from. personally. i find them exciting to look at.

and definitely... any mills who worked with carol, seemingly not limited in business - there is this mutual learning... and shared same bruises of worldview.

giovanni bonotto, a mill from italy.. very very often credits carol christian poell in publications

here's interesting one : http://download.archiviobonotto.org/news/7a35127_fashion.pdf


very interesting subject when it comes to his womens. i see de-tachment when it comes to the opposite gender - fe-male, but not in a way of discrimination, but curiosity that compelled with gendered lines. as such the many play of "feminism" traits and forms that counteracts with his male collection.

there is an interesting chapter of his work published in "FASHION AND IMAGINATION: About Clothes and Art" by jos arts...

will post them in general thread later..

the jarc, they are from mak
 
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^ also there could be this kind of view quoted below, in connection with the masculine and sometimes synthetic (or even somewhat demonic) elements of his womenswear like a mirage, and especially if you think about the concept of this collection.


" What Ulrich said was: There's not only the myth of the human being divided into two. We might also take Pygmalion, or Hermaphroditus, or Isis and Osiris : with slight variations it's always the same thing. It goes back a very long way, this desire for a doppelganger of the opposite sex, this craving for the love of a being that will be entirely the same as oneself and yet another, distinct from oneself, a magical figure that is oneself and that does nevertheless remain a magical figure as well and is more than any figment of the imagination in that it has the life-breath of self- sufficiency and independence. This old, old dream of the essence of love meeting, unhampered by the limitations of the corporeal world, in two identical-distinct figures — it's conjured up innumerable times through the ages by the solitary alchemistic processes that go on inside the alembic of the human skull. "

- robert musil



some images just for reference
trouser-skirt F/W 99
vice-versa trousers F/W 00
heel-boot S/S 02
S/S 05 shadow
09 self-edge
the para-mermaid is by nina levy

mak
isis
 

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from shelter
 

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from centocose kakegawa
 

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from atelier new york

.
 

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this subject clerici had been doing since 1948 perhaps represents the story of this collection beautifully.

mr. divided, 16th century schizoid man, or whatever complementary opposites
with a sphere as a magic symbol of unity/one-piece
over the mesmerismic magnetic-field

it looks like he not only stands for "dead end", he also implies the relationship between "dead end" and "self-edge".




archivioclerici
amazon
 

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