Carol Christian Poell S/S 08 Milan

[Casius]

Well the jeans look like a really heavy coated white denim. As for the leather, I'm not quite sure what kind of hides he is using, Runner would probably know more about that. I would guess it's still pretty stiff though as I'm sure it's either thick leather or backed with something to keep the shape.

 

[runner]

didn't stumble across this topic untill now.. thanks for the great info runner.

I've seen some images of the collection and the colours and tones are pretty nice, the yellow is way over my head but the natural whites, greys and especially the olive tones are beautiful. the perforations seem to have been taken to full extent even with boot soles being punched. I dont like it that much on the footwear or pants, but on some of the jackets it looked pretty cool.

the seams seem very interesting with the improved taping and other methods. hopefully they've tested them enough though, I personally had an unfortunate situation with the jointed trousers from the last season. they're made out of very paper-like cotton thats not woven but apparently pressed somehow. it feels cool, but its not very strong. my trousers got a small tear in a seam which was just because the stitching of course punches holes into the fabric and is held together from those holes. I was in touch with people at Poell and they had also found out about this issue. they would've fixed or exchanged it for me which was of course nice but I ended up fixing them myself. this is always a risk with new materials and methods, so I hope there won't be any issues with the glued seams and such this season.

you're welcome mikelowrey
sorry to hear that.
I too was about to buy the paper cotton joint knee trousers in some greyish color,
but I was told about some drawbacks of the paper cotton.
it's definitely one of those things that require the instructions before buy/use.
so I'd say it's partly the store's failure.
stores must know what they are selling and communicate what ccp did to them when they bought it, even though ccp can be a nightmare to a store who carries it only with cold business mind.

there is nothing like being cool and sturdy and almighty.
but things don't always work out perfectly.
or maybe even there is something about this kind of stuff which is opposed to the desire for that.
of course they have to do anything in their power.
but if there is anything we can do for ourselves, it may be that we try to be aware of what it is, as much as possible,
so that the final decision rests with us.
they are the ones who could sacrifice one for the sake of another.
sometimes they'd take idiosyncrasy rather than total balance, if they decide they cannot take all.



personally I didn't find any possible major issue in the glued pieces.
they seemed to be good enough as much as the tape-seamed pieces are.
plus, except for some pieces' hem/edge which is not sewn but only glued, it's more of a design/embelishment/trimming on sewn collar, cuff, elbow joint, etc.
but, as for the "open seam", it will be another thing that is not so strong.
or at least I felt as if it had belonged to the mortal.
I'd have to be careful in selecting a size. tight is likely to ruin it.

 

[runner]

thanks for your post, mikelowrey
i have heard other people's experiences on the paper-like fabric too, that it is very weak

i hope Poell can find some way of strengthening the material
it's too bad if it has to be discarded, since it sounds new and interesting

yet it's also not good to pay for something that's not durable enough

i love brittle, weak materials myself
but they may be a trouble for other people

this can be a question of degree.
they dare to struggle with the limits and grope for the depth.
so mostly it's not like it's completely unpractical and quite out of the question.
like a supreme tire for a certain kind of driver is not so durable in essence,
some things are about the pursuit of something which is by nature hostile to durability and all that. and some might be willing to pay for that.

(that said, they also produce lots of things you could use safely of course)

 

[runner]

you're welcome wiw



thank you softgrey
yes probably he finds humour and beauty there.
the pantograph series also reminded me of edward scissorhands.

it's the style with a smaller collar and a bit longer length which comes only in goat.
and its version without the ripstop layer
the black navy or the lighter oliveish grey would be great.

the vest bag is not at all too much (without the inflator hose etc), modified and seasoned in his own manner.
also it is not the easiest thing to wear.
but it's a cool piece.
it reminded me of your junya dress especially because it was also ivory white.




gius, Casius,
the materials they used with the perforated items other than accessaries are kangaroo and the peculiar cotton for the "cage (square perforations) jeans" series.
the cotton also feels like paper in some way.
but it is much thicker than the paper cotton from A/W 07.
a bit like something aerated, a cross between pasteboard and styrofoam feel.
the kangaroo is dry to the feel, relatively thin. the strength is characteristic of kangaroo.

 

[softgrey]

thank you softgrey
yes probably he finds humour and beauty there.
the pantograph series also reminded me of edward scissorhands.

it's the style with a smaller collar and a bit longer length which comes only in goat.
and its version without the ripstop layer
the black navy or the lighter oliveish grey would be great.

the vest bag is not at all too much (without the inflator hose etc), modified and seasoned in his own manner.
also it is not the easiest thing to wear.
but it's a cool piece.
it reminded me of your junya dress especially because it was also ivory white.

ah...wakatta...
if it reminded you of my junya dress then i have some idea of what it must be like..
to be honest-i didn't imagine that it was white - that might make it more difficult to wear ... in my opinion....
...

'the black navy or the lighter oliveish grey'
these would be my preferences as well...
that is why i was wondering which one you would choose...
i think i would have a hard time choosing between the two..

 

[Casius]

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Thought a lot of you would want to see at least some pictures.
Pictures from lift.

 

[gius]

thanks casius! ^

looks like a collection you have to see in person
really nice colours.
and some of the very white pieces definitely fit runner's descriptions

also thanks for the response about the materials , runner ^^

 

[mass]

thanks for the caps casius. the 2 in 1 pieces look just as good as i expected.

 

[AlexN]

Thanks for the pictures. Would love to see close-ups and descriptions.

 

[runner]

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[runner]

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[runner]

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[runner]

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[runner]

mattotti.co.jp

 

[skot4mc]

thank you runner!!

 

[mikelowrey]

Can't believe some of the prices Mattotti/Shelter has for the pieces, I hope this doesn't mean that Poell's entire price level has gone up.

 

[softgrey]

thanks casius and runner for the lovely pics..

gorgeously tailored pieces as usual...
what do we think about the pants...?
they are very high waisted...
i pretty much really like that...

pantograph...?
is that the sort of accordian-like metal that looks like a store gate?
is that a bracelet or a ring in post #34 runner?
i like it very much...
if it is a bracelet then it would seem really brilliant to me...
and i cannot believe i haven't seen anyone do this until now...
it is especially appealing for me who has such small wrists and has so much trouble finding a bracelet to fit...
*this one seems totally adjustable and therefore very appealing...

the 'locket'? seems very cool as well...

the joint on the leather jacket is great imo...looks very refined...
much less 'frankenstein'.....
i guess because the stitching is not as prominant as it has been in other seasons...

 

[Inaya]

oh I didn't realize all of the pics had been posted. thank you It's all so good looking... even better than I was anticipating

 

[mass]

Can't believe some of the prices Mattotti/Shelter has for the pieces, I hope this doesn't mean that Poell's entire price level has gone up.

can't say you're suprised though can you the funnel neck jacket was just a sign of things to come.

the lapel detail on the blazer is really nice, but i find most of his tailored wear to have a very weird fit. the anti-fit cut of his pants though of course is impeccable. and i agree with softgrey that gate (i think it's a ring) is very nice.

 

[Casius]

Well, this thread hasn't been getting nearly enough love lately...So I thought I would update.

All pictures from http://centocosekakegawa.hamazo.tv/

Seamless white shirt

Seamless grey shirt

Seamless l/s shirt

Seamless turtleneck

Glued seam shirt

s/s stand button shirt

greyish white jointed elbow leather jacket

Yellow rubber band boot