Carol Christian Poell - Designer | Page 45 | the Fashion Spot

Carol Christian Poell - Designer

Chinor1z said:
I really love it. I like whites but for many other designers it results in either too bright of a white (too easily dirtied) or for shirts, ends up being see-thru. I've avoided a lot of whites because of this. Currently the only two white items I have in my wardrobe are a LMaltieri thick long sleeved tee and a thin Bally button up (bought for like $50 hehe).

I like the CCP dirtied/off-white because it's white without being so stark and "precious". With CCP's off white pants, I wouldn't be afraid to sit down on a park bench or anything like that. I'm really excited about the off white distressed/dirtied diagonal zip boots. Perfect!!!

What about you Fuuma? Is this heavy usage of white a good or a bad thing for you?

When examining Poell’s work (or any designer really) it is important for me to separate:
  • His designs as art
  • His design as wearable items
  • His designs as possible wardrobe additions

I’m impressed by the integrity he displays and that sort of obsessive re-working of the same themes he brings to the table and it makes me appreciate his work as something to be enjoyed in and out of itself, effectively reminding me that if design is “art fulfilling a need” then a truly inspired creator can make me forget the “fulfilling a need” part. I do believe this has been mentioned before, but he’s one of the hardest designers to approach without having been in contact with the actual items, as there’s a very eerie quality you sense when viewing his designs in the flesh, so to speak (in the case of his leather work the “in the flesh” is sometimes disturbingly literal,). I’ll wait until I see the off-white items to judge, but I’m glad that he keeps to the same themes and still inject novelty, like those U pants and the dash of white, a slow but steady and consistent evolution impresses me more than all-over the place, unrelated designs that jump leaps and bounds.

As wearable objects, his work strikes me as slightly less accessible, as the wearer need to have such gravitas to pull it off, especially when wearing multiple items, that it becomes, in many instances, overwhelming. This doesn’t apply to his suits and shirts IMHO, who are interesting (not a fan of the shirts myself…) but innocuous enough, depending on the way they’re worn. In that area his white designs don’t strike me as more challenging than any of his other releases and I am sure they will find a suitable audience and we’ll see some cool shots of wearers in the following months. Adding a new palette will only give wearers more possibilities and that’s a good thing.

As possible addition to my own wardrobe CCP is, frankly, of limited interest. There is nothing wrong with that and I am still quite interested in seeing what he has to offer but I certainly don’t feel like there is much I would like to acquire. I must say I would eventually like to own a pair of white boots and those off-white CCP side-zips have piqued my interest. On the other hand I am aiming at having a limited wardrobe and since I already have the same (?) model in grey (from Safe), I feel it might be slightly overdone to get another pair.

So, good thing: yes for me: not sure
 
Solid response Fuuma. Well thought out.

I tend to agree with you in regards to some of CCP pieces in terms of their unwearability but artistic nature (the no-armhole human hair coat, the hair necktie, and the mummified calfskin gloves for example). As a consumer it can be tricky to walk that line between too extreme and too conservative when it comes to CCP items. His classic pants may be nice, but they're just... pants. Same goes with his dress shirts unless they have some interesting design or are overlocked etc.

I also love CCP because of his consistency and constant reworking. I can see a true evolution in his work (along with pieces from CDiem, LUC and their ilk) that I don't see in many other lines. Like you said, many designers just find some singular inspiration and just go with it for a season only to jump onto a different inspiration for another themed collection.

CCP's zipup jacket design has not changed in years and that overlock is carried through many pieces and styles. What changes is the fabrics/textures/treatments and for certain pieces, the construction. Each collection is a bit of a twist on his earlier work.

I can see a critic saying that he's stagnating with a lot of his stuff (ie "how many times can he put out the twisting pants?"), but I like it. His diagonal zip boots have been made in just about every format yet you and I are really captivated by his most current version. I think that's what makes Carol's stuff so special.

I agree with you that his pieces dont translate too well in picture form. The only way it's captured really well is... frankly in his lookbooks where his photos and the books themselves capture the feelings and essence of his work. Like you said, the leathers for example are a million times more amazing in person. Like something totally new. Whereas a leather jacket from most other brands... you know what to expect based on photos.

Good to hear you have a gray pair of the diagonal zips:) I absolutely love his footwear. It's really quite unique. There are substitutes/copycats for CDiem styled footwear but CCP footwear really stands alone.

A guy I talk to via email told me that he has this pair of CCP boots and while walking down the street in London, someone stopped him and offered him money on the spot for them. That kind of rabid fanaticism about clothes doesn't seem to happen with many other brands.
 
I think those classic items seemingly plain show the other half of what CCP is really made of.
in a way, CCP is about technical challenge and experiment, and conceptual dive and exploration dependent on his lifeline of certain classic tailoring foundation.
no matter how strange it may look (e.g. the blazer where the weft is dissolved and gone, and the warp is left there like broken spider's web), it seems to me that it is backed with some classic beauty.

sometimes CCP is a severe tailor and sometimes an insane curio dealer.
this is his strength.
it's not a matter of which is more important,
but the distance where he can go back and forth between the two
and that action itself.
like the ability to control downforce and lift.
and it may make something about CCP thrilling.
 
you're welcome helena, Scott, Melisande, skot, Baizilla



I respect his rebelious spirit and sense of humour.
courtesy HC
 
Has anyone seen these brown oxfords in stores yet this season? It's my favorite shoe of CCP to come out in some time.
(the ones on the top left)
CCPfootwear.jpg

Picture is from Minorityrev
 
cas - if i may reply on behlaf of a mutual acquaintance (johnny) - I think they are in fact a sort of patina-d grey - if it's the same ones, they have them on lazzariweb now.
 
helena- Thank you, I believe you are right that they are not brown at all, but a deep grey. But the ones on pictured on lazzariweb are a tad bit different.

I emailed Atelier about them and they are actually not leather at all, but paper!
 
maybe minorityrev has already received some of them (not all the sizes they ordered).
I think it's greyish cordovan.
barneys bought the rubber-soled version, but yet to come.
 
runner said:
maybe minorityrev has already received some of them (not all the sizes they ordered).
I think it's greyish cordovan.
barneys bought the rubber-soled version, but yet to come.

Runner- Barneys in NY? I wasn't even aware they carried CCP. Would you happen to know where a picture of the rubber soled version is?
 
I was talking about barneys Shinjuku, Yokohama stores
sorry

here is the pic

p_01.jpg
p_02.jpg
 
forgot to say the image above is from honeyee.com




btw, his sketches look like Schiele's in some way.
he might be influenced by Schiele to some extent, and Schiele might be where his signature form comes from.
and I guess that's part of the resaons why his inquiring mind tends to go inward.
just my assumption



commons.wikimedia.org
 
also the action in Schiele's drawing is twisting mostly.


Carol's silhouette that he made
hands, shoulders, frame,
very Schiele
courtesy hf
 
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uncanny comparison,runner!

i wonder though if he's concious of that style? great eye though runner...definitely can see that clearly ;-)
 
Carol's A/W 07 line is going to show tomorrow (Italy time of course).

Runner- Have you heard any more info on the line? All I have gotten so far is from centocose's blog.
 
yes Scott I wonder if there is Austrian underlying thing in common there.
but I think Carol is the secret modern heir of that method of deformation by Schiele.




Casius, if there is anything I can share, I'll post here.
the site you're referring to posted a pic of garment-tanned items, btw.
 
figure i would revive this thread with a picture of these back double zip boots that i just got
ccp3rz5.jpg


they're from fall 06 limited to 1 of 2 that was exclusive to atelier.
 
Yeaahhhh baby ^

Lookin at em makes me want the off-white ones even more... and those damn Augusta boots are making me salivate as well....
 
Yyes they are nice.
I actually saw someone selling a pair a couple of weeks ago.....
Like them, but there is something about them that seems kinda intimidating..........
 

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