Celine Menswear S/S 2025 Norfolk

Celine Homme sizes are wider than Dior Homme, I have still tailored pieces , blazers and jackets , from Dior Homme, and although I can still wear them, there are indeed much tighter in the shoulders: and the Dior Homme were 50R while the Celine Homme I buy now are 48R.
20 years ago Dior Homme made me thought I was too big, but honestly we can't surgically grate the shoulder blades yet.
Full looks doesn't work imho too or you look like you're just out of a periode movie set, pared down is the only way to go.

Could it be that the common PR practice of only sending full looks from the runway to press and ambassadors has lead customers to think they should wear it like that, too? I used to love independent retail and magazines precisely for the curatorial power they had, doing their own edits from the shows but now I see more and more also on the well-known online stores how they promote full looks in their buying and presentation.

To me there‘s just no charm in following the runway so much, but a lot of dedicated followers of certain designers with a cult do exactly that and it becomes super costume-y.
 
It's embarrassing how literal his work has been for years now. No matter the theme/mood, it's always so common you have to wonder how he himself isn't bored by it at this point.
Mmmmmm ...... but :
People like consisty as well it's not always about fake novelty that is just as much past repackaged as the new thing, we still have two arms and two legs (in most cases), people want to wear clothes that make them feel great, rich, slim or goth or intellectual or sexy or what ever, we as humans did not chance that much cars still don't fly and we still can't control our environment for the better either.

I think the idea that ist so common or real a updated reality (wich in most cases when you actual wear or see the clothes they are different than the vintage ones anyway but who cares )

Much like people love chanel 2.5 bags and hermes kelly´s and ralph lauren polo´s etc the conntiusnes of it is attractive to people.

There are moments when Hedi work feels stuck or like Prada even and there are moments that it feel like a added chapter to his style/long body of work this show for me added another page.

Hedi´s design language is analog he said it himself he has no desire to do design for clothes he grew out of this idea post Dior.
he prefers vintage Rolls Royce not the newest spectre.

Seeing a Hedi show and expecting design is like going to a Rick store and expecting Dior like flower dresses evoking delicate femininity.

Right place,wrong expectations.
 
At this point, "Jacquemus for Chanel" is a much more rational opinion...

How much of LVMH's budget is spent on all of this?
Celine budget they are profitable still so budgets are not much of a concern ....mind you and normal show can be 1 million for cost easily of a big brand .. shooting campaigns on location more

Show on location in a city for cruise can be 11 million for permits and cultural incentives to the city and flying in people hotels car services etc etc

The smart thing is they make so much content in that one week of shooting that its combined show and marketing adv .

Fashion brands often cover cost for big starts a s well that can be also charting flights for koren K pop starts that cost half a mislin to chart or more so its all relative cost

Each brand decides where or what works according to profitability and hype.

Jacquemus for Chanel feels like desperate idea/cry for help so far
 
I could not get through this video, despite the gorgeous location. The music was so repetitive, and the rapid shots from one to another made me feel ill. Could've been so much better, like if they contrasted the stately setting with contemporary music, something to give it an edge. Also, these models are really young! Even for Hedi, it seemed extreme. The whole thing was a little uncomfortable to watch.
 
I love this video 🤣 So pretentious and obnoxious 🤣 Reminds me of myself 🤣 The music is definitely stuffy and repetitive but I love the ego. I love the refinement. The ending doesn't shock me at all. I think it's quite sweet. Two young men OF THE SAME AGE falling in love. It's like an honest attempt to put out an anti homophobia message. A young boy and a young girl can fall in love so can two young boys and two young girls. Nothing wrong with that.

It might be the wound a lot of older gay men are looking to heal actually. Going back in time to relive the young romance that couldn't be. I think something great to show would be a couple of men, not boys. Break out from the youth obsession. Two grown up gay men together. Two older men even. How often do we see representations of older gay couples ? They're so sweet. They prove that gay love can last. Older lesbian couples also.

Celine just posted pictures of Chiara Mastroianni on their Instagram account and I think that's a great step forward. First middle age woman I've seen in a fashion ad in a long time. She reminds of Marie-Amélie Sauvé who'd make a great Celine model also. She totally fits the aesthetic. Alexandra Golovanoff also, along with her daughter and her mother. They'd make a great picture about family, generations and aging.

Dame Maggie Smith was featured in a Loewe campaign a few months ago but it seems to have been a one off. It would be great if it became common practise to feature middle age women in fashion images. They exist too. They dress themselves, they shop clothes, they like fashion. So do middle age men. Would be great to include them. Hedi for example. He could totally model his own clothes. He looks great.
 
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It feels like some influencer's version of how to dress like old money with all the chops. The cast feels off literally look like high school kids.
 
Since Hedi created skinny jeans for guys, he's been ruining everything ever since.
Seriously, he needs to be removed from Celine. He just does whatever, nothing ever connects.
just like what people said his initial success was because of the "unknown" it was mysterious and no one really knew what was happening so people were imagining great things from pictures. now that he makes a lot of videos and some runway, that mystery is broken and we all can see thru the pretentiousness and how its really a whole bunch of unwearable baby doll clothes. Unfortunately, fashion has come a long way and bringing back that aesthetic just doesnt work anymore. Now everyone wants to feel sexy even if they dont have a pre-pubescent body.
 
I find it rather amusing for people to mention over and over again how unwearable Hedi’s clothes apparently are based on the fact that he shows them on models in size 44/46, ignoring the fact that the very same antics are used in womenswear and nobody feels the concern when designers use the regular runway models, whose proportions are even more deviating from the average woman.

You guys would be surprised you hear how accurately graded Hedi’s patterns are in production sizes, I never witnessed a problem till 54, assuming that men with a bigger build will probably go to other designers anyway. The fastest-selling sizes have usually been 44 and 46 by my personal experiences when it comes down to outerwear and tailoring.
 
I find it rather amusing for people to mention over and over again how unwearable Hedi’s clothes apparently are based on the fact that he shows them on models in size 44/46, ignoring the fact that the very same antics are used in womenswear and nobody feels the concern when designers use the regular runway models, whose proportions are even more deviating from the average woman.

You guys would be surprised you hear how accurately graded Hedi’s patterns are in production sizes, I never witnessed a problem till 54, assuming that men with a bigger build will probably go to other designers anyway. The fastest-selling sizes have usually been 44 and 46 by my personal experiences when it comes down to outerwear and tailoring.
the sizing is not the problem... the clothes look juvenile and unwearable for adults. they can barely pull off the fitting, cant imagine how bad it will look on adults
 
the sizing is not the problem... the clothes look juvenile and unwearable for adults. they can barely pull off the fitting, cant imagine how bad it will look on adults

The clothes drape flawlessly on his models, you can say that this is not your desired body image and that’s totally fine (a lot of people find it just as debatable on female runway models), but you can’t say it wasn’t done flawlessly.

I just find it amusing that we still find it shocking in 2024 when we see a fashion designer using skinny models when it’s menswear when it’s considered less problematic for women where those kind of proportions are unattainable for many a woman. A lot of young men happen to be this skinny without being anorexic, especially in Asia where he has the strongest fanbase.

I’m kinda happy there are people like Hedi, Raf, Juun J. or Rick who decidedly cut clothes with a tall and lean body with youthful proportions in mind and not mature men, their lifestyle and physique. I had an extremely hard time finding clothes before the emergence of these designers who changed the face of what menswear looked like - You had maybe Helmut and other than that a lot of old and stuffy clothing that looked like it came right out of GQ magazine.
 
im not sure we are on the same conversation. im sure the clothes are flawless and is doing what hedi intended. Which is the main problem, the clothes. it defniitely not my style and im yet to be convinced seeing these clothes on anyone outside the runway or outside a celebrity event. As some have mentioned the clothes are a bit too literal and comes off costumey.

I really dont have a problem with designers choosing models with this body type, its always about the clothes. Unfortunately these are clothes i personally don't see suiting anyone else. thus i find it unwearable. could be personal taste defintely
 
…and that’s perfectly fine when it boils down to a personal sense of style. Admittedly, the kind of silhouettes I would be most inclined to wear are those that are unsuitable for summer climate and are also maybe a bit too much on the formal side. I would need to wear a pair of minimal, white tennis sneakers or skip shirt-and-tie when wearing one of those three-piece-suits to make it wearable on a day-to-day basis. Like I said, it could look a bit like early Lanvin Homme when worn a bit more casually.

The winter collection before was a lot easier and more straight forward to wear. Less accessorized and essential, therefor leading to a less costume-y result. I much prefered that one over this collection.
 
Hedi is so extremely relevant and responsive. This whole collection reflects exactly how Ive been wanting to dress recently. Even the crested blazers, I was thinking I haven't had a crested piped blazer since 2008... and literally weeks later Hedi provides me with one. Ive been wearing doe suede shoes and ordered like 3 pairs of birkenstocks in the doe suede because I'm so into it. Here's Hedi with a bunch of solutions for me. Thank you Hedi baby....



Hedi is lifestyle he's not a fashion designer. Thats why Celine is perfect for him as he has made Celine a full lifestyle solution. The Celine client is a Chic Streetwear client. A person who makes their own espresso and enjoys the tactile ritual but at the same time vacations in Chateaus. Celine is very analog thats why it's so appealing.
 
The whole lifestyle concept is precisely the thing I find annoying about Celine.

I can get myself behind fragrance and cosmetics if it makes sense (Hedi does great perfumes, but the lipsticks are not really adding anything that’s not already on the market… unlike, for example, Dries van Noten’s), but the Celine Pilates collection, home ware and Dog toys instead of a bit more ambitioned fashion feels a bit foul mouthed. Especially when I already get the feeling their stores and online store are usually stocked with the most boring merchandise and they never stock the pieces I would want to have.

Hedi isn’t even the most out-there designer on the market, but runway plays only but a small part in the universe of Celine and that’s really a shame!
 

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