Celine S/S 2025 Paris

[tourbillions]

Why pass up this golden opportunity? It’s time to hire Hedi Slimane for the job he was born for — the relaunch of TOPSHOP!

forever 21 badly needs a revamp. he will change it to forever 15

 

[Lorenzogi]

Why pass up this golden opportunity? It’s time to hire Hedi Slimane for the job he was born for — the relaunch of TOPSHOP!

There is no house he can not take over actuallly - a jack of all trades 😆

 

[tricotineacetat]

You guys can joke about it all you want but it’s undeniable he delivered in all his CD positions - From YSL Rive Gauche Homme to Dior Homme, Saint Laurent and eventually Celine. You may disagree on the degree of taste and as I was mentioning before, even as a longtime admirer am not free of criticism but it’s without doubt he left on a high note and there is an evolution to his work - Sometimes you only see that upon hindsight.

Very few designers in this industry have this impressive track record and lasting influence on the brands he helped elevate, he can absolutely ask for the highest level of fees for whatever offers are flying his way - If not, he leaves behind a more than impressive body-of-work.

Chapeau!

 

[Caffeine]

Their website is down? Is it just me?

 

[Creative]

Céline is the only brand that is not cheap and it’s thanks to Hedi.

Dior, Givenchy, Fendi, Valentino, Hermès… their merchandise is terrible and beyond cheap. Hedi made Céline grow like crazy without compromising.

That said, I don’t get people saying this looks youthful. I mean, the models are young, the clothing is quite classic. But I’m ok with that. I think his Chanel will be a tad boring after a few years but better that than Jacquemus.

 

[tourbillions]

with such limited distribution of his rtw... it better be not cheap at all. The stores barely have any runway pieces or anything close to it. Mostly a lot of basics with logo or biker jackets etc.

 

[LenaLena]

I'm not a Hedi girl but

You guys can joke about it all you want but it’s undeniable he delivered in all his CD positions - From YSL Rive Gauche Homme to Dior Homme, Saint Laurent and eventually Celine. You may disagree on the degree of taste and as I was mentioning before, even as a longtime admirer am not free of criticism but it’s without doubt he left on a high note and there is an evolution to his work - Sometimes you only see that upon hindsight.

Very few designers in this industry have this impressive track record and lasting influence on the brands he helped elevate, he can absolutely ask for the highest level of fees for whatever offers are flying his way - If not, he leaves behind a more than impressive body-of-work.

Chapeau!

so true, even thought I dont like Hedi's work he delivers , he's an obviously safe option for Chanel

 

[tourbillions]

he is a short term solution that will only worsen their problem after he leaves

 

[Frederic01]

Céline is the only brand that is not cheap and it’s thanks to Hedi.

Dior, Givenchy, Fendi, Valentino, Hermès… their merchandise is terrible and beyond cheap. Hedi made Céline grow like crazy without compromising.

You're joking, right?! The website and the boutiques are FULL of these kind of low-grade merch that all the brands are doing. Hedi compromised from day one to grow to the point Celine is at now. All the t-shirts and pet stuff etc etc. The fashion shows are a complete anomaly to what the brand is actually selling. He is no different from all the others you mentioned.


CELINE

 

[Creative]

You're joking, right?! The website and the boutiques are FULL of these kind of low-grade merch that all the brands are doing. Hedi compromised from day one to grow to the point Celine is at now. All the t-shirts and pet stuff etc etc. The fashion shows are a complete anomaly to what the brand is actually selling. He is no different from all the others you mentioned.

View attachment 1313450
CELINE

To me it’s not the same. Aside from the bra, none of his “easy” merch has been a huge success that destroyed the image. The Tshirts are even cute, I wouldn’t mind to wear one. The aura of the brand is still elevated and desirable.

The rest of the brands’ image is pure trash.

 

[HigthaVandah]

I have a more positive brand image of Celine too, creative. I wonder if it's partially because of Hedi's photography for the campaigns. Eye-ticklingly crisp while romanticizing even the most basic of items.

 

[Lola701]

To me it’s not the same. Aside from the bra, none of his “easy” merch has been a huge success that destroyed the image. The Tshirts are even cute, I wouldn’t mind to wear one. The aura of the brand is still elevated and desirable.

The rest of the brands’ image is pure trash.

Only because they have controlled the distribution and the availability of those said items but the amount of logo and merch pieces could totally hurt the brand

For me, Rider’s job will be to walk that thin line. When he left Celine, there was barely no logo around now, it’s a fest.

And I would say that Hedi compromised because in the early days of his Celine, it was not about a logo even about the « Triomphe ». I remember he did some fantastic, very Ralph Lauren-coded pieces with the « Sulky », from his second collection. Things changed around 2021/2022.

But as I said, Celine’s advantage is the distribution.

 

[Frederic01]

To me it’s not the same. Aside from the bra, none of his “easy” merch has been a huge success that destroyed the image. The Tshirts are even cute, I wouldn’t mind to wear one. The aura of the brand is still elevated and desirable.

The rest of the brands’ image is pure trash.

We will have to agree to disagree on this one! Haha.

For me, Hedi’s arrival at Celine brought an inevitable downgrading and cheapening of the brand. They sacrificed prestige for sales, as most of the other LVMH brands did also. The brand reputation peaked with Phoebe Philo : great design, no logo's, and limited distribution.

The thing is once a brand starts to produce things like sweatshirts, t-shirts, etc etc with logos everywhere - it's the beginning of the end in terms of maintaining prestige. Hedi may put a lot of effort into creating a halo effect around the runway collections and "Haute Couture" lines, but at the end of the day, Celine is selling cheap merch with the logo on it and/or the words CELINE emblazoned on it. How else do you think he got to 2 or 3 billion in sales? By selling exquisite white shirts and tweed blazers? LOL I don't think so. It's by selling the cheapest of the cheap things in the brand that the masses wear (and often with no sense of style). The amount of people I see wearing all those Celine t-shirts is so off-putting. It's no different than how Riccardo ruined Burberry by putting that cheap TB logo on everything.

To be honest the only LVMH brand really that has maintained its aura is Loro Piana. Maybe Loewe too, but I see they are doing a lot of logo's now too. Outside of LVMH, I would consider Phoebe Philo and The Row to be more prestigious than Celine for example.

 

[NoInvite]

What you see in the stores and e-com is a reflection of the market. It's the reality and its kinda sad.

 

[Lola701]

We will have to agree to disagree on this one! Haha.

For me, Hedi’s arrival at Celine brought an inevitable downgrading and cheapening of the brand. They sacrificed prestige for sales, as most of the other LVMH brands did also. The brand reputation peaked with Phoebe Philo : great design, no logo's, and limited distribution.

The thing is once a brand starts to produce things like sweatshirts, t-shirts, etc etc with logos everywhere - it's the beginning of the end in terms of maintaining prestige. Hedi may put a lot of effort into creating a halo effect around the runway collections and "Haute Couture" lines, but at the end of the day, Celine is selling cheap merch with the logo on it and/or the words CELINE emblazoned on it. How else do you think he got to 2 or 3 billion in sales? By selling exquisite white shirts and tweed blazers? LOL I don't think so. It's by selling the cheapest of the cheap things in the brand that the masses wear (and often with no sense of style). The amount of people I see wearing all those Celine t-shirts is so off-putting. It's no different than how Riccardo ruined Burberry by putting that cheap TB logo on everything.

To be honest the only LVMH brand really that has maintained its aura is Loro Piana. Maybe Loewe too, but I see they are doing a lot of logo's now too. Outside of LVMH, I would consider Phoebe Philo and The Row to be more prestigious than Celine for example.

And it’s the same thing Virginie did with Chanel.
Under Karl, they took advantage of not having a permanent RTW collection. So they only did Tshirts and denim regularlyfor Resort, everything was a very limited edition anyway (I remember a marinière with a huge CC brushed that was coveted because hard to get or even the Cuba, Miami and all tshirts from the resorts).
Chanel under Karl was structured in two things when it came to RTW: Knitwear and Tweed and it was reflected in his collection in his last decade.

So of course Virginie sold more clothes but when you see the said clothes, it’s tacky printed « CC » everywhere!

So yes, Virginie’s stuff sold well but she compromised a lot in terms of design and after Karl the executives cut corners in terms of productions. Quality issues weren’t a subject under Karl. Things changed but he was pragmatic in his approach to design.

 

[tourbillions]

You're joking, right?! The website and the boutiques are FULL of these kind of low-grade merch that all the brands are doing. Hedi compromised from day one to grow to the point Celine is at now. All the t-shirts and pet stuff etc etc. The fashion shows are a complete anomaly to what the brand is actually selling. He is no different from all the others you mentioned.

View attachment 1313450
CELINE

This is the true face of Slimane's celine... This doesnt even have all the variety of his t shirts. These logo pieces are the biggest contributor to their success together with ther perfumes. Event at YSL, all of a sudden people were eager to wear the SL logo t shirts. None of the old celine/old sl clients could afford his runway pieces and the Chanel clients wouldnt want to be associated with any different CC logo.

The only one producing pretty good watered down runway pieces are Louis Vuitton even in the sea of logos youll find ghesquire's touch.

 

[Creative]

We will have to agree to disagree on this one! Haha.

For me, Hedi’s arrival at Celine brought an inevitable downgrading and cheapening of the brand. They sacrificed prestige for sales, as most of the other LVMH brands did also. The brand reputation peaked with Phoebe Philo : great design, no logo's, and limited distribution.

The thing is once a brand starts to produce things like sweatshirts, t-shirts, etc etc with logos everywhere - it's the beginning of the end in terms of maintaining prestige. Hedi may put a lot of effort into creating a halo effect around the runway collections and "Haute Couture" lines, but at the end of the day, Celine is selling cheap merch with the logo on it and/or the words CELINE emblazoned on it. How else do you think he got to 2 or 3 billion in sales? By selling exquisite white shirts and tweed blazers? LOL I don't think so. It's by selling the cheapest of the cheap things in the brand that the masses wear (and often with no sense of style). The amount of people I see wearing all those Celine t-shirts is so off-putting. It's no different than how Riccardo ruined Burberry by putting that cheap TB logo on everything.

To be honest the only LVMH brand really that has maintained its aura is Loro Piana. Maybe Loewe too, but I see they are doing a lot of logo's now too. Outside of LVMH, I would consider Phoebe Philo and The Row to be more prestigious than Celine for example.

No, but that’s for sure, the image is cheaper now than when Phoebe was there, there’s no doubt about that. But Phoebe’s Céline was small… Hedi managed to make it very big, obviously with cheap merchandise as well, but the image of the brand is still elevated and none of those items made it “big” aside from the bra a few seasons.

You see the Balenciaga hoodies, the Fendi logo, the Dior merch, the Prada Bijioux and bags with the triangle, Versace… and all you want to do is run. Loewe for me is similar to Céline. They have cheap merch as well (the denim with the huge logos, the wife beaters ) but the image kind of stays strong still. It’s not canivalizing the rest.

And Loro Piana with the shoes and bags became a kind of Hermes… I find them ultra cheap, more than something by Celine. It’s like a no-logo-logo product, for me it’s the same. The clothing, yeah, I agree, but it would make no sense to find logoed T-shirts and hoodies at Loro Piana (well, that was also the case with Celine before Hedi, but you know what I mean).

 

[tricotineacetat]

Part of the reason Celine was struggling before the arrival of Phoebe Philo was that it was lacking a clear legacy to build on, much worse than what people are connecting with Givenchy, as Hubert de Givenchy was not a minor couturier.

After Philo's departure, it was smart to affirm classics in the long run. Like it or not, but the Triomphe emblem on belts and handbags as well as the updated monogram canvas introduced during the Hedi years would be foolish to discontinue much as the brand should remain in the template of 'sophisticated-sportswear-with-a-french-twist'.

As I was mentioning before, Celine is now established as a Parisian heritage maison well beyond the reach of fashion insiders, reflected in it's revenues. This was precisely the task given to Hedi.

 

[Creative]

Part of the reason Celine was struggling before the arrival of Phoebe Philo was that it was lacking a clear legacy to build on, much worse than what people are connecting with Givenchy, as Hubert de Givenchy was not a minor couturier.

After Philo's departure, it was smart to affirm classics in the long run. Like it or not, but the Triomphe emblem on belts and handbags as well as the updated monogram canvas introduced during the Hedi years would be foolish to discontinue much as the brand should remain in the template of 'sophisticated-sportswear-with-a-french-twist'.

As I was mentioning before, Celine is now established as a Parisian heritage maison well beyond the reach of fashion insiders, reflected in it's revenues. This was precisely the task given to Hedi.

I totally agree but I wouldn’t say Phoebe’s Celine was struggling. I think it was perfect for what it was and one of my fav tenures ever by a designer at a house. Same with Elbaz at Lanvin. It was “small” but very high end and special. I love that kind of model, international, pretty big but not too much, so it can stay pure and untouched.


I guess LVMH wanted Céline to be what it’s now, but I love when brands stay just in the fashion mood instead of the lifestyle. But I totally get it’s more productive and long term. Phoebe’s Celine depended on her, Hedi’s Céline has now the basics to keep working and developing it…

Btw, almost all the perfumes smell amazing at Céline…

On another note, somebody shared with me the figures of several dept stores in Europe and they are quite negative vs LY 😳 I guess that’s the trend in boutiques as well. Maybe that was one of the reasons why he left (it’s been like that for more than a 10 months).

 

[Lola701]

Ultimately, I don’t think development at that height is impossible to do logos. The thing is how to do them, with a creative integrity and without it looking like « merch ».

Phoebe did logos. It simply never took off but I remember in her earlier seasons at Celine, there was a monogram Triomphe line of bags but the leather stuff took off and became very successful. I find her take on the monogram chicer than it current version…

I think Hedi did the logo well when he started to do it. He did it at first in a very « US campus » style. Ok you got a logo tshirt but at least it looked part of a bigger story. It went downhill when he did those TikTok collections and when that picture of a rapper wearing a sequined silver Celine hoodie popped up.

I think Loewe is currently walking that fine line perfectly. I hate the Anagram on the knees but they can always print it on the back pocket.
And at Loewe, their leather bags are very successful…So much that their version of the monogram in canvas is not working.

Even at Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquiere introduced logos. There was a small B on some denim stuff, they had logo tshirts with an archive Cristobal look on it. It still looked like part of the story.

The danger for Celine now is to not be a « J’adore Dior » kind of situation.
I think there are more interesting ways to sell merch than having a bold CELINE in helvetica written on a plain white T-shirt.

The disconnect happens when the image you see on the catwalk doesn’t match the merchandise.
When you go to Louis Vuitton website, even the tackiest logo coat looks part of the Ghesquiere universe. When it’s styled, you get it.
When I look at Hedi latest collections, those boys and girls aren’t wearing the merch!