Chanel Haute Couture S/S 2020 Paris

[RaisinBoy]

But where's the couture? Everything is lifeless, even Gigi is bored. And some looks are just tragic – they look like curtains with buttons.

I think that Virginie didn't want to be Karl's successor. In my opinion, she was thrown into that role, and she herself is not really satisfied with the situation. She might be a good manager in the atelier, but she is not a creative force.

 

[nyc_art_style]

Is it just me or has the diversity of the model casting at chanel really gone down since Virginie took over? I counted 4 black models (including look 57, not sure what her background is) Adut was the only very dark skin girl. And I also counted only a handful of Asian models as well.

Even the Caucasian models all look the same. Looks 13 and 14 could be sisters. Same for looks 58 and 59 as well.

I feel like Karl tried to champion personalities and physical differences. He wasn’t the most inclusive designer but he did value all types of beauty. Virginie doesn’t seem to be the same. We were making such progress and now her casting feels like a regression.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^Eyeroll.

Always gotta love the bean counters.

 

[franceslions]

How could you let some of the most beautiful women in the world look so hideous? this is worse than Dior, at least they had quite a color palette.
Here everything is so plain, no allure at all.

 

[Vitamine W]

Holy sh*t, that is the saddest dump of a couture collection ever. I actually gasped at some of the atrocities she sent out there. Are MGC and her competing over who can make a their client look more frigid?
Go dig waterwells in Africa and actually contribute something to this planet instead of wasting all these resources. Such a shameful waste of energy and money. SHAME on both of them and I mean this sincerely. SHAME.

 

[LostInNJ]

^^Eyeroll.

Always gotta love the bean counters.

Gott a love someone who doesn't care about diversity. Gold star for you.

 

[Benn98]

I wonder which reviewer will actually have the guts to call this what it is. Dior included.

 

[CholoChic]

Women are destroying the legacy of Paris culture?
Why? because fashion it is like a good lover who dresses you with passion
and these women designers just are making what they think a women should wear without poetry

 

[donyan]

I think that Virginie didn't want to be Karl's successor. In my opinion, she was thrown into that role, and she herself is not really satisfied with the situation. She might be a good manager in the atelier, but she is not a creative force.

Judging from her facial expression after the show I think you hit the nail on the head. She clearly does not want to be there, and its evident in the collection...also I can't get over the black shoes+white socks+white tights, who thought that this was a good idea?

 

[dior_couture1245]

Gott a love someone who doesn't care about diversity. Gold star for you.

I care about good fashion.

And frankly, as someone who has followed fashion obsessively for almost 20 years, it has become quite clear to me that as soon as “diversity” became top priority above all else and the be-all-end-all judgement of quality, fashion has objectively become a sad, sad, sad shell of its former creative glory.

 

[nyc_art_style]

I care about good fashion.

And frankly, as someone who has followed fashion obsessively for almost 20 years, it has become quite clear to me that as soon as “diversity” became top priority above all else and the be-all-end-all judgement of quality, fashion has objectively become a sad, sad, sad shell of its former creative glory.

Appreciating different cultures, beauties, and people is a part of “good fashion”. To disregard diversity is antithetical to the pursuit of wonderful design. How anyone could debate the usefulness of diversity in fashion just baffles me.

or more bluntly Chanel and all other luxury brands do not solely exist for white European people. The casting should reflect that.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

And people criticised Karl's work when he was alive. I miss this man so much.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Appreciating different cultures, beauties, and people is a part of “good fashion”. To disregard diversity is antithetical to the pursuit of wonderful design. How anyone could debate the usefulness of diversity in fashion just baffles me.

or more bluntly Chanel and all other luxury brands do not solely exist for white European people. The casting should reflect that.

Chanel and almost all other luxury brands were created by white European people though? It is a part of their collective heritage.

I’m not even saying that no one else can buy into Chanel, but why is it that Chanel must reflect everyone on the globe, for example, but like....we also can’t culturally appropriate at the same time? Seems like a one way street.

I do appreciate different beauties, cultures, and peoples....and part of that is loving that Chanel is French! In the same way that I love that Kabuki is Japanese! Last time I checked, no one is asking Japan to diversify their Kabuki performances so that it looks like a United Nations assembly???

I’m not advocating or even arguing for exclusionary measures...all I’m doing is posing the question.

 

[Benn98]

Extract from Vanessa Friedman review, because you simply cannot rely on European press:

.......And Virginie Viard’s Chanel simply carried on with the semiotics set by her mentor and predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld, albeit in a more minimal, unforced kind of way.

On a set built to mimic the vegetable gardens of the abbey orphanage in Aubazine, France, where Coco Chanel spent her youth among nuns and (apparently) tomatoes, complete with vintage linens hanging on the line, Ms. Viard sent out a collection almost entirely in black and white, etching a progression of silhouettes from schoolgirl through governess, and attitudes both naïve and strict. Collars pie-crust and Peter Pan in lace and jewels framed bouclé uniform skirt suits and ballerina dresses; narrow, pleated shirtwaists swept the ankles; and evening gowns had shoulders swathed in sheer organza, glinting like stars.

They were light in step, timeless in message (we all grow up), yet old fashioned in effect. These were roles, after all, that once confined women. Chanel herself broke free. Ms. Viard hasn’t yet. At least she’s moving — baby steps! — in the right direction.

New York Times

 

[jeanclaude]

I think Virginie is gonna take the easy way for the next collections, making each new one "inspired" on every chapter of the life of Gabrielle...but taking into consideration how literal her work is, I can´t help but wonder if she will dare to present nazi uniforms made of tweed, when she arrives to that chapter of Coco´s life...

 

[LostInNJ]

I care about good fashion.

And frankly, as someone who has followed fashion obsessively for almost 20 years, it has become quite clear to me that as soon as “diversity” became top priority above all else and the be-all-end-all judgement of quality, fashion has objectively become a sad, sad, sad shell of its former creative glory.

So, you are blaming diversity as a reason why fashion has become sad?

I don't want to hijack this topic, and you sing the same tune anytime someone mentions it, but your views are quite pathetic.

 

[Sai]

Maria Grazia and Virginie could be best friends forever!! They are in the same line of untalented mediocrity as fashion designers.

so accurate. awful. claire wright, maria and virginie are bringing me down

 

[Sai]

terrible show and collection.. the word GRIM comes to mind

 

[Lola701]

so accurate. awful. claire wright, maria and virginie are bringing me down

Clare is talented. She is just at the wrong house.

 

[Benn98]

I can´t help but wonder if she will dare to present nazi uniforms made of tweed, when she arrives to that chapter of Coco´s life...

Indeed! Lol. That era is the blight for all the Chanel fanatics and filmmakers. They will romanticise everything from the streets she favoured to her first shop and now the orphanage. But bring up the Nazi past and you get radio silence.