Chanel Pre-Fall 2019 Paris-New York

[Benn98]

He has never done Punk!

The Chanel woman going Punk? That should be a scream. When you read those names, it sort of falls in line with his audience and where they'd either vacation or reside. Next up? St Barths, St Tropez. Nothing obscure like Bolivia.

I could've sworn he did India too at some stage? For some rea I recall seeing a campaign with Heidi Mount. Oh Heidi! He was all over her and Freja at some point.

 

[jeanclaude]

I would like to see "Chanel-North Korea". Prisoner suits in tweed, fetter 2.55 purses with golden chains, barb-wire belts in leather, double "CC" bags covering heads, communist embroideries here and there (all sewn by real NK prisoners)...Karl, what are you waiting for???



font: spoonflower.com

 

[Lola701]

The Chanel woman going Punk? That should be a scream. When you read those names, it sort of falls in line with his audience and where they'd either vacation or reside. Next up? St Barths, St Tropez. Nothing obscure like Bolivia.

I could've sworn he did India too at some stage? For some rea I recall seeing a campaign with Heidi Mount. Oh Heidi! He was all over her and Freja at some point.

Oh yes I forgot! He did India but they did the show in Paris. I guess they didn’t have the authorization to show there (like with the « Antique Greece » collection). And he did St Tropez & Monaco.

The majority of the places they did are more about Karl’s personal interest. He was fascinated by a culture or never had the opportunity to go to a country: he did the collection.
I think that in the 80’s & 90’s, he did very outrageous and wild things. He even introduced some allure of grunge. He could have done Punk. The « Rock » collection of 2002 was done with taste & subtlety.

They haven’t shown at 3 very important places for Chanel: Deauville, Biarritz & Switzerland.
LVMH should really put more thougth into the way they shows Fendi. Some extravaganza is needed in Milan (as we are witnessing his swan song).

 

[chanelh]

He has never done Punk!

i think he did, the Paris-Tokyo prefall collection was somehow Punk inspired, you can tell from Model's hair style, and it didn't work for me.....

 

[Lola701]

i think he did, the Paris-Tokyo prefall collection was somehow Punk inspired, you can tell from Model's hair style, and it didn't work for me.....

Paris Tokyo was about the Mangas/Anime et Harajuku culture. The hair was kinda reminescent of that kind of « new romantic » allure you find in some anime.
So no Punk for Karl. It would have worked in that era tho...fashion was more subtle back then.

 

[Benn98]

Kind of foolish to release this before the runway presentation showing crocodile skin, but ok.

Chanel to Halt Use of Exotic Skins

The French firm cited difficulty sourcing skins that match its ethical standards.

By WWD Staff on December 3, 2018

NEW YORK — No more croco for Coco.

On the eve of its pre-fall Metiers d’Art show here at the Met, Chanel said Monday it would “no longer use exotic skins in our future creations.”

“The future of high-end products will come from the know-how of what our atelier is able to do,” Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fashion and president of Chanel SAS, said in an interview, hinting that some examples of such craftsmanship would be paraded in the show, which showcases the capabilities of the specialty couture ateliers Chanel owns.

The exotic skins in question include crocodile, lizard, snake and stingray. Pavlovsky noted the list also includes fur, of which Chanel uses very little.

Pavlovsky explained that it was becoming increasingly difficult to source skins that met the house’s quality and ethical standards, and that it would focus its research and development on textiles and leathers generated by “agri-food” industries.

Chanel already utilizes tweeds that are not really tweeds at all, but complicated embroideries that are difficult to copy.

The executive noted that it would take some time for existing products in exotic skins to work their way out of its boutique distribution. He declined to pinpoint the value of Chanel’s exotic skin business.

Chanel’s couturier Karl Lagerfeld said he couldn’t remember doing fur at Chanel, while the founder Gabrielle Chanel might have possessed a panther coat and a sable top. “You look at old collections, there was not much fur,” he recalled.

As for exotic skins, “there is a problem of supply and that was not Chanel’s business anyway,” he said. “We did it because it’s in the air, but it’s not an air people imposed to us. It’s a free choice.”

WWD.com

 

[Melancholybaby]

^None of the leather was real crocodile according to Bridget Foley

If that treatment hinted toward street, so, too, did a few denim looks and a leather biker jacket, the former decorated with tonal denim appliques that looked like non-specific ancient symbols and the latter, stamped to imitate croc, Exhibit A of the brand’s new no-more-exotics policy.

wwd.com

 

[Benn98]

^None of the leather was real crocodile according to Bridget Foley

Oh wow! Thanks, it looks like the real thing, not that my hands ran over the material.
As the article states, Chanel was never really affected by fur. Or even leather. As it is the mock croc segment was rather shocking.

Now the Italian houses like BV, Ferragamo, Fendi and the like.....

 

[Lola701]

They are clever. With that news, their super exclusive clientele will buy all the remaining exotic leather bags and their resale value will be insane. They have their outrageous evening bags that sells for the price of an exotic bag anyway.

This is a move Hermès will never take. I wonder if leather goods company can do without exotic leather. Gucci’s current creative direction doesn’t seem to be into that right now but in the future, I can see them even going back to fur.

 

[Perickles]

Everything here is so forgettable and ugly.

 

[Deleted member 141523]

For some moments, it looks scary. The dark room, the make-up and the weird music.

 

[Wintergreen]

This is so welcome after the lameness of Chanel S/S 2019. I had no idea Chanel/Karl were interested in being this zeitgeist-y, but why not? An edgy(ish)/current collection here and a classically beautiful one there doesn't sound like a bad combination to me.

 

[chanelh]

Chanel’s Year of Change

according to BOF, Virginie Viard may take Karl's place.......well, it seems an option, i mean, if Chanel is really looking for another "Karl", who knows him better than Virginie. Especially, she is closing the show with Karl recently, seems an deliberate move to upgrade her position in the house

But again, would be like Bill Gaytten for Dior? i mean after all, she is more of an executive than creator

 

[Nomar]

Probably one of his worst collections I've seen.

 

[Morgane07]

It's kinda weird to see all that bling when you think about all the riots and protests from the working-class in Paris and other cities in France.

I actually like the music - it works well I think.

 

[Benn98]

It's kinda weird to see all that bling when you think about all the riots and protests from the working-class in Paris and other cities in France.

I actually like the music - it works well I think.

Exactly, sort of like the precursor to the Reign of Terror.

Behold Karl's take on the issue via The Cut. Wishy-washy at best:

Have young people changed?
Yes. I prefer them now. Because they are freer, they are more informed. I like the moment we are living through, but not the yellow raincoat in the street. [PR: “The Yellow Vest protesters.”] I’m not French. I don’t have to have opinions about French political events.

You have never voted, right?
Never. You voted? [Looks incredulous.]

Well, yes. Why do you think people are so upset now?
You know, if you know the money they have to [make it through] the month, you understand. It’s horrible, no? They want a little more cash, and less expensive, how you call it … [speaks French] gasoline.