catryn horn ...the best and most accurate critique in my opinion said the following ...(all from nytimes.com)
PARIS, March 4 — In the constant to and fro of the French collections, Olivier Theyskens established a new look at Nina Ricci, while Paulo Melim Andersson turned the feminine Chloé into a puzzling abstraction.
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Jean-Luce Hure for The New York Times
CHLOE: A silk T-shirt dress with metallic embroidery.
Both designers are in new jobs — Mr. Theyskens left Rochas when it closed, and Mr. Andersson comes from Marni — and both said they wanted to create clothes for young women.
Well. There isn’t a soul in fashion who wouldn’t like to see a designer fulfill that promise. We’d all like to know what shapes and proportions truly express a contemporary attitude. Mr. Andersson, however, reverted to looks that have been in fashion for a while, especially at Marni.
By this, one means the loose shift drizzled with metallic bits and the intentionally awkward skirt worn with a top that makes a stylistic lunge at futurism (with a shiny or plastic-looking fabric). Mr. Andersson, who succeeds Phoebe Philo, managed to get the shapes right, even if the collection looked more springlike than wintry, but he needs to find Chloé’s French soul.