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Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W 2019.20 Paris

The ligne Corolle was in 1947 and luckily, in his career, Christian Dior did many things, changed his shape but with the same principle. It is known that every season has a new line. I think he did "La ligne H".

I don't think women in the 70's wanted to look like the ones from the 50's.



The 70's were very inspired by the 40's. Girls going to the flea market and buying vintage clothes

.

Christian Dior may have done ‘H’ and changed the silhouettes but his body of work has always been the same woman, the same type of elegance, same formality and with less variation and evolution than YSL for example.

You say 70s women didn’t want to look 50s, but they were happy to buy vintage? I don’t understand you saying they wouldn’t look to the past but still buy vintage. These are opposite viewpoints.

When I think Dior I think of dovima with elephants, the famous photo. If I go to buy the clothes, I want it to have that iconic visual closeness. If I want futuristic fabrics and wildly cutting edge technology I can find that in any number of other places.

If these new designers are not to your standard I would love to hear what looks you personally would design for the house. Be the change you want to see.
 
Christian Dior may have done ‘H’ and changed the silhouettes but his body of work has always been the same woman, the same type of elegance, same formality and with less variation and evolution than YSL for example.

You say 70s women didn’t want to look 50s, but they were happy to buy vintage? I don’t understand you saying they wouldn’t look to the past but still buy vintage. These are opposite viewpoints.

When I think Dior I think of dovima with elephants, the famous photo. If I go to buy the clothes, I want it to have that iconic visual closeness. If I want futuristic fabrics and wildly cutting edge technology I can find that in any number of other places.

If these new designers are not to your standard I would love to hear what looks you personally would design for the house. Be the change you want to see.

You can dress the same woman without making her wear the same dress. We agree on that one. That’s why I always talk about identity of the designer.
You can also have a genius like Alaia who for most his career has done the same shapes but has also dressed a totally different woman from the one of his earlier collections.
And exactly how you said. Dior was confident and consistent in his vision and because of that, he was able to challenge his clientele....Unlike Yves who, for me found himself really in the 80’s.

Women bought 40’s clothes because that’s what was available in the flea market and cheaper. And 40’s shapes were more comfortable and so were appropriate for women with a active life.
YSL’s 1971 was inspired by Paloma Picasso who at the time, wasn’t rich yet and bought her clothes in the flea market and created that look with her red lipstick and stuff.

Dior doesn’t have to be futuristic. That’s not the point and future in fashion is 6 months. I think we can have grown up clothes, feminity and romance without doing the full skirt with corset thing.

There are good designers who can do Dior. For me, MGC is not one of those. She can be great elsewhere.

I’ve always said that I like the idea of Alber Elbaz for Dior because he understand romance and stuff but can do beautiful and simple clothes women would die to wear!
 
Dior doesn’t have to be futuristic. That’s not the point and future in fashion is 6 months. I think we can have grown up clothes, feminity and romance without doing the full skirt with corset thing.

You have a point there, though designing considerably different things to what he did back then, while still being completely loyal to the house is no small feat. I mean someone could do Rykiel style knits, or Chanel style jersey looks but the critics would say it’s not Dior. I’m setting the bar low because in that way I can find satisfaction in small things. We may realistically never get the perfect head designer for 100 years. Maybe the perfect designer will never be noticed or have the opportunity. This is an imperfect world we live in.
 
^ You have a good point about setting the bar low so it's easier to like something of the fashions of right now. I've come to accept the fact that you cannot judge something by the same standards as we used to have 10-20 years ago, it's just not the same because so many things have changed, evolved or gone irrelevant. I'm not saying being critical or wanting more about something is bad, but you gotta be aware that these standards have lowered, or even worse, don't exist anymore.
 
Look at you MGC dressing her models to the funeral for House of Dior. Cause of death? MGC. As much as she learned to edit, this is just as uninspiring as putting a model in a gold box. It's not modern. It's not art. It's just plain tacky.
 
MGC and her band of uglies really need to go! How she hasn't bored herself to death by now is beyond me!
 
I know I’m in the minority, but I quite like Maria Grazia’s Dior. I think she’s done a rather authentic and extremely viable update to Dior’s tone and manner and to the look and feel of the clothes.

There’s a documentary out there where they follow the atelier as they put together her first Dior couture collection. Frankly, she’s a lot more impressive behind the scenes than her predecessor. She knows what she wants and how to get the best out of her atelier. I respect that in a designer. You can even tell the petites mains prefer her designs over Raf’s

Yes, this set is like a cheap broadway musical. Yes, the styling makes you cringe a bit. BUT, the clothes are exquisite and faultless in their execution. And I hear they sell quite well.
 
Well this was somber wasn't it? It's like she tried to do a Sarah Burton but didn't have the same lightness and technique.
That’s funny to me because I find Sarah Burton to be extremely heavy handed and this to be far more delicate.
 
Christian Dior may have done ‘H’ and changed the silhouettes but his body of work has always been the same woman, the same type of elegance, same formality and with less variation and evolution than YSL for example.

You say 70s women didn’t want to look 50s, but they were happy to buy vintage? I don’t understand you saying they wouldn’t look to the past but still buy vintage. These are opposite viewpoints.

When I think Dior I think of dovima with elephants, the famous photo. If I go to buy the clothes, I want it to have that iconic visual closeness. If I want futuristic fabrics and wildly cutting edge technology I can find that in any number of other places.

If these new designers are not to your standard I would love to hear what looks you personally would design for the house. Be the change you want to see.

Dior did an an 8, H, A and a Y silhouette.

I think your characterization of Dior is accurate. It’s pretty, feminine, grand clothes with a somewhat regressive... I mean nostalgic look to the past. The Corolla line was based on his pre WWI memories of the Belle Époque S line of his childhood and that more specifically was worn by his mother.

I think Maria is doing the right Dior for the world today. Could it be more exciting? Perhaps. I won’t deny that. But I have gone into the stores and looked at her RTW inside out and I’m sorry, her clothes are as perfect as RTW gets. They’re real clothes that will make real women (real rich women) look and feel beautiful. Not my cup of tea at all, and frankly it doesn’t really matter what I think or what any of us think. We’re not her customers. As far as I’m concerned, Maria Grazia Chiuri is doing her ****ing job.
 
I know I’m in the minority, but I quite like Maria Grazia’s Dior. I think she’s done a rather authentic and extremely viable update to Dior’s tone and manner and to the look and feel of the clothes.

There’s a documentary out there where they follow the atelier as they put together her first Dior couture collection. Frankly, she’s a lot more impressive behind the scenes than her predecessor. She knows what she wants and how to get the best out of her atelier. I respect that in a designer. You can even tell the petites mains prefer her designs over Raf’s

Yes, this set is like a cheap broadway musical. Yes, the styling makes you cringe a bit. BUT, the clothes are exquisite and faultless in their execution. And I hear they sell quite well.

I dislike her, but I have to agree with you. She does what she wants and she does not care about the rest.
 
Just read on WWD, reported by Miles Socha, that Dior has recently reached the 5 Billion euro benchmark in sales and now joins a small but elite club that includes Chanel, Gucci, Hermes and Louis Vuitton.

I don't think Maria Grazia Chiuri is going anywhere anytime soon.
 

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