Christian Dior S/S 2020 Paris
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mistress_f
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Is that... tie dye?
Absolutely NOT
Absolutely NOT
perfect blue
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I’m not a fan of her Dior but it is profitable. I do feel like a house such as Dior deserves innovation and refinement. I haven’t seen that so much in the last few years. The collections are just inoffensive and wearable. Maybe this is what the Dior women wants to wear now. I’m not sure.
I don’t hate her Dior at all, just feel pretty indifferent. My cousins and friends like the clothes though.
I don’t hate her Dior at all, just feel pretty indifferent. My cousins and friends like the clothes though.
perhydrol
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Well, she's been there for the last four years and to be honest, Dior got what it deserved. It's a totally commercial maison with no ambition to be pushing anything forward and this woman who can only "design" a fake-feminist t-shirt is just perfect for her position. Her pieces are sold-outs because they're easy to wear and pretty in a very boring way. Somehow even Zara got more challenging than Dior. With this in mind, I accepted that this house is lost in terms of creativity and in my opinion they should focus on producing lookbooks instead of staged shows. They're just a waste of everyone's time.
Koibito
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Despite the Critics, Maria Grazia Chiuri's Dior Is a Success
By Laure Guilbault
Today’s Christian Dior show may again disappoint critics, but lacklustre reviews haven’t slowed momentum at the house, where sales are expected to grow 26 percent this year, according to Morgan Stanley.
PARIS, France — For her debut show at Dior in September 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuridesigned a collection that flopped with key critics. Her fencing jackets, frilly lace tops, tulle skirts and “We Should All Be Feminists” T-shirts were “cookie-cutter,” according to The Cut’s Cathy Horyn. And let’s not forget the whispers on the front row that, between Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who worked together at Valentino, Dior had picked the wrong designer. In fact, season after season, critics have noted Chiuri’s lack of creative invention and wondered, in the words of Horyn, whether she was the “right designer to lead Dior.”
And yet, customers have lapped up Chiuri’s designs. Total sales of Christian Dior Couture (which includes the much smaller menswear line designed by Kim Jones) are expected to hit €3.2 billion for 2019, up 26 percent from the previous year, surpassing sales at Christian Dior Parfums, the separately managed beauty side of the brand, according to estimates from Morgan Stanley. (In 2016, the year Chiuri joined the company, sales at Christian Dior Couture were a mere €1.9 billion).
To be sure, Chiuri has offered up plenty of Dior clichés. But her re-working of the house codes with an easy-to-wear, modern twist, alongside savvy marketing and merchandising strategies, has been a success.
At their core, Chiuri’s collections are composed of wearable, no-brainer takes on Dior icons like the bar suit and the layered tulle dresses that both heavily reference the archives and flatter a range of body types, speaking to the large segment of consumers who are looking for easy clothes that make a brand statement.
Perhaps this should not come as a surprise. Chiuri is reportedly the designer who created the first-ever "It" bag — the baguette at Fendi, where she started her career. Moving to Valentino in 1999 as accessories designer, she played a role in creating the hugely successful rockstud franchise there.
Bestselling Dior items on parent company LVMH’s multi-brand e-commerce platform 24S include the brand’s slingback pumps, which the site’s Global Buying Director Maud Barrionuevo calls “accessible and easy to wear.” From the ready-to-wear collection, the iconic Dior silhouettes and slogan knits perform best. “She delves into the heritage and brings something else,” Barrionuevo said.
Chiuri is Dior’s first female designer and, according to buyers, this gives her an advantage. “There is something special about a woman designing for women which is what Maria Grazia has tapped into; the clothes are luxurious but also have a degree of comfort and practicality about them,” said Maria Milano, Harrods’ head of womenswear.
Chiuri has also tapped into the cultural zeitgeist. For example, her feminist slogans “arrived at a time when the #MeToo movement was gaining momentum, so there was a captive audience,” explained Milano. "Maria Grazia knows how to talk to women,” added Barrionuevo. “She has a real knowledge of what you want to wear. And at the same time, she carries a very positive message about women that is in tune with the times.” (The set for Dior’s show today is said to reference sustainability).
“A fantastic eye on merchandising” is another of Chiuri’s key skills, according to luxury analyst Mario Ortelli. “Maria Grazia’s ability to produce cleverly merchandised collections have brought increased relevance and desirability for the brand,” added Milano.
When, in 2018, Chiuri brought back Dior’s iconic saddle bag, created by John Gallianoin 1999, the launch was accompanied by a coordinated Instagram blitz involving over 100 influencers. The campaign was an instant hit, generating $3.4 million in earned media value (EMV) for the third quarter of 2018, according to Tribe Dynamics. Dior would not disclose how this translated into sales. (Dior currently ranks high in social media engagement, ranking third amongst luxury brands, behind only Gucci and Chanel, according to Bernstein).
Then, there’s Chiuri’s partnership with Dior Chief Executive Pietro Beccari. “Dior is on fire,” said Bernstein luxury analyst Luca Solca. “I think that the combination of an excellent chief executive and a very effective and commercial creative director is proving [to be] a winner.”
Beccari’s relationship with Chiuri is an important factor in Dior’s success, according to Solca. A fellow Italian, Beccari joined Dior from Fendi and shares with Chiuri a common product and consumer vision: “Beccari is known to be a demanding and sharp leader,” said a former Dior employee. “The partnership between him and Chiuri is proving successful." Added one internal source: “Maria Grazia Chiuri is a bulldozer. She even sets up the showroom for buyers.”
Looking ahead, analysts are bullish on the future of Dior. “We believe that Dior brand sales could grow to more than an estimated €9 billion by 2025 [from an estimated €6.3 billion in 2019] and that the value of the brand today could be €40 billion in LVMH’s Statement Of Position rather than the value of €15-20 billion that is currently priced in,” said a recent report from Kepler Chevreux.
BoF
By Laure Guilbault
Today’s Christian Dior show may again disappoint critics, but lacklustre reviews haven’t slowed momentum at the house, where sales are expected to grow 26 percent this year, according to Morgan Stanley.
PARIS, France — For her debut show at Dior in September 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuridesigned a collection that flopped with key critics. Her fencing jackets, frilly lace tops, tulle skirts and “We Should All Be Feminists” T-shirts were “cookie-cutter,” according to The Cut’s Cathy Horyn. And let’s not forget the whispers on the front row that, between Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who worked together at Valentino, Dior had picked the wrong designer. In fact, season after season, critics have noted Chiuri’s lack of creative invention and wondered, in the words of Horyn, whether she was the “right designer to lead Dior.”
And yet, customers have lapped up Chiuri’s designs. Total sales of Christian Dior Couture (which includes the much smaller menswear line designed by Kim Jones) are expected to hit €3.2 billion for 2019, up 26 percent from the previous year, surpassing sales at Christian Dior Parfums, the separately managed beauty side of the brand, according to estimates from Morgan Stanley. (In 2016, the year Chiuri joined the company, sales at Christian Dior Couture were a mere €1.9 billion).
To be sure, Chiuri has offered up plenty of Dior clichés. But her re-working of the house codes with an easy-to-wear, modern twist, alongside savvy marketing and merchandising strategies, has been a success.
At their core, Chiuri’s collections are composed of wearable, no-brainer takes on Dior icons like the bar suit and the layered tulle dresses that both heavily reference the archives and flatter a range of body types, speaking to the large segment of consumers who are looking for easy clothes that make a brand statement.
Perhaps this should not come as a surprise. Chiuri is reportedly the designer who created the first-ever "It" bag — the baguette at Fendi, where she started her career. Moving to Valentino in 1999 as accessories designer, she played a role in creating the hugely successful rockstud franchise there.
Bestselling Dior items on parent company LVMH’s multi-brand e-commerce platform 24S include the brand’s slingback pumps, which the site’s Global Buying Director Maud Barrionuevo calls “accessible and easy to wear.” From the ready-to-wear collection, the iconic Dior silhouettes and slogan knits perform best. “She delves into the heritage and brings something else,” Barrionuevo said.
Chiuri is Dior’s first female designer and, according to buyers, this gives her an advantage. “There is something special about a woman designing for women which is what Maria Grazia has tapped into; the clothes are luxurious but also have a degree of comfort and practicality about them,” said Maria Milano, Harrods’ head of womenswear.
Chiuri has also tapped into the cultural zeitgeist. For example, her feminist slogans “arrived at a time when the #MeToo movement was gaining momentum, so there was a captive audience,” explained Milano. "Maria Grazia knows how to talk to women,” added Barrionuevo. “She has a real knowledge of what you want to wear. And at the same time, she carries a very positive message about women that is in tune with the times.” (The set for Dior’s show today is said to reference sustainability).
“A fantastic eye on merchandising” is another of Chiuri’s key skills, according to luxury analyst Mario Ortelli. “Maria Grazia’s ability to produce cleverly merchandised collections have brought increased relevance and desirability for the brand,” added Milano.
When, in 2018, Chiuri brought back Dior’s iconic saddle bag, created by John Gallianoin 1999, the launch was accompanied by a coordinated Instagram blitz involving over 100 influencers. The campaign was an instant hit, generating $3.4 million in earned media value (EMV) for the third quarter of 2018, according to Tribe Dynamics. Dior would not disclose how this translated into sales. (Dior currently ranks high in social media engagement, ranking third amongst luxury brands, behind only Gucci and Chanel, according to Bernstein).
Then, there’s Chiuri’s partnership with Dior Chief Executive Pietro Beccari. “Dior is on fire,” said Bernstein luxury analyst Luca Solca. “I think that the combination of an excellent chief executive and a very effective and commercial creative director is proving [to be] a winner.”
Beccari’s relationship with Chiuri is an important factor in Dior’s success, according to Solca. A fellow Italian, Beccari joined Dior from Fendi and shares with Chiuri a common product and consumer vision: “Beccari is known to be a demanding and sharp leader,” said a former Dior employee. “The partnership between him and Chiuri is proving successful." Added one internal source: “Maria Grazia Chiuri is a bulldozer. She even sets up the showroom for buyers.”
Looking ahead, analysts are bullish on the future of Dior. “We believe that Dior brand sales could grow to more than an estimated €9 billion by 2025 [from an estimated €6.3 billion in 2019] and that the value of the brand today could be €40 billion in LVMH’s Statement Of Position rather than the value of €15-20 billion that is currently priced in,” said a recent report from Kepler Chevreux.
BoF
Melancholybaby
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^BoF is bankrolled by LVMH, not a big surprise that they would write something like this. And the fawning quotes from retailers stocking the brand are just the cherry on top of the cake.
On another note, obviously these clothes are all meant to be easily sellable and whatnot but does she have to present the entire showroom on the runway? 90 tedious looks and my eyes were glazing just scrolling through those thumbnails, can't imagine what it's like attending the show.
On another note, obviously these clothes are all meant to be easily sellable and whatnot but does she have to present the entire showroom on the runway? 90 tedious looks and my eyes were glazing just scrolling through those thumbnails, can't imagine what it's like attending the show.
Yuck. Drab, dull and ugly. I wish they'd spent some effort on designing their collections instead of virtue signaling and fishing for political brownie points. I guess they thought their feminist messages were getting old so they went with Greta Thunberg hair instead.
Koibito
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The author sounds bitter about Cathy's words. I'm not sure if she'll have a review for this collection or not, but her last season article was gold:
thecut.com/2019/02/cathy-horyn-fashion-review-of-dior-fall-2019.html
D
Deleted member 7575
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I dislike this collection as much as the rest you but the numbers speak for themselves. She's on course to double their business in the short span of a few years. Fashion is fun and pretty and poetic but it is also an industry. I respect her success.
Maria Grazia Chiuri isn't going anywhere anytime soon.
D
Deleted member 7575
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Don't shoot the messenger, but If you read the article it actually says ready-to-wear and accessories have surpassed beauty and fragrance. It's 3.2 billion euros for Christian Dior Couture, not including Christian Dior Parfums.
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jeanclaude
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Well, it seems Maria-Grazia will stay with us for years to come. And it´s official now: Dior has become another high fashion version of McDonald´s (they both make a lot of money selling crap).
Lola701
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Classic PR strategy for Dior...
We had the same kind of statement when Bill Gaytten was at the helm. It was all about how his safe and beautiful clothes were successful. We had the same kind of statement when Raf became CD...
His Dior refreshed the brand image, he sold a lot of bags, eyewear and thanks to him Dior entered the sneakers market.
In the entire decade of Dior’s creative debacle, the brand was still fairly successful.
It’s so funny that LVMH, that rarely has so many specifics breakdowns of their figures for any brand is so specific now about Dior...Right at the time when MGC is supposed to negotiate her contract.
Dior beauty is not separated from Dior Couture anymore so it’s logical that the second biggest brand of LVMH make this kind of numbers...
We had the same kind of statement when Bill Gaytten was at the helm. It was all about how his safe and beautiful clothes were successful. We had the same kind of statement when Raf became CD...
His Dior refreshed the brand image, he sold a lot of bags, eyewear and thanks to him Dior entered the sneakers market.
In the entire decade of Dior’s creative debacle, the brand was still fairly successful.
It’s so funny that LVMH, that rarely has so many specifics breakdowns of their figures for any brand is so specific now about Dior...Right at the time when MGC is supposed to negotiate her contract.
Dior beauty is not separated from Dior Couture anymore so it’s logical that the second biggest brand of LVMH make this kind of numbers...
D
Deleted member 7575
Guest
The article specifically says that Christian Dior Couture is doing 3.2 Billion euros SEPARATELY from Christian Dior Parfum and has surpassed it.
Melancholybaby
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That's all good. Now let's see a breakdown of product categories. Leather goods vs RTW vs HC. I'm sure Maria's creations won't look as amazing on paper then.
D
Deleted member 7575
Guest
Doesn't really matter, she's in charge of all of it she's MAKING MONEY with it. I'm not trying to defend her clothes, this collection stinks, but it doesn't matter what you and I think. Women are buying it. A lot of it. Enough to up sales nearly 40% since she came on board. That's HUGE. Bernard Arnault must LOVE HER. Because you know what it likes more than good reviews? MONEY.
I know many of you don't want to believe it's doing well, but the numbers are really, really clear and that open interpretation.
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