jeanclaude
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Put Bohan, Galliano and Simons in a turmix blender...and the result is this bunch of clothes trying to look like a cohesive collection.
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The CutThat’s how I felt today at Dior. The company erected a giant box in the Tuileries, with flashing disco lights and a round platform meant to evoke a dance floor, and yet, stylistically speaking, there wasn’t much inside the box. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest collection evidently drew on a 1961 collection by Marc Bohan, known as the Slim Look — because it featured crisp, clean lines and a youthful, Mod sexiness, in contrast with the full-skirted, wasp-waist glamour of Christian Dior’s New Look.
The trouble is the designs, and the feeling behind them, seemed wholly artificial. There are no doubt young, well-brought-up women who might like a pert-looking mini-jumper over a white blouse, or a spring coat in sunny yellow or navy, with low, gold-heeled, black patent mary janes. But beyond a certain cardboard missy type, Chiuri doesn’t seem to be thinking of a flesh-and-blood woman. And what about a Dior customer who is older than, say, 30 and doesn’t have a stick-thin body? Imaginatively, they were shut out of this collection (apart, perhaps, from some coats). And frankly, many of the suits were so blandly polished, and seemingly based on classic Italian or American sportswear, that they looked like uniforms — say, for an airline or upscale boutique.
Also, I didn’t understand the reference to the Roman nightclub, the Piper Club — as the show notes put it, “a sprawling, colorful venue, and an emblem of freedom.” Again, this seems to me nonsense. In the first place, Dior is a French house. It amazes me that its executives allow Chiuri to incorporate so many Italian references in her presentations. The live music for this show was by an Italian group. But that’s not why the club allusion was nonsense. It was that nobody in this big, extravagant box seemed to be having any fun.
spot on.Cathy Horyn’s Review is so on point. Could not agree more with the last sentiments! Bravo Cathy!
The Cut
but i think she played the casual bar jacket look so well, for years. This collection is just so bland...as a consumer I have zero interest in stepping into their boutiques.MGC is MGC