Christian Dior S/S 2026 Paris | Page 5 | the Fashion Spot

Christian Dior S/S 2026 Paris

It's an interesting take how two designers look at a simple bow.

Galliano in these dress seem to focus more of volumetric aspect of it while JW consider far more shape of bow and how to adapt it. Which in end both them did applied in a very similar matter being where they applied in their looks - near shoulders/neck and then waist/hips.
Galliano made women look glamourous.
Today's looks made women look clownish.
Big difference.
 
My thoughts exactly, I do love some pieces and consider the black lace gown delightful, would love to own that piece. But I don’t see how a Dior customer would positively react to this, as it’s so out of scope for what they traditionally buy, it didn’t work with Raf, let’s see how it goes with JW.
I'm not a fan of his at all but there are a lot of wonderful pieces that I i really enjoy from a design perspective. It was a cool new young girl. But how this is going to play at dior i have no idea.
There was also some things that was downright Poorly design over design. Stupid bows. But he did pick my interest.
 
Whew. JWA made it painfully clear that he knows product, not fashion - because what was this? The whole collection felt riddled with choices that betrayed a lack of understanding of cut, drape, and the Dior legacy.

Take the bar jacket: a classic front spliced with a draped, pleated back. Looks like two garments sewn at the shoulders. The blazer with denim mini looked more Gap circa 2003 with Madonna. The lace dress was pretty and technically impressive and was a rare highlight. Then then came the cut-out hip ribbon tie blazer, which again looked like someone had no grasp of how garments are actually constructed and had to cut out that drap bc it would look awkward having the raw edge showing.

The low points stacked up fast: a generic Raf Simons retread plissé top with high-rise pants, the Daffy Duck tuxedo suiting, balloon-hip dresses that flattered no one, and cropped bars that were a disaster. Even the bow dresses - shown three times - read more like frocks for billionaire tweens’ birthday parties than Dior womenswear.

Accessories were no salvation. After countless failed Lady Dior permutations, here we get another misfire. The one-handle version tips outward like a feed bag - who would trust a handbag that already looks insecure?

Then came the “testicle dresses,” proving once again JWA doesn’t understand fabric. Draping jersey over rigid structures naturally creates those fleshy puckers. The green tweed jacket with a blue skirt padded the body to oblivion, while the so-called menswear references landed with a thud. That territory isn’t Dior, and it showed.

The worst offense may have been the draped drop-waist dress with flowers. Criminal. And overall, nothing redeemed the lineup - not even the merchandising. They brought JWA in to deliver hit bags and cool clothes. At this point, it’s clear we have neither.
 
am i going insane or what... because before this i would never put JWA in the same realm/multiverse as galliano and mcqueen. But after this collection i got very strong mcqueen vibes from the collection. I know he was trying to go for Galliano. It's a fresh take on galliano/mcqueen, very light with the colors, less anger, but same direction with techniques and silhouettes.

I am intrigued and I hope he did not do any red carpet looks before this. Hopefully he masters some of the construction too as he work longer with the atelier.

I would say this is what iris van herpen/dilara findikoglu think they're doing but really they are just mimicing without putting their own.
 
it’s a good debut. thank the Gods Ota million apart from whatever MGC used to do.
there are a few extremely good pieces and those were my focus.
he’s experimenting with the house codes and that’s very commendable IMO
I’m super curious to see how will he evolve and what will he do next.
the only minus for me (apart from a couple of looks was that, it missed a little spark.

the cast was rather bland, unfortunately.
 
The collection definitely shows some ambition in regards to the outerwear and some of the fabric manipulations seem very different to what he did at Loewe but the styling is still stuck in that carefree, unpolished and bohemian world he developed before and it works against the collection.

Another thing that bothered me: the miniskirts are a bit too short and it unbalances the silhouette when paired with the heavier top parts.

The more casual looks à la his debut are even more of a nuisance in here, save them for the boutiques.

In short, for Dior this is lacking that French elegance and bourgeois essence — that must seem very alien to him but even Galliano engaged with it, sometimes to subvert it but it was there.
 
This only seems like a strong debut because his soft launch was a debacle. There are definitely some strong pieces in there - I especially the more unconventional 'architectural' silhouettes - but it only looks convincing when compared to the 'sneak peek'.
 
Great debut. Like with the menswear, he did a great balancing job with desirable commercial pieces and playful experimentation. Dior womenswear can often feel too precious and conservative, but he’s the right person to have an understanding of the codes but the vision push it forward, to mess around with it, to make it contemporary and relevant (including the accessories, which were phenomenal). It’s great to see Dior having a strong fashion voice again.
 
I really enjoyed this, and it's been ages since we've seen hats this good on a major runway, so I'll take that gladly. His bar jackets are already more interesting than anything Raf did with the silhouette (and I liked Raf's Dior). The capes are gorgeous, as are the green and brown wool coats and the suede poncho coat. I'm also glad to see the continuation/repetition of the Delft dress cargo shorts here as skirts, and the Junon-inflected lace skirts are sharp and elegant.

Where he loses me is in his importation of various JWA/Loewe-isms. I'm not totally against those propositions (he loves skirts and dresses with architectural undergirding), but they're not quite translating yet. It's an incomplete synthesis, I think, because he doesn't know how to present said proportions through the Dior archive. They still seem too external, hence the awkwardness of the "testicle" dresses, and—though to a lesser extent—the woven dresses that we first saw on Anya Taylor-Joy.

Anyhow, I think this is a very good debut. Hopefully time in the archives and atelier allow him to refine some of the unfinished thoughts here. I think there's a lot here that will sell—great blouses, skirts, coats, etc. So he should be in good stead to work through the thornier, conceptual issues.
 
Loved the historical retelling of a clip in the beginning.
I really liked the collection and admire how he's threading relativity from men's to women's, and we're seeing glimpses of where he'll go with couture. I loved to see some of the most iconic elements of the Christian Dior archive being reintroduced.

Can't wait to see what he does with couture in January. And I love the use of lowercase letters in the logo, back to the original.
 
Another thing that bothered me: the miniskirts are a bit too short and it unbalances the silhouette when paired with the heavier top parts.
I saw a image of a LOEWE look (during JW creative guidance) which resembles a lot structure of really volumous skirt and "top pieces", really short as well.
 

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