Whew. JWA made it painfully clear that he knows product, not fashion - because what was this? The whole collection felt riddled with choices that betrayed a lack of understanding of cut, drape, and the Dior legacy.
Take the bar jacket: a classic front spliced with a draped, pleated back. Looks like two garments sewn at the shoulders. The blazer with denim mini looked more Gap circa 2003 with Madonna. The lace dress was pretty and technically impressive and was a rare highlight. Then then came the cut-out hip ribbon tie blazer, which again looked like someone had no grasp of how garments are actually constructed and had to cut out that drap bc it would look awkward having the raw edge showing.
The low points stacked up fast: a generic Raf Simons retread plissé top with high-rise pants, the Daffy Duck tuxedo suiting, balloon-hip dresses that flattered no one, and cropped bars that were a disaster. Even the bow dresses - shown three times - read more like frocks for billionaire tweens’ birthday parties than Dior womenswear.
Accessories were no salvation. After countless failed Lady Dior permutations, here we get another misfire. The one-handle version tips outward like a feed bag - who would trust a handbag that already looks insecure?
Then came the “testicle dresses,” proving once again JWA doesn’t understand fabric. Draping jersey over rigid structures naturally creates those fleshy puckers. The green tweed jacket with a blue skirt padded the body to oblivion, while the so-called menswear references landed with a thud. That territory isn’t Dior, and it showed.
The worst offense may have been the draped drop-waist dress with flowers. Criminal. And overall, nothing redeemed the lineup - not even the merchandising. They brought JWA in to deliver hit bags and cool clothes. At this point, it’s clear we have neither.