Comme des Garçons F/W 2025.26 Paris

I admire Rei's skill and the fact she pioneered a distinct aesthetic and is still the leader of that aesthetic decades on. Still, at this point, there was a finite number of "new" looks she could invent while remaining true to the image she'd curated. Everything is beginning to blend together, which is a shame because the brillance of the individual creations is lost in the muddle.
 
^ I feel like it’s impossible for her legacy to get diluted into what she’s doing now in her last years. Minus the look avonlea pointed out, nothing here speaks to me at any level but her pieces from her decades of beautiful work still make me skip a heartbeat whenever I come across them.. and I will snatch them as if it was Black Friday, it’s a no brainer for me. I wish she’d do stuff like that again (so I don’t have to feel like a treasure hunter!) but this doesn’t bother me.. in a way, just seeing it knowing it means she’s still around makes me smile.. because these people don’t have a lot of time left..
 
And wouldn't it be wonderful if we lived in a reality where you are in the morning in a bakery and suddenly the women from the first two looks come in and ask for two croissants?
That happens occasionally in Tokyo 🤣

I see a bit of evolution this time, into something more wearable. At least most of the pieces do have the general form of conventional garments, rather than being abstract structures or constructions.

I'm not really plugged in to the CDG universe, but I've noticed in the last few years that the CDG customer has actually become a lot more adventurous. I see people wearing things that would not even have made it to the sales rack in the past. Some of it looks plainly ridiculous, but it's nice to know that Kawakubo continues to push the boundaries.
 
This is exceptional. Mamma Rei really showed up this season, where we’ve seen quite a few of designers toying with abstract forms and striking silhouettes.This is really head and shoulders above the rest. A masterclass, periodt.
 
Oh she saw Marc playing with off-market versions of her paper dolls for some time now and decided to reheat her nachos 😆Jokes aside, love the red velvet cakiness of it, some of the fabrics and textures look virtually delicious. Standouts are the berry hues she used (thankful to see some beautiful colors this season), some of the headwear and the skirts/dresses that spread wide.
 
Two of my favourites are looks 13 and 18, sort of demented versions of the legendary Delphos by Mariano Fortuny.
Love the hanging sleeve on the red, and the button sewn like a jewel on the shocking pink.
 
It's like a cluster of fabric drowned me through screen. I do not love this, it's not for me. But some of it would be immensely fun to illustrate.
 
Oh this is good.

She’s definitely been mining away at this specific silhouette for a few seasons. And while that repetitiveness would annoy me with other designers, I don’t mind it here. The aims aren’t to keep up with trends and/or adhere to seasonal demands, but rather to work through an idea. Moreover, with the business set up with other commercial offerings, this feels like even more of a space for experimentation and craft exploration.

I sometimes do wish there were some silhouette variation or things that were more close to the body — of course done in her own way — but I can’t deny the textures and proportions here are so lovely. I cannot wait to see this in editorials.
 

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