A fashion hook from yesterday
By Jessica Michault International Herald Tribune
TUESDAY, MAY 10, 2005
PARIS
Earlier this year, when Martha Stewart took her first steps of freedom wearing a granny-stitch crochet poncho made by her fellow inmates, some might have thought she had lost her grip on the pulse of American style. But those in the know saw the truth: Even in lockdown, word had gotten through that the hottest trend this season is crochet. Martha still had it.
Say "crochet" and images come to mind of grandma sitting in front of a fire, or hippie chicks wearing big floppy hats and making the peace sign.
But this season those summer-of-love images will be replaced by stylish looks from the likes of Chanel, Prada, Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney and Roberto Cavalli. These are just a few of the designers who have used new technology to bring crochet and the world of handicrafts into the modern age while also celebrating its history.
McCartney, whose crochet bathing suit is worn by Jennifer Lopez on CD insert of her "Rebirth" album, was one of the first designers to introduce crochet into her collection. For McCartney, the appeal of crochet is not only its history but also its versatility. "I like the feminine and delicate texture of crochet and the fact that it is handmade," she said. "It is also quite modern as you can interpret it less literally by using the same techniques but with different fabrics. In this day and age, I feel it is important for the industry to keep such techniques alive."
The use of crochet this season was as inventive as it was diverse. At Fendi it gave a textured and dramatic focus to the waist of a diaphanous gown. At Chanel it was used as accents on bell sleeves and hemlines. And at Prada it appeared on the runway as quirky accessories in the form of oversize necklaces, hats and multicolored flats.
Advances made in the yarns used for crochet (colors, textures, thickness) have made it easier to incorporate the technique into modern clothing designs. The choice of stitch and the amount of tension also affect the way the crochet drapes and contours the body. And the use of embellishments, such as crochet covered with embroidery or encrusted with beads or semiprecious stones, has also helped to update the look.
The mingling of the past and the future has always been a part of fashion. But the return of crochet this season is another indicator that the world of fashion has started to look beyond logos for clothing that will better represent individuality and unique style.
For the Italian handbag designer Lorenza Gandaglia, who incorporates crochet into her one-of-a-kind bags, the popularity of the technique is directly related to women's desire to once again show a distinctive fashion flair. "I believe that women are sort of tired of wearing big branded accessories that shout out about the bag and its brand allure and not the person wearing it, sort of like the accessory wearing the person," Gandaglia says.
But this rediscovered desire for individuality is not the only reason women have been lured back to crochet. Although this season's new interpretations of the craft have made this tradition look modern, its history is also part of the attraction.
With some already calling the '00 decade the "pretty decade" with the return of the full skirts, brooches and ladylike suits that hark back to what grandma used to wear, the renaissance of crochet does not seem so far-fetched. Women are reclaiming styles and looks that represented a way of life the women's movement once fought. The resurgence of these looks and their popularity among modern women illustrate that the image of a stay-at-home mother, placidly crocheting booties for her children, no longer puts fear into the hearts of women.
"There is something nostalgic about crochet for the Kleenex generation, used to throwaway fashion," says Mina D'Ornano, the owner of the Paris boutique minaPoe, a favorite haunt for the likes of Uma Thurman and Vanessa Paradis. "People are starting to appreciate a piece of clothing that can be passed on from one generation to the next. It is reassuring."
At minaPoe handicrafts are celebrated as an art form; all of the items for sale are handmade and use only the most luxurious and noble fabrics. "I tell my sales staff to make sure they have people try on the clothing. It is the only way to really appreciate the workmanship, the silhouette and of course the cozy aspect of the clothes," D'Ornano says.
With the prices of designer clothing skyrocketing, the idea of purchasing a piece of clothing that will stand the test of time seems like a smart investment. Add to that the appeal of wearing something handmade and unique, and it will be difficult to say no to that crochet bikini and matching wrap.
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