Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana - Designers, Creative Directors of Dolce & Gabbana

[JohannesL]

It seems like they don't have a thread so I start this one as they are holding an exhibition recently.

 

[Kanzai]

Stefano's IG is giving

 

[Lola701]

I find it so random for them to have an exhibition in Paris. They should have done it in NYC first…
Love the vintage menswear.

 

[brandon J pierre]

I find it so random for them to have an exhibition in Paris. They should have done it in NYC first…
Love the vintage menswear.

And nothing ever comes to Miami nothing they did have a high-end jewelry exhibition and it was exquisite.

 

[yslforever]

I find it so random for them to have an exhibition in Paris. They should have done it in NYC first…
Love the vintage menswear.

Oh it's a moving exhibition, it was first produced for the Palazzo Reale in Milano in spring 24 (but had little buzz) and they paid a production company to stage the exhibition in various city.

But I stumbled once on a much longer making-off, 45 minutes I believe, can't remember on which platform.

 

[Xone]

the exhibition was very good...in Milan was in 2024...it's gonna be in several cities...

 

[Royal-Galliano]

it seems boring. is it a real retrospective or just a compilation of their repetitive siciliana couture collections from the recent years? it always looked like over the top opera costumes with zero cultural relevance, nothing worthy of such a bombastic tour.

 

[Filipsobkieiwcz]

Hello, I am looking for any information/pictures or videos of the Spring/Summer runway collection for "D&G" (Not the mainline "Dolce & Gabbana") from 1999. There seems to be nothing online, only some fashion advertisements. I would be very glad if someone could share any photos/videos/information about that specific S/S 1999 collection for men. Women's collection is perfectly documented but there is no sign of the menswear collection anywhere. I would also be happy about pictures/videos from D&G menswear collections from 1998 (Both Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer) as these seem to also be lost. Im sure these runways were popular back in 1998/1999 so it seems bizarre theres nothing about these runway shows online. Thank you!

 

[Kanzai]

The first show of Dolce&Gabbana: S/S 1986

Stefano Gabbana: It was October 1984, and at the last hour of the last day of fashion week, we presented our very first collection thanks to the support of Beppe Modenese, who believed in us and selected us among the new talents. That day changed our lives!
We called the collection “Geometrismo.” The models walked out of the backstage as if they were strolling down the street, accompanied by music curated by Radio Deejay. We wanted something the runway had never seen before.
I was 22 and Domenico was 27 — two kids lucky enough to showcase in Milan, the “Temple of Fashion,” where giants like Armani, Versace, Krizia, Ferrè, Missoni, and many others ruled the stage! The great #MadeInItaly. We had no idea what was about to happen; all we knew was that we loved fashion, and we deeply loved each other!

Stefano Gabbana: For our first runway show, we thought we needed a big company behind us to produce our designs if we wanted to compete with the major fashion brands.
Not long after, we actually found one (they also produced for Romeo Gigli and Callaghan). They gave us a letter of commitment, bought the fabrics, and assembled the collection — but after the show, the sales director locked the entire collection away to stop it from being sold! The reasons are too long to explain.
By November, with that same letter still in our hands, they kicked us out — and we suddenly found ourselves with international attention, but no manufacturer. Just me and Domenico, alone, with 2 million lire, no collection, and no clear future.
But we never lost heart. “Move forward and persist” — that became our motto.

Stefano Gabbana: It was our very first runway show — we didn’t really know what message we wanted to communicate! We just loved fashion! We realized we were different from everyone else: we used jersey, linen, plastic, and the first stretch fabrics, all proudly made in Italy! And all the accessories were crafted for us by the talented Rossana Buriassi!

 

[Kanzai]

2nd show of Dolce&Gabbana: F/W 1986

Stefano Gabbana: After we were dropped by the company, we started searching for a new manufacturer. We picked up the phone and called absolutely everyone — and to this day, we’ve still never received a reply. Meanwhile, I had already ordered fabrics for the winter collection.
When November came, we realized no one was interested in working with us. I had to cancel the fabric orders, and soon after, we went to Polizzi Generosa to spend Christmas with Domenico’s family. We shared our struggles with them, and they offered their support, telling us: “We don’t have much, but with what we have, we can help you make the collection!” But by then, I had already canceled the fabric orders.
That year, Milan was hit by an exceptional snowstorm, which blocked everything — including my cancellation letters, which never reached their destination. So, all the fabrics were delivered anyway, and we ended up making the collection. But we didn’t have enough money to pay for models, makeup artists, or a venue. So we asked all our friends if they’d walk the runway for us: “Real Women” — and that’s how we came up with the name for our second collection! It was a huge success in the press, but not so much commercially.
Oh, and I almost forgot! To create the backstage area, we used bedsheets from our own home — but they weren’t long enough, so everyone’s feet were still visible!

Stefano Gabbana: For our second collection, we used different materials in a new way: there was a sweatshirt coat, one made from rubberized wool, a double-layered jacket... all technical fabrics. Domenico was especially fond of stretch materials. But honestly, we still hadn’t figured out our style yet — we were simply making what we liked at the time.
We were helped by many fabric manufacturers to whom we’re still very grateful, like Lanificio Pecci, who gifted us the fabrics! As for shoes and accessories, we asked the “Real Women” to wear their own, because we didn’t have the money to make them. It was a success with the press! It was something totally new! It was the first time real women had ever walked a runway!

 

[Kanzai]

Dolce&Gabbana: S/S 1987

Stefano Gabbana: I remember that year they offered us a bigger apartment in the same building where we had our tiny office. With the little money we had saved from the previous collection, we decided to rent it. There was a huge room, and that’s when we decided to organize our fashion show right there.

That Saturday everything was ready! Domenico’s mother, with her linen napkins and the brioche she brought for the guests, added a special touch of warmth and love to the morning.

We had named our collection “Transformismo.” It was a tribute to versatility and innovation. Every piece was unique — with special details, stretch fabrics, reversible garments, and velcro strips that allowed the looks to be transformed with just a few simple moves.

At 4 PM, buyers from the world’s most important stores arrived. Domenico and I didn’t speak English. Our presentation was a funny mix of English and Italian (we started the first sentence in English, and then quickly switched back to Italian). It was amazing to see how interested they were in our collection!

That night, we worked late into the evening writing down the orders. We were happy to be there, fully aware that this was just the beginning of our journey.
@iammarpessa @celyvent ❤️❤️

Stefano Gabbana: For the “Transformismo” collection, we designed clothes that weren’t just simple garments but pieces that allowed women to wear them in different ways. The same dress could serve multiple purposes. That’s exactly where the collection got its name.

At one point, around 7 PM, we found ourselves in the office surrounded by some of the best clients in the world: “Browns” from London, “Ultimo” from Chicago, “Charivari” and “Bergdorf Goodman” from New York, “Occhetta Bis” from Portofino, “Top One” from Alassio, “Luisa via Roma” from Florence — basically all the trendiest stores of that moment.
@iammarpessa ❤️ @celyvent ❤️

Stefano Gabbana: They were tunics, dresses, and skirts made from brown organza, covered with snap buttons. You could widen them, tighten them, lengthen or shorten them, or create special drapes.

A few days before the show, @pieropiazzi — a friend to whom we owe so much — came to our office to introduce us to @iammarpessa. She arrived on a Vespa, wearing a miniskirt and a bottle-green Alaïa crop sweater. We instantly fell in love with her. She was the woman we wanted to dress, the one who represented us the most. Her arrival sparked an immediate obsession in us. Marpessa became our muse, inspiring our collections and forever changing the course of our creative destiny.

Stefano Gabbana: Another muse who inspired us greatly was Anna Magnani, an icon of strength and inner depth. Her magnetic presence on screen and her ability to convey genuine emotions made her unforgettable. Celebrating women like her — mothers, workers, lovers, and friends — has always been our goal. We were inspired by her when, together with @anto__antonelli and @fabrizioferriofficial, we decided to shoot our first advertising campaign in Pantelleria in 1986. Among the palm trees and prickly pears, there was a strong and charismatic woman like her: Amira Casar.

Stefano Gabbana: @fabrizioferriofficial and @anto__antonelli helped us realize that our path was Sicily. An Italian story.

Stefano Gabbana: It was our first time in Pantelleria, a place in Sicily unknown to us. We fell in love with it.
Here are some shots from our first campaign, photographed by @fabrizioferriofficial with Amira Casar and styling by @anto__antonelli, to whom we will always be grateful.

 

[Kanzai]

Stefano, Domenico, Amira, and @anto__antonelli, photographed by @fabrizioferriofficial at Lago di Venere, Pantelleria (1986).

 

[Kanzai]

Dolce&Gabbana: F/W 1987

Stefano Gabbana: Suddenly, I felt that Sicily was our path. I talked to Domenico about it, but he wasn't convinced; he had left his homeland because the traditions felt too tight for him: crochet, ceramics, the Sicilian cart, pasta alla Norma. I, on the other hand, was fascinated by its culture.
In the end, I managed to convince him. From there, with "La Sicilia," we began to talk about the island and its traditions, and to design and create collections almost entirely dedicated to its land.

Stefano Gabbana: We discovered classical music thanks to Nicoletta Gasperini, a journalist who worked at "Donna," who taught us everything. We immediately fell in love with it, finding it a perfect match for the fashion we were making. She often invited us to dinner and told us all about the operas!!!

Stefano Gabbana: Although we had started talking about Sicily, we still kept elements of “Transformism.” Dresses and skirts made of jersey with rings that attached to men's buttons, which could be tightened, loosened, lengthened, or shortened, changing the shape of the garment in a play of drapes. Even our discovery of Sicily was in transformation.

Stefano Gabbana: Our collection was almost entirely made of jersey, used for coats, skirts, dresses, and T-shirts. The rest was poplin for shirts. In this case, for example, we would take an elastic band shorter than the fabric and sew it while pulling the fabric itself. This process created drapes that gave the garments a plastic look, with shadows and shapes similar to modeling clay. There was "Transformism," but also a lot of Sicily. I remember that after our vacation together in Palermo, everything changed.

 

[bc collector]

I look at those old videos and think: they were much edgier back then

 

[Kanzai]

Dolce&Gabbana F/W 1987: Marpessa by Ferdinando Scianna

Stefano Gabbana: During a vacation in Palermo, we saw a poster for an exhibition featuring a woman nude, covered only by a shawl, leaning out of a balcony. I said to Domenico, "We absolutely have to do something like this!"
Thanks to the help of our friend Silvana Torregrossa, we got the phone number of @ferdinandosciannaofficial. We were fascinated by his genius! We called him about fifty times without getting a response, until we decided to try one last time, on a Sunday afternoon in the office. Finally, he answered.
We introduced ourselves, explaining that we were inspired by Sicily and wanted him to photograph our fashion. He replied that he was a photojournalist, not a fashion photographer. And that’s exactly what we liked!
The maestro gave us an appointment, and we went to his house, managing to convince him to embark on this adventure with us. Soon after, we started shooting between Palermo, Ragusa, and Caltagirone.
Our second advertising campaign, featuring @iammarpessa and the invaluable support of @anto__antonelli, shocked everyone when it came out. It was something completely different from the clichés of fashion communication at the time.

Stefano Gabbana: Caltagirone, Acitrezza, and Palermo. We traveled without a precise destination, exploring Sicily in a white Ford station wagon loaned to us by Domenico’s brother-in-law. @anto__antonelli and I dressed @iammarpessa, while Antonio, with his skilled hands, perfected her hair for each shot.

Domenico was our driver, steering us through the island’s winding roads. Every time @ferdinandosciannaofficial said, "Let’s stop!" we would immediately pull over, ready to shoot. There was no time for rehearsals, everything happened with pure spontaneity.

Every stop, every photo, was a small masterpiece (and today, a great memory) born from our shared journey and the passion that united us all.

Stefano Gabbana:
One thing I’ve always appreciated about myself and Domenico is the spontaneity that has defined us from the very beginning. Just like the photos taken by master @ferdinandosciannaofficial — immediate and full of emotion. The choice of black and white made those shots truly unique, as did the selection of the places — the landscapes of his childhood — that the master wanted to tell through our fashion.

@iammarpessa embodied the woman and the Sicily we loved the most, the truest and most genuine one. This allowed us to create something truly unique, something I will always carry in my heart, along with the memory of those days — of the two of us, in love and wonderfully reckless. Our muse and obsession.

Stefano Gabbana: The truth is, we didn’t have the budget for a makeup artist — so @iammarpessa, besides being naturally stunning, took care of her own makeup between one shot and the next. It was incredible: she was always radiant, a true Top Model! @ferdinandosciannaofficial even captured her in a shot while she was doing her final touch-ups in the car, near Ragusa. Nothing could stop us!

 

[Kanzai]

"Domenico and I in the car in Ragusa, captured by Maestro Ferdinando Scianna. Portraits of two young designers, in love with Sicily, with @ferdinandosciannaofficial, with @iammarpessa, with @anto__antonelli, and with fashion."

 

[Kanzai]

Dolce&Gabbana S/S 1988

Stefano Gabbana:
@iammarpessa opened the show for our Spring-Summer 1988 collection: Il Gattopardo. A famous novel by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, later adapted into a film by one of the greatest masters of Italian Neorealism, Luchino Visconti. We immediately fell in love with its story and with Visconti’s cinematography — with how, through his lens, he masterfully celebrated the concept of Sicilianità: the pride and strength that have always defined Sicilian people and that make this land so unique and beautiful.

I am infinitely grateful for having met Sicilians in my life — I am speaking of Domenico and his family. Without them, I would never have become the person I am today.

Stefano Gabbana:
For the Spring-Summer 1988 collection, Domenico and I were so in love with the film Il Gattopardo that we decided to name the collection after Visconti’s masterpiece. Not only that — we also used some of the original dialogues from the movie as the soundtrack for the show.
@celyvent @bettyprado @mbuccellati_ @bettylago ❤️❤️❤️❤️

Stefano Gabbana:
That year, in Gap and Fashion — the magazines that talked about new trends and published previews of upcoming collections — everyone was showcasing mini skirts, leggings, and wide shoulders. I still remember when Domenico and I looked at those magazines and told each other: “This is going to end badly! The game’s over!” But, in fact, the exact opposite happened! Proposing something completely out of the box for our Spring-Summer 1988 collection allowed us to outshine everyone, and the response was overwhelming. Il Gattopardo turned out to be an international success!

Stefano Gabbana:
For the Spring-Summer 1988 collection, we also presented a series of looks in "Nude" tones, inspired by corrective corsetry. Long elastic jackets that, once unbuttoned, revealed our very first corsets — feminine and, I must say, quite “bold” for that time. With every exit, dress after dress, the "Nude" slowly gave way to Black — the unmistakable #DolceGabbana signature. All this, accompanied by the dialogues and music from Luchino Visconti’s film Il Gattopardo, the masterpiece that inspired the collection’s name.

 

[Kanzai]

"The finale of every show has always been a delicate moment for us. Even though we step out to thank our audience, each runway show feels like a deeply intimate and personal experience. I still remember how, that time, it was @iammarpessa who pushed us onto the stage with all her vibrant energy. Thanks to her, that moment turned into one of pure joy and heartfelt gratitude, something we could share with everyone."

 

[Kanzai]

Stefano Gabbana: At the beginning of our career, we were fortunate to be supported by two extraordinary women who played a crucial role in shaping our journey.
#MarinaFausti, who at the time was the director of MODA, offered us invaluable support, guiding us and encouraging us with genuine passion.

Another figure who marked our rise was @gisella_borioli_lucchini. Her trust and support were fundamental, and we will never forget them.
To our great surprise, she dedicated our very first cover to us — an entirely unexpected gesture that opened new doors and opportunities.
It is one of the most iconic images of our early work, captured by the master @giovanni_gastel, portraying @iammarpessa wearing one of my favorite dresses from the “Il Gattopardo” collection.

We will never forget the support we received from Marina and Gisella; their contribution left an indelible mark on our professional path, and we will be forever grateful to them.