Deconstructivism in Fashion

[Squizree]

I was contemplating as to which forum I should create this thread under but I settled for this one, so please move it if it's not the appropriate one

One of the stylistic techniques that has fascinated me the most in fashion is deconstruction. I think there's something extremely organic and unapologetic about the process of deconstructing a piece of clothing to its semi-original state. I feel like it's a deliberate defeat over a piece's structural integrity. At the same time there's something as equally paradoxical about it, because it's a controlled kind of chaos; the way in which the pieces are carefully disassembled and then reassembled into something else entirely. This is what interests me the most.

I know that desconstruction in fashion was especially on the rise during the 1980s and that Margiela was particularly famous for it:

S/S 2001:

designboom

F/W 02.03

stylebistro

S/S 2005:

stylebistro


S/S 2007

stylebistro

S/S 2006

stylebistro, style

 

[Squizree]

I also just wanna say that deconstructivism has made its way down to numerous mainstream designers, but obviously through a much more commercial angle. Just a few examples:

Salavatore Ferragamo F/W 08.09

stylebistro

Versace Fall 10.11

stylebistro

Marc Jacobs S/S 2008

style

 

[christian zh]

I think that Gareth Pugh & Alexander McQueen are the kings of deconstructivism.

Alexander McQueen
S/S 2008 | S/S 2009 | F/W 2009

Gareth Pugh
S/S 2009 | S/S 2010 | F/W 2010

-stylebistro

 

[lucy92]

what about designers that put the seams outside the garment? would you consider that deconstructionist?

 

[Squizree]

^ Of course. It's all part of the revealing of the inner construction of a garment.

 

[Chanelcouture09]

Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall Winter 2005/06

Christian Dior RTW Spring Summer 2006

*Style.com

 

[Chanelcouture09]

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2007

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2008

*Style.com

 

[Squizree]

I want to post some more examples, but my internet has slowed down to a crawl lol will do when it's good again.

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

Oh man, this has always been one of my favorite trends in fashion It was at a prime example for me during Fall 2006 and Spring 2007, I loved all the clothes that looked like they were falling apart and had seams on the outside of the garment.

I feel like the recession had kind of hindered this trend though, because when people have to pinch their pennies, most probably wouldn't want to buy things that look half done

 

[Chanelcouture09]

^As you pointed out, this is very much a trend, So I've moved it here to Trend Spotting....

 

[kissmesweet]

I love this thread. Such great observations, Squizree and everyone.

 

[Chanelcouture09]

Alber illustrates this wonderfully...

Lanvin Fall Winter 2010

*Style.com

 

[Squizree]

Who still does this well in 2025?

 

[lostinheaven]

The biggest young names pushing deconstructivist fashion right now are Marie-Adam Leenaerdt (She recently did a show with a lot of grey wool felt tailoring, her work has yet to escape the shadow of her time at balenciaga), Julie Kegels and Elena Hodakova, Junya Watanabe's fall show was obviously a masterclass in the style.... plenty of smaller indie bands that like to claim adherence to the approach but we will see if that sticks as they grow. lord knows it hasn't with eckhaus latta. August Barron (fka All-In) is a fashmag-cum-brand that does a lot of trompe-loeil, pieces with styling forced by the construction, hybridized garments, though its more glamorous than a lot of what Margiela/Lang/Bikkembergs did.