Derek Lam S/S 2014 New York

[Marc10]

style

 

[Marc10]

style

 

[HeatherAnne]

To me he is just grasping at straws at this point. It's like he eyeballed popular recent collections from the likes of: Kane, Proenza, Marant, Celine and did a knockoff collection from the best elements of each of them. In the end, the collection lacks any cohesion and is totally weird. The gowns at the end are embarrassingly bad.

 

[disco54]

^ He was good several seasons ago but, the past 2 years his clothes have really gone down hill and your right he really is grasping straws.

 

[FashionFanatico]

supersuperbad. even set light and make up are a disaster. he not only tried to copy celine in a bad way also wangs knee high gladiator sandals... very sad.

 

[Bernadette]

September 08, 2013 New York
By Nicole Phelps

Clothes you want to wear. That shouldn't be a novelty at a fashion show, yet somehow it is. We bring it up in the context of Derek Lam because, last season and today, clothes you want have been what he's put on the runway. For Fall he was talking about control; this afternoon, the topic on his mind was letting go of it. Either way, the results were dependably chic: all-American sportswear with refreshed proportions and little idiosyncratic twists.

"We're going into our tenth year, and it's been a tumultuous one," Lam said backstage, referring to how he and his partner, Jan-Hendrik Schlottmann, bought back his company from Labelux last November. "Design-wise, my tendency is to look at clothes in a minute way. The challenge was to allow playfulness." Pulling back like he did lent the clothes an appealing minimalism. Not much in the way of embellishments, save for some raffia fringe trim, but plenty of interesting textures. Textures including the printed jersey of a crisscross-back vest and matching pants that read like tweed bouclé, or the hand-painted guipure lace of dresses over which he layered spongy crepe cropped tops. We've seen lots of denim on the runway this week, but nothing quite as cool as his dark indigo belted dress with the kicky volume in front.

As for those idiosyncratic twists, they were literal this season. Riffing on the idea of wrapping a towel on the body, he made a strapless yellow crepe georgette gown with a tucking detail below the bust that really did look about as easy as stepping out of the shower and reaching for the terrycloth. Gorgeous.

Source: style.com

 

[HeatherAnne]

supersuperbad. even set light and make up are a disaster. he not only tried to copy celine in a bad way also wangs knee high gladiator sandals... very sad.

Lam's been doing gladiators like this for years, long before Wang.

In fact, his older collections with gladiators were some of his best and featured really gorgeous/cool tailoring.

 

[liberty33r1b]

I actually quite like this. granted, his references from other designers are apparent, but on the whole this looks sophisticated and very wearable. the day dresses are especially nice

 

[elle_gb]

I like it too I think the same the whole collection is sophisticated and wearable.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

I agree that he's gone downhill the last couple of seasons.

The second half of this collection, after the gingham, is better, but nothing to write home about.

 

[YOYD]

The reference to stella and Celine are apparent in the plaids - I think the show was good however he's failing to get the recognition received by his peers and I think that's because he struggles with a vision.

 

[GERGIN]

I've lost all hope in Derek Lam, this was a waste of a show.

 

[ad31214]

It kind of felt like a B-list Marni Spring 2013...

 

[Crying Diamonds]

The first part of the show boasted silhouettes from Prada spring 2011, followed by huge-belt and huge-pocket coats by Celine and Calvin Klein.