Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[tricotineacetat]

Since y'all were musing who would make for a great replacement for Peter Mulier at Alaia - The one designer I would love, love, LOVE to see there would be Narciso Rodriguez. I don't think it would come to happen, but it would at least be a perfect fit. 😍

 

[fenty]

I think he's firs collection literally hit stores about a month ago, so might be too soon to tell. But it seems like people are loving that smile Phantom. No comment lol.

That bag looks awful is the bag pleather or real leather?

 

[Caffeine]

Since y'all were musing who would make for a great replacement for Peter Mulier at Alaia - The one designer I would love, love, LOVE to see there would be Narciso Rodriguez. I don't think it would come to happen, but it would at least be a perfect fit. 😍

His clothes fit too well. Not ugly enough.

 

[imjustken]

Aww, poor Narciso. The fit of this suit is still imprinted in my mind, razor-sharp !

I thought he was still active but I can't see any new collections since 2020. What a shame !

 

[KilltheLook]

My dream wedding dress is still from him. I hope by the time i'm engaged he's still around, to make me the dress he promised my mom a long time ago he would make for me.

Aww, poor Narciso. The fit of this suit is still imprinted in my mind, razor-sharp !
View attachment 1441064
I thought he was still active but I can't see any new collections since 2020. What a shame !

 

[PDFSD]

He will curate. That’s what people do anyway no?

To be a curator one must have a story to tell .....we seen at Ferragamo he is lost in translation.
Getting the job does not mean one deserves it we seen so many weak mid appointments and the recycling of unsuccessful creative directors to just keep producing what ??? more landfill /sales rack stuff.
When peter who is already a pretentious technical conceptualist and is struggling with the Alaia archives i think the brand will be worse off with Davis.

 

[Lola701]

Aww, poor Narciso. The fit of this suit is still imprinted in my mind, razor-sharp !
View attachment 1441064
I thought he was still active but I can't see any new collections since 2020. What a shame !

He announced this year that he was returning to fashion following the Zara collab from a few years ago.
He can be considered as active then..

 

[Lola701]

To be a curator one must have a story to tell .....we seen at Ferragamo he is lost in translation.
Getting the job does not mean one deserves it we seen so many weak mid appointments and the recycling of unsuccessful creative directors to just keep producing what ??? more landfill /sales rack stuff.
When peter who is already a pretentious technical conceptualist and is struggling with the Alaia archives i think the brand will be worse off with Davis.

Who would you want to see at Alaia?

 

[PDFSD]

Who would you want to see at Alaia?

would be someone we dont know that is good and humble enough to take the job on with more care to the authentic legacy of ALAIA.
hopefully someone with actual skill about construction and also culture .

Someone that understand these values that Azzedine said :
It's important to make women feel confident, because I think they are more important than men.
My obsession is to make women beautiful. When you create with that in mind, things can't go out of fashion.
I work for women. I only think for them. If I didn't like women, I wouldn't do this job.
I think women should be seductive, not triste. There's enough sadness in life now without making women look sad, too.
I am never sure that anything's good enough. Something that is good today will not be good tomorrow.
The danger is we're losing sight of what women really want to wear.
I never followed fashion. It's women who have dictated my conduct
I'm always telling young designers to take the time to surround themselves with women.
I make clothes; women make fashion.
There is a sensuality about fabric. I think all materials should be inviting when they touch the skin. When I watch children stroking their mother's clothes, I feel that I have succeeded.

 

[imjustken]

I second this. A technician would be great, a couturier, not a conceptualist. Someone who actually cuts and sews, like Alaïa did. More than technician, I think Alaïa was a clients' designer. He wasn't necessarily interested in collections, shows, brand image, ad campaigns, all the rest of it. It was all about the clothes and how they fit on the body and how they make the wearer feel. I think he had a very direct relationship with his clients which were often friends. I don't think anybody in fashion really does that these days. No one has the humility, except for tailors, lol.

 

[Caffeine]

would be someone we dont know that is good and humble enough to take the job on with more care to the authentic legacy of ALAIA.
hopefully someone with actual skill about construction and also culture .

Someone that understand these values that Azzedine said :
It's important to make women feel confident, because I think they are more important than men.
My obsession is to make women beautiful. When you create with that in mind, things can't go out of fashion.
I work for women. I only think for them. If I didn't like women, I wouldn't do this job.
I think women should be seductive, not triste. There's enough sadness in life now without making women look sad, too.
I am never sure that anything's good enough. Something that is good today will not be good tomorrow.
The danger is we're losing sight of what women really want to wear.
I never followed fashion. It's women who have dictated my conduct
I'm always telling young designers to take the time to surround themselves with women.
I make clothes; women make fashion.
There is a sensuality about fabric. I think all materials should be inviting when they touch the skin. When I watch children stroking their mother's clothes, I feel that I have succeeded.

this seems to have been lost among the young guns.

 

[PDFSD]

I second this. A technician would be great, a couturier, not a conceptualist. Someone who actually cuts and sews, like Alaïa did. More than technician, I think Alaïa was a clients' designer. He wasn't necessarily interested in collections, shows, brand image, ad campaigns, all the rest of it. It was all about the clothes and how they fit on the body and how they make the wearer feel. I think he had a very direct relationship with his clients which were often friends. I don't think anybody in fashion really does that these days. No one has the humility, except for tailors, lol.

i think would make the brand very chic again to be more direct relationship with his clients how it was to counterbalance how pop the brand became.
they can still do merch online but well made not wolford spandex clothes with some ruffles or foam tubes.
but greed & ignorance is bigger these days.

 

[Lola701]

would be someone we dont know that is good and humble enough to take the job on with more care to the authentic legacy of ALAIA.
hopefully someone with actual skill about construction and also culture .

Someone that understand these values that Azzedine said :
It's important to make women feel confident, because I think they are more important than men.
My obsession is to make women beautiful. When you create with that in mind, things can't go out of fashion.
I work for women. I only think for them. If I didn't like women, I wouldn't do this job.
I think women should be seductive, not triste. There's enough sadness in life now without making women look sad, too.
I am never sure that anything's good enough. Something that is good today will not be good tomorrow.
The danger is we're losing sight of what women really want to wear.
I never followed fashion. It's women who have dictated my conduct
I'm always telling young designers to take the time to surround themselves with women.
I make clothes; women make fashion.
There is a sensuality about fabric. I think all materials should be inviting when they touch the skin. When I watch children stroking their mother's clothes, I feel that I have succeeded.

I agree with everything but you don’t have a name in mind?
Someone we don’t know is a gamble that may not happen…

For me the Standing Ground guy who is also doing Alaia (tbh) would be great. Does he has what it takes though to fit in that eco-system?

 

[imjustken]

I think you're right. I think it really is about corporate greed. Just like Loro Piana, the Alaïa CEO wanted to make some money so he/she hired a trendy designer. I have nothing against Pieter, I think he's a very nice guy but he doesn't carry out the heritage of Alaïa because he's not a technician himself. He doesn't have the passion to make clothes himself and to work with his clients like Azzedine did. No fashion brand owners these days understands that some of the most beloved and enduring brands started with someone making one piece of garment for one client with their own hands. Everybody follows the LVMH script of growing the brand endlessly. Some brands are beautiful because they are small. Some designers work best when they don't have to sell to millions. Alaïa rebelled against the whole fashion system. He criticized Karl a lot because the whole industry aligned itself on his insane rhythm of putting out I don't know how many collections per year. Only he could do it. That's why the quality of design is so bad these days. Big quantities over good quality.

 

[imjustken]

I agree with everything but you don’t have a name in mind?
Someone we don’t know is a gamble that may not happen…

For me the Standing Ground guy who is also doing Alaia (tbh) would be great. Does he has what it takes though to fit in that eco-system?

Your whole reasoning is wrong. Skill doesn't need a famous name.

 

[imjustken]

I'm so tired of thinking from the point of the view of the brand, and not from the point of view of creation. F*ck these greedy brands who want a star designer to make the most money. I'm so tired of thinking how to serve big money. I wanna serve myself. I wanna see beautiful clothes, I don't care which brands they come from ! Big brands should invest in small designers and stop trying to recruit them for their big brands, use and abuse them for a couple of years and then dump them like they're f*ck sh*t !

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Galliano for Alaia! Marc for Alaia!

Sharon Wauchob could also be a good fit for Alaia, but her designs tend to be a bit too loose in shape. Bouchra Jarrar?

Definitely no to Standing Ground—I forgot about him because he's a one-trick pony like Nensi.

I wonder if Victoire de Castellane could design clothes? She wears so much Alaia herself!

 

[Lola701]

Your whole reasoning is wrong. Skill doesn't need a famous name.

Im not asking for a famous name but for a name…To have an idea of their aesthetic and envision what it could look like at Alaia, for the purpose of the discussion.

Because the position could be given to any number 2/3 from any other studio. But if I go from that postulat, there’s no need for any conversation then…

 

[fashionmarketeditor]

Lauren Sherman at Puck just basically confirmed Pieter Mulier will be the new CD at Versace if someone can post the link 👀 and apparently the in-house team will design the runway collection this February.

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

Lauren Sherman at Puck just basically confirmed Pieter Mulier will be the new CD at Versace if someone can post the link 👀

Noooooooo! I want him in womanly airy-fairy Alaia.