Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

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thinking well about this: I’d rather have this direction of making/selling classics and archive. It’s a win/win situation. Obviously the main goal would be closing the brand; I will never understand why people refuses to close a brand that already made everything.
This is something that always comes to my mind when I think of Comme des Garçons. Because let’s face it: I don’t know if someone can be able to continue her legacy, ever.
 
Very interesting rumor! Will she be doing her own line on top of Alaia?
 
helmutnotdead said:
thinking well about this: I’d rather have this direction of making/selling classics and archive. It’s a win/win situation. Obviously the main goal would be closing the brand; I will never understand why people refuses to close a brand that already made everything.
This is something that always comes to my mind when I think of Comme des Garçons. Because let’s face it: I don’t know if someone can be able to continue her legacy, ever.
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I think a house like Alaia can survive with that formula for a long long time. Maybe they needs someone in the design team to propose some pieces that are interpretations of archives pieces but I think growth (this is what interest Richemont after all) will come with expanding the distribution, elevate the communication and expanding maybe with jewelry like they did with fragrances. The DNA of the brand is so strong and recognizable that they can do that without having a creative director...

It’s kinda amazing that a house so linked with supermodels doesn’t work with any of them for their communication. Naomi should be the face of the fragrance! The castings for the presentations should be insane and their PR should be alert!

Regarding CDG, I think she has groomed so many talents (and some of them are in the CDG umbrella) that anyone of them can takeover. I think the way the machine is oiled, the transition will be smoother than ever...

jeanclaude said:
I can´t picture Philo minimalism at Alaïa...what´s next, Lacroix for Calvin Klein??
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I don’t ever consider her as a minimalist. Her work for Celine and Chloé has proved a versatility. It’s more a question of sensibility when it comes to feminity! Because, if you really pay attention, Alaia is very structured clothes, simples lines and a very simple palette. The more fun pieces of his repertoires are the various prints he does but that’s all...

I just don’t think that she can totally detached herself from the creative process.

I can see so many designers before Philo to do Alaia: Vanessa Seward, Julie de Libran, Alexandre Vauthier, Antonio Berardi, Pagliangula (his work for Vionnet was good), the guys from Aquilano Rimondi...etc.
Alaia needs someone with experience, not some young designer.
 
Lola701 said:
I think a house like Alaia can survive with that formula for a long long time. Maybe they needs someone in the design team to propose some pieces that are interpretations of archives pieces but I think growth (this is what interest Richemont after all) will come with expanding the distribution, elevate the communication and expanding maybe with jewelry like they did with fragrances. The DNA of the brand is so strong and recognizable that they can do that without having a creative director...

It’s kinda amazing that a house so linked with supermodels doesn’t work with any of them for their communication. Naomi should be the face of the fragrance! The castings for the presentations should be insane and their PR should be alert!

Regarding CDG, I think she has groomed so many talents (and some of them are in the CDG umbrella) that anyone of them can takeover. I think the way the machine is oiled, the transition will be smoother than ever...


I don’t ever consider her as a minimalist. Her work for Celine and Chloé has proved a versatility. It’s more a question of sensibility when it comes to feminity! Because, if you really pay attention, Alaia is very structured clothes, simples lines and a very simple palette. The more fun pieces of his repertoires are the various prints he does but that’s all...

I just don’t think that she can totally detached herself from the creative process.

I can see so many designers before Philo to do Alaia: Vanessa Seward, Julie de Libran, Alexandre Vauthier, Antonio Berardi, Pagliangula (his work for Vionnet was good), the guys from Aquilano Rimondi...etc.
Alaia needs someone with experience, not some young designer.
Click to expand...

Philo´s work is intellectual, stylish, avant-gardish...but sex is not present at all. I just think about Alaïa satin dresses from the 80s, the leather ones with zippers around the body, the leopard ultra-tight looks...and I can´t imagine Phoebe playing with sex factor!

Do you know who I could see at Alaïa...Tom Ford! But it is just an insane wet dream of mine...
 
I'd love to see Clare Waight Keller working for Alaia but she would have to develop a strong POV for the brand, just like she did with Chloé at one point. She would be a better choice than Phoebe Philo tbh. Btw wasn't Phoebe supposed to set up her own thing under Richemont?
 
jeanclaude said:
Philo´s work is intellectual, stylish, avant-gardish...but sex is not present at all. I just think about Alaïa satin dresses from the 80s, the leather ones with zippers around the body, the leopard ultra-tight looks...and I can´t imagine Phoebe playing with sex factor!

Do you know who I could see at Alaïa...Tom Ford! But it is just an insane wet dream of mine...
Click to expand...
Exactly! You described exactly the gap with Alaia but I must say that one of the most interesting part about Alaia’s work is his clientele...His clientele couldn’t be more different with our preconceived ideas of what they should be like. A good designer could exactly play With that. I was always interested in some of the very « modest inspired dresses » he designed...Like Stephanie Seymour’s wedding dress.


I love Tom, you know I do but while I like the idea of Tom Ford for Alaia (wasn’t Spring 2001 and Fall 2003, some kinda of ode to Alaia?), this is science-fiction at this point. And tbh, I think he should fix his own line first.
That being said, I think it’s time for him to tap into something else than Halston and his own 1995/1996 collections. As iconic as they were, it wasn’t at all the years of his creative peak!

Talking about Science-fiction, there are 2 designers that would have done a wonderful job at Alaia: McQueen and Lang! Lee proved us in his SS2006 that he knew the repertoire without blinking... And Lang’s SS2001, on top of reintroducing Alaia, was a beautiful and modern interpretation of his work!

Vauthier would be good! Alaia was the most serious/fashion forward part of the 80’s. That would force him to forget about the kitsch of YSL and Ungaro.
 
I love Alaia so I don’t mind if they want to inject new blood to the brand. I also like versatile and gifted designers who are able to challenge themselves creatively and not limited to their own aesthetics. Since the archives of Maestro Alaia are marvelous, I am really looking forward to seeing how Phoebe would interpret Alaia’s house code. I think Nicolas’ tenure at Balenciaga really bring out the best of King Cristobal’s legacy to us(both are pioneers in their own leagues), so I hope Phoebe could continue Maestro Alaia’s legacy and not turn the brand into Celine 2.0.
 
perhydrol said:
I'd love to see Clare Waight Keller working for Alaia but she would have to develop a strong POV for the brand, just like she did with Chloé at one point. She would be a better choice than Phoebe Philo tbh. Btw wasn't Phoebe supposed to set up her own thing under Richemont?
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I heard a rumour she was going there also. Is this what we need though? Her work seems to have a total lack of confidence about it. Though her not being lumbered with menswear should help her focus again.
 
Joseph

Out: Susana Clayton
In: Anna Lundback Dyhr and Frederik Dyhr
 
I’m actually surprised...
I think he is skilled enough for the job. He knows about sexiness, prints and leather. For some weird reason, I own two pieces from him despite the fact that his aesthetic is not really «me ».

His Ungaro was a bit of a mess but somehow, he managed to showcase his range there. I didn’t even know he was still around.

He better have Cortina by his side and deliver glamour. The 00’s are on trend and Cavalli is the epitome of the 00’s. There’s a potential but he needs to have a strong team! Like strong strong!
 
Marc10 said:
This could've been an interesting choice.... if we were in 2014. Seriously didn't even know this guy was still in business.
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He's totally stuck, I think, in his early '90's Versace Fantasia, from which he never really produced something new and particularly relevant, albeit always visually lush. And I guess his (forgettable) stint for a (forgettable) house like Ungaro did not contribute at all to put him in a different light.
My guess is that this is his last chance to prove he can leave a stamp as a designer, outside of his comfort zone of gladiator dresses and baroque prints.
 
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