Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Steddycam91]

With Vuitton now firmly in his past, I think Marc is totally committed to his brand and his brand only. I believe it was Alex Fury who said in a SHOWstudio panel, "Why should he go to Chanel? He's making his own Chanel." Why travel off to another (albeit hugely iconic) brand when you can strive to make your own brand hugely iconic?

The idea of the different-designer-for-each-season at Chanel is kind of brilliant, IMO. Karl is such a legend and an institution, so once he departs the house they'll need to do something properly brilliant and creative and wonderful.

 

[kasper!]

Rossella Jardini

In: Rossella Jardini.

Yes she lauched her own brand. Plseae stop jump from here to there...guys please launch your own brand! Even it's a tiny collection with more or less 20 pieces...it is still fine!

 

[perhydrol]

^Her first collection was for the s/s 16 season

 

[Gaultier_Bandit]

Galliano at Westwood is just too perfect. She is amazing at what she does. Too bad if she ever retires, Andreas is probably going to take over.

 

[eugenius]

Why everyone throws Simone Rocha's name?

Oh, who knows? Maybe because she's a talented designer with a potemntially bright future ahead of her?

I noticed nobody in that post mentioned anything re: Olivier Theyskenns. Have they totally forgot about him.

 

[Pricciao]

I noticed nobody in that post mentioned anything re: Olivier Theyskenns. Have they totally forgot about him.

Rumors have left him out for some time now. Sad

 

[dodencebt]

IN at Lanvin: Bouchra Jarrar

 

[readings]

^ Haider Ackermann would have been so perfect at Lanvin...

 

[StoneSkipper]

Costume National

Out: Ennio Cappasa

Ennio and Carlo Capasa, who founded the Italian fashion house Costume National in 1986, today announced that they are stepping down from their respective roles as creative director and chief executive of the label.

In an emailed statement, Ennio said, “I was hoping this would not happen. I fought with passion . . . From the beginning I only had one idea: to create a style, to continue to evolve it, and to not follow the trend of the moment. I gave all my energy, supported by a wonderful team of collaborators.”

The brand is currently owned by the Japanese company Sequedge, whom the Capasas first partnered with in 2009. Sequedge will take over immediately, and their agreement leaves the Capasa brothers free to pursue new businesses.

Speaking via phone this morning, Ennio added, “Costume National is my vision, it’s me.” From its very earliest days on the Paris catwalk, he pointed out, the designer put men and women on one runway, showing exact or very similar looks on both genders. The label became synonymous with the minimalist, cool look of the 1990s. Think lots of leather and everything black. The brand had real cachet among New York downtown types in that period.

Those ’90s glory days were long behind Costume National—the trouble with disavowing trend is that fashion tends to ignore you when your style is out of favor. But Ennio went out on a high note with a well-received Fall women’s collection that showcased his talents as a tailor and his eye for a strong accessory.

On the phone, Ennio said he hoped for Costume National’s continued success, pointing out that there’s a 50,000-piece archive encompassing three decades’ worth of work. As for Ennio’s own agenda, he will take a few months to formulate a plan. “Despite the challenges of launching a new maison in this moment of acceleration, I look forward to new projects.”

vogue.com

 

[Nymphaea]

Tod's

Out: Alessandra Facchinetti

Alessandra Facchinetti, Creative Director of Tod’s, Steps Down

Alessandra Facchinetti stepped down from her role as creative director of Tod’s today, joining a growing list of designers who have left their posts since the Fall 2016 shows.

Facchinetti took up the reins at Valentino after the house founder’s departure in 2007 and subsequently designed a short-lived (and, it seems now, ahead-of-its-time) see-now-buy-now line called Uniqueness. Her CV also includes a stint at Gucci.

She arrived at Tod’s in early 2013, and had an impressive debut with her Spring ’14 collection for the Diego Della Valle–led label, making the most of the house specialty leather, but also exhibiting a soft, feminine touch with her tailoring and shirtdresses. Her subsequent collections were rarely short on color or whimsical prints. Accessories were naturally a focus at the label; Tod’s is famous for its pebble-soled Gommino driving shoe. In contrast to the molto sexy sensibilities of many Italian brands, Facchinetti put the emphasis on elegant practicality: You never saw a stiletto at her shows. In recent seasons, Facchinetti’s work with the stylist Caroline Issa has increased the visibility of Tod’s ready-to-wear on social media and street style blogs.

Unfortunately, despite the quotidian, woman-friendly appeal of Facchinetti’s clothes for Tod’s, it could be difficult to find them in stores, one of the inevitable problems when an accessory brand expands into ready-to-wear.

The brand has not announced a successor.

vogue

 

[Koibito]

May 5 Italian luxury good group Tod's said on Thursday that its Creative Director Alessandra Facchinetti would leave the company after three years in her position.

Facchinetti said in a company statement she would "focus on other projects ... put aside in order to be able to achieve Tod's strategies."

Facchinetti's move is the latest in a long string of departures of creative directors in luxury good companies, including Anthony Vaccarello at Versace at the beginning of April.

reuters

What a waste of talent. To me she created the independent successful Tod's woman that could compare to Hermes. I was really sad when she left Valentino and now this brand. While most of fashion brands out there, even Louis Vuitton or Gucci repeat themselves every season, i found her collections at Tod's very interesting.

I'm tired of this horrible fashion's musical chairs, totally.

 

[perhydrol]

I hope she'll go to Salvatore Ferragamo, that would be really good and more visible than Tod's. And at least her clothes would be available to buy there.

 

[Lola701]

One of the most talented and experienced designer around. I hope that she will go to Hermes. I'm not convinced by the "THE ROW" woman...

 

[Koibito]

^Agreed!

 

[mistress_f]

Diane Von Furstenberg
IN: Jonathan Saunders

JONATHAN SAUNDERS NAMED CHIEF CREATIVE OF DVF

"I could not have found a cooler, more intelligent designer," says Diane von Furstenberg in the wake of today's appointment.

http://garagemag.com/jonathan-saunders-named-chief-creative-dvf/

 

[StoneSkipper]

Edun

Out: Danielle Sherman

Today’s announcement that Danielle Sherman has parted ways with Edun is the latest in a string of designers bowing out of high-profile fashion posts this year.

Sherman, 33, joined as Edun’s creative director after Sharon Wauchob in 2013, and came with an impressive résumé: Before a five-year-long run as design director of T by Alexander Wang, she helped Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen launch The Row. The California-born designer managed to edge the LVMH-backed brand into the high-fashion spotlight where others had failed, tethering the socially conscious values set forth by founders Ali Hewson and Bono, who launched Edun in 2005, to a refined and distinctly modern aesthetic. Her clothes were characterized by an unfussy, quiet sense of luxury; references to the label’s made-in-Africa agenda were always woven into the look and feel of the line in subtle ways, and great lengths were taken to elevate the artisanal traditions of the continent without a whiff of cultural cliché. Starting in Kenya, then moving beyond sub-Saharan Africa to Madagascar and South Africa, Sherman kept pace with the brand’s production goals, too: 95 percent of the line across ready-to-wear and accessories is now created on African soil. Sherman’s tenure was underscored by several triumphs on the runway, and the cool streetwise energy of her stellar debut was followed up with equally impressive offerings on numerous occasions, including the graphic ’30s-leaning collection she showed for Spring 2016. “I’d like to thank Ali, Bono, LVMH, and the entire Edun team for all of their passion and dedication, and for making the last three years an incredible journey,” said Sherman. “Having found a way to combine doing something good with creating beautiful clothing has inspired me to take this approach moving forward. I’m really excited about my next chapter.”

voguerunway

 

[Creative]

Álvaro Castejón and Arnaud Maillard out of Azzaro.

 

[Lola701]

Álvaro Castejón and Arnaud Maillard out of Azzaro.

What they did was so tacky and cheap that it was hard to believe that Maillard worked with Karl.
They should have maintain the aesthetic of Vanessa Seward. That sexy bourgeoise-yet-prim look is very on trend today.

Azzaro is like Vionnet and Schiaparelli. They should close the RTW business or hire a real genius.

 

[Creative]

Álvaro worked for Karl too... And I agree, what they did is trash. I don't think they have any kind of talent.

Azzaro is one of those brands that I adore... like Guy Laroche. They have lots of potential. But what they represent isn't in tune with our times... Too bad. And yeah, they should close they down à la Ferré. It's absurd they are still trying to make it happen. In 10 years they didn't succeed... It's not going to happen.

 

[Lola701]

^^
At least, Laroche has some kind of financial relevance thanks to their faithful and wealthy international clientèle.

I think that what those executives sometimes forget is how the "social status" is important when you hire a designer to relaunch a brand.

Azzaro by Seward wasn't groundbreaking but it was chic, timeless and just enough + she was known and supported by the right people in the parisian scene and was a part of that "cool" crowd. She worked at Chanel and at YSL under TF..It added a mystique to her work.

I don't know why S.Kokosaliky is not at Vionnet or Azzaro. They are just perfect for her...