Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[krncandi]

In:

Lee Wood ---> Dirk Bikkembergs

Mario Dice ---> Capucci

 

[Pricciao]

Iceberg

Out: Arthur Arbesser

Succeeding Arthur Arbesser, the Gilmar Group has just announced that James Long will take over as the creative director of Iceberg. Already in charge of the menswear collections for the Italian label, the designer won’t present his first collection for the house until fashion week Fall/Winter 2017-2018. To be continued.

vogue paris

 

[Benn98]

It's officially a crisis at this stage, no????

Carven Parts Ways With Designer Duo
The Paris brand plans to name a new artistic director to succeed Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud.

By Miles Socha on October 24, 2016

PARIS – Fashion’s revolving door continues to spin furiously, with Carven’s duo the latest to depart after a short tenure.

Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud, named artistic directors for Carven’s women’s collections in March 2015, are departing “by mutual agreement,” the house confirmed in a brief statement.

It noted a new artistic director would be appointed at a later date.

Martial and Caillaudaud’s last collection was for spring-summer 2017, presented in Paris last Sept. 29 at Paris Fashion Week.

It delved into the heritage of the house and its late founder, Marie-Louise Carven. The duo zeroed in on four house codes: the Carven crest, the green and white stripes from the Ma Griffe perfume packaging, scarves and Carven’s obsession with flowers. All of that yielded a “collection with great breadth and capturing the sense of play that’s central to a fashion-loving girl’s approach to getting dressed,” according to WWD.

The pair, who met at the Atelier Chardon Savard fashion school in Paris and both went on to work at Givenchy, had succeeded Guillaume Henry, who exited to join Nina Ricci.

Martial began his career at Givenchy in 2007, working as a knitwear designer on the ready-to-wear and couture lines.

After getting his start designing shoes at Marc Jacobs, Caillaudaud joined Givenchy in 2009 and was responsible for the design of accessories, including jewelry, leather goods, men’s and women’s shoes. More recently, he has consulted for Tod’s and Jil Sander.

In 2015 tapped Barnabé Hardy as designer for men’s collections, signaling a change in strategy as it split design duties for women and men following Henry’s departure.

Hardy worked alongside Nicolas Ghesquière for eight years at Italian brand Callaghan and at Balenciaga, where he helped to launch the label’s men’s wear.

The brand is among the handful in Paris to stage runway shows while competing in the contemporary designer bracket.

Fashion is enduring a period of many designer exits, with Marni founder Consuelo Castiglioni bidding farewell and Roberto Cavalli parting ways with designer Peter Dundas.

Source: http://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/designer-duo-exit-carven-martial-caillaudaud-10689398/

 

[donyan]

this is getting ridiculous. They probably did not sell, Why else would they let them go if it had been a financial success? I'm asking myeslf if there is anything that still sells, apart from the 'fast' fashion?

 

[Benn98]

this is getting ridiculous. They probably did not sell, Why else would they let them go if it had been a financial success? I'm asking myeslf if there is anything that still sells, apart from the 'fast' fashion?

Possibly. Which begs the question, are fashion perhaps too in favour of mass appeal (or commercialism?) than creativity right now? There's no way that all these designers are 'no longer a fit' for these brands. And getting rid of them left, right, and centre just isn't the solution. Carven was one of those brands who seemingly went about their business in a quiet way. Seemingly this is no longer enough. Maybe they want more hit bags, and to be hyped like Gucci. I just hope they won't go into rebranding!

 

[donyan]

Possibly. Which begs the question, are fashion perhaps too in favour of mass appeal (or commercialism?) than creativity right now? There's no way that all these designers are 'no longer a fit' for these brands. And getting rid of them left, right, and centre just isn't the solution. Carven was one of those brands who seemingly went about their business in a quiet way. Seemingly this is no longer enough. Maybe they want more hit bags, and to be hyped like Gucci. I just hope they won't go into rebranding!

To rebrand, you need to trust your designer 120%, and put your money where your mouth is. Gucci has worked because they took a risk and let somebody do exactly what he thought was right.
Time and time again history repeats itself, but still brands make the same mistakes.

 

[perhydrol]

So they made Carven fresh, modern yet accesible and wanted and now they're out, cool. I feel so sad because their shows were always one of the best of Paris Fashion Week and you can't say they're not talented.

I can't believe they didn't sell because it's more like a problem within the brand- why did they get rid of Barnabe few months ago and close the menswear line? I just don't get it at this point and it's gonna be a mess.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

At some point, i think it will only have anonymous creative and design team and no longer creative directors. Brands treat them like garbage when they don't succeed to make the brand the most desirable in one show. Those past years, it is not a good choice to be a designer/creative directors but rather a famous instagrammer/influencer or a stylist.

Really sad for this duo as i like them for being the mini Nicolas Ghesquière.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

A bit behind the times but gutted about Facchinetti being out at Tod's, I hope she finds another [and hopefully bigger] appointment soon, her designs cannot be overlooked.

 

[Lola701]

The Carven thing is a disaster!
It's so sad considering that it's a brand i have bought religiously since their rebranding with Henry. Those guys did wonderful dresses and sexy pants!

While the success seems a little bit quit here, i had the feeling it was kinda successful in Asia.
It's one thing to lose a creative force in luxury brands but when you have some brands like Carven who are focused on clothes that people can buy and where, it's even more sad.

I don't think their perfume are successful anymore so maybe they are going to close the whole affair or hire big names. Not doing menswear anymore was such a mistake in the first place...

I'm so sad for these guys, they slightly reminds me of the guys from Courreges.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Not entirely surprised but this Carven move, I have been watching them since they discontinued menswear and laid off the menswear designer Barnaby Hardy in July. Business was not great and they wanted to focus solely on womenswear and I wondered if that would mean a restructuring and I guess I got my answer.

I was heartbroken to read about the elimination of men's as I shopped the brand whenever I could, and I enjoyed what they showed for womenswear, but I never imagined the brand was widely popular.

Strange times we are living in.

 

[vetements]

Possibly. Which begs the question, are fashion perhaps too in favour of mass appeal (or commercialism?) than creativity right now? There's no way that all these designers are 'no longer a fit' for these brands. And getting rid of them left, right, and centre just isn't the solution. Carven was one of those brands who seemingly went about their business in a quiet way. Seemingly this is no longer enough. Maybe they want more hit bags, and to be hyped like Gucci. I just hope they won't go into rebranding!

just a wild thought, but will there come a day where HM and Zara etc has no one else they can copy from since all these fresh and new ideas from the fashion houses are all staid with all these merry go rounds...

shudder to even think about it

 

[dior_couture1245]

Possibly. Which begs the question, are fashion perhaps too in favour of mass appeal (or commercialism?) than creativity right now? There's no way that all these designers are 'no longer a fit' for these brands. And getting rid of them left, right, and centre just isn't the solution. Carven was one of those brands who seemingly went about their business in a quiet way. Seemingly this is no longer enough. Maybe they want more hit bags, and to be hyped like Gucci. I just hope they won't go into rebranding!

Fashion is absolutely too in favor of mass appeal right now, and it's to its total detriment - as we are currently witnessing with designers leaving, quitting, getting fired and brands shutting down or restructuring left and right.

I feel as though we're in the midst of an intense slash and burn period in the industry. It's alarming in the thick of it, but I can't help but think it will ultimately be for the best.

The truth is the luxury market is inherently only so big....it's the simple reality of there being a smaller percentage of people worldwide that have the kind of disposable income to be buying designer fashion and accessories with any kind of regularity.

So - with that reality in mind - it's been a bit bizarre, in my opinion, to watch the entire industry work so hard to democratize itself. There's inherently nothing democratic about designer/luxury fashion. The price tag alone is as exclusive as it gets! The entire industry has been so desperately appealing to the lowest common denominator - what with the ridiculous focus on social media, big puffed up events, and worst of all inoffensive, lukewarm, commercial designs - but what is so foolish about that is that the lowest common denominator does not have the money to spend on designer goods, anyway! The masses shop at Zara and H&M for a reason - the price point! Plus - all the gimmicky, Instagram-ready fashion is the antithesis of what people who have the money to spend actually want to spend their money on - intelligent, interesting, high quality, timeless fashion.

We're currently watching lots of fashion brands spontaneously combust and I think it's ok. These brands - and fashion at large - needs to go through this serious, existential identity crisis. Who are they designing for? And, more importantly, why? Fashion needs to refocus itself, admit to itself that fashion is not a democracy and appealing to the masses is the most dangerous and futile pursuit, as we are so clearly seeing the reprocussions now.

Fashion has simply gotten too big for the reality of the market.

 

[donyan]

Fashion is absolutely too in favor of mass appeal right now, and it's to its total detriment - as we are currently witnessing with designers leaving, quitting, getting fired and brands shutting down or restructuring left and right.

I feel as though we're in the midst of an intense slash and burn period in the industry. It's alarming in the thick of it, but I can't help but think it will ultimately be for the best.

The truth is the luxury market is inherently only so big....it's the simple reality of there being a smaller percentage of people worldwide that have the kind of disposable income to be buying designer fashion and accessories with any kind of regularity.

So - with that reality in mind - it's been a bit bizarre, in my opinion, to watch the entire industry work so hard to democratize itself. There's inherently nothing democratic about designer/luxury fashion. The price tag alone is as exclusive as it gets! The entire industry has been so desperately appealing to the lowest common denominator - what with the ridiculous focus on social media, big puffed up events, and worst of all inoffensive, lukewarm, commercial designs - but what is so foolish about that is that the lowest common denominator does not have the money to spend on designer goods, anyway! The masses shop at Zara and H&M for a reason - the price point! Plus - all the gimmicky, Instagram-ready fashion is the antithesis of what people who have the money to spend actually want to spend their money on - intelligent, interesting, high quality, timeless fashion.

We're currently watching lots of fashion brands spontaneously combust and I think it's ok. These brands - and fashion at large - needs to go through this serious, existential identity crisis. Who are they designing for? And, more importantly, why? Fashion needs to refocus itself, admit to itself that fashion is not a democracy and appealing to the masses is the most dangerous and futile pursuit, as we are so clearly seeing the reprocussions now.

Fashion has simply gotten too big for the reality of the market.

very good point! I agree with everything you say. It seems that High-end/Designer Fashion wants to compete with the numbers of Fast Fashion when those things are completely different kettles of Fish. I was just thinking he other day that here in London there are ads of High end Brands in the street as if these were for everybody, when ,in fact , they are for the very few. It cheapens the Brands and just makes people go into Zara or whatever to buy the knock-off.
Fashion seems to have willfully destroyed itself in the name of margins and commercial aims. It seems to have lost all value, and I honestly have no idea how it could regain any credibility. In fact, the new luxury is to shop a brand like BLess, something that is is special and rare, but not necessarily luxury.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

This is getting so out of hand.

I loved the duo at Carven, I hope they find a company that values them a little more...

 

[VogueDisciple93]

I am in no way trying to start rumors or claiming any inside information

Given the trend of designers being booted after slumping sales, I'd say we keep and eye on Bottega Veneta; Kering's reports are out and the brand is down double digits, they are also in the middle of restructuring. Also Jason Wu's time at Hugo Boss might be coming to an end as the brand's new CEO wants to pull out of the luxury market and focus on menswear.

Again not trying to start rumors, just watching

 

[Benn98]

Now there's a rumour about Jil Sander also seeking someone new, nothing set in stone as yet. They've apparently got Simon Porte Jacquemus and Lucie Meier in mind, the duo who weathered Dior's transition period between Raf and Chiuri.

 

[dodencebt]

^ Do you mean Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier? Because Jacquemus was never at Dior. Or did I get you wrong?

 

[Benn98]

^ Do you mean Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier? Because Jacquemus was never at Dior. Or did I get you wrong?

No no, sorry! From the Dior duo they only want Lucie, not both of them. So effectively she'll be paired with Simon.....if it's all confirmed, of course.

 

[Pricciao]

I'll be so pissed to see Jacquemus sh*t getting promoted.