Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[fashionista-ta]

Time changes. I think why Jil was successful, it's because there was a long going trend about dressing neat up till Celine hype went calm. There indeed are people relate Jil to some version of Saville Row. But more I feel it's the Balenciaga/Calvin Klein/Jil Sander bunch that really made it great. Their business went down after it faded.
Margiela is able to pull that string, that's great for them. Jil is a different case. I'm not suggesting they should go with everyone else. But their aesthetic is their weakness at the current state of fashion.

It doesn't have to be a weakness. There are a number of dedicated minimalists who will never wear Alessandro's Gucci. Just think of the success of the SL tailored pieces that have zip to do with the runway or the advertising. There's no reason Jil Sander couldn't have a piece of that business. Look at Armani. There's no reason Jil Sander couldn't play in the same space. What they need is excellence, tailoring, and design--not hype. Hype may be working for some, but real women need real clothes, and those who live and die by hype are mostly not addressing that need in the least.

 

[Pricciao]

But I remember being told the sales weren't doing particularly good when Jil went back and later on. Just kind of, meh.
+J on the other hand, had a tremendous success, I'm not really sure how to depict it right.
But I think the company always would like a Raf peak to happen again. For that to happen, it definitely requires the environment to work with at first. Not just be the authentic you, and then the firework willingly set itself up.

By the way, Showstudio did an Armani discussion at the end of their Milan round up this season. I'll be brutally honest, it's the boring wealth motif for people who are not really interested in fashion week, like, hey I live in the big mansion driving Maserati. Go away Britney. I mean, good to see you, bye.

Back to the point, Jil, to the majority, doesn't sound as powerful as Armani, ie. aunties "passing the good name" to their nieces; or Margiela, a cult of living style, with almost actual preachers "passing the good name" to their friends. Jil has a steady business, indeed. I'm just not sure if they can earn as much, after being not on topic for ever longer 4, or 5 years time.

 

[Thefrenchy]

And Waight Keller would go to Céline, but it turned out that that's not true. Same with Clare at Burberry.

I work in the industry and no one ever mentioned CWK at Celine or Burberry...

Jacquemus going to Jil...

 

[Pricciao]

(Blacklist Jil Sander immediately)

 

[Nymphaea]

^^Jacquemus really?! No please. Sad times.

 

[Lola701]

Jacquemus? Why not! He has that innocence that could look fresh for Jil. It's so weird that it could work.
Jil needs a new energy and a new twist. He can give it to them...

Plus, his last few collections has proved that he is much more than a gimmick.

 

[Pricciao]

I can't do with that much of infancy exploration. Plus his cut makes everyone looking slimy, basically a line of walking butter dough.

 

[Nomar]

I can definitely see Jacquemus at Jil Sander and I think it's definitely more fitting than Claire at Givenchy. I hope this is true because it's such a fantastic opportunity that would provide invaluable knowledge, especially since he's still a young designer.

He has the potential to do well and I'm personally very interested to see his menswear.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Where is the source confirming Jacquemus? I've searched and haven't found anything about it.

 

[krncandi]

huh?? Didn't Jil Sander confirm Luke and Lucie Meier? I swear I read that a week ago

 

[madame_georgiana]

Maxime Simoens is going to Azzarro. https://www.businessoffashion.com/a...riedCards&trk_page=HomePage&trk_source=Recent

 

[Creative]

Maxime is still a thing? They should just close Azzaro.

 

[madame_georgiana]

Maxime is still a thing? They should just close Azzaro.

Yeah I really loved his first collection and thought the short Leonard stint was weird. Hasn't lived up to my expectations .
I thought Azzarro was wonderful when Vanessa Seward was there a decade ago.

 

[Lola701]

He is still a one hit wonder to me... I don't even know if he had a hit. Yes, Beyonce wore his clothes for her album cover... Yes Mlle Agnes discovered him but that's it.
From the start, he did the wrong choices...
Maybe it will work but Azzaro is also a lost cause to me.


We have too many "irrelevant" names in fashion today. It's all because of those executives egos.
Azzaro like many many many others names should close it fashion department. Or at least only release vintage items and not doing anything "new" because it only damage the brand. It's terrible.

 

[Norden]

Maxime is a textbook case of Being overrated and not living up to the 'hype'. His collections range from
Project runway to French student collection. Lola is totally right there is an oversaturation of irrelevant names. Who will buy into this brand/ designer?

 

[Pricciao]

So what exactly was going on with HBA? Was the whole fw17 wardrobe lost?

Also Thomas Tait, what's he up to?

 

[reese06]

So what exactly was going on with HBA? Was the whole fw17 wardrobe lost?

Also Thomas Tait, what's he up to?

Where did you hear this about Hood by Air? I can't find anything online about this.

 

[Pricciao]

If I knew a thing or two about it, I probably won't post it here haha

Just a couple of friends were joking if it's Hakaan2.0
But it's completely odd. Changed the show date and city. And then cancelled it.

 

[mathiaskatz]

Massimo Giorgetti is leaving Pucci after 2 years.


"Today MSGM needs all of my attention and all of my energy.
The experience with Emilio Pucci was a beautiful adventure which added much to my personal growth.
I would like to thank Laudomia Pucci, the LVMH group, Mauro Grimaldi, my creative team and the whole company for supporting me throughout this inspiring journey.
Thank you all. I'll miss you. ❤️"

 

[perhydrol]

Massimo Giorgetti has left his role as creative director of Emilio Pucci.

The designer says he is leaving the LVMH-owned fashion house to focus on the growth of his own contemporary label, MSGM.

Giorgetti, hailed as one of the most promising young designers to come out of Milan, was appointed creative director of Emilio Pucci in March 2015, succeeding Peter Dundas.

"This experience with Emilio Pucci, one of the most representative and historic brands in fashion was an inspiring journey, which has also contributed to my professional growth. Today my brand needs more and more of my attention and all my energy. I would like to thank Laudomia Pucci, the LVMH group, Mauro Grimaldi and all of the Emilio Pucci team, for supporting me in the beautiful adventure," says Giorgetti.

"We have decided in total agreement to end the partnership. I would like to thank, personally and on behalf of the company, Massimo Giorgetti for the great professionalism shown during these two years of collaboration," adds Mauro Grimaldi, Emilio Pucci's chief executive officer. — Christopher Morency

from businessoffashion.com

I just hope they won't try to Gucci-fy Pucci again. This just didn't work at all, especially after Dundas's tenure at the house.