Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[fashionista-ta]

^ As far as I'm concerned, there's very little magic now ... more of a formula. I'll admit, though, that as fashion descends into a pit of mediocrity, Karl only looks better, because he doesn't change.

How much of that workload is actually on Karl, I wonder? I would imagine that the next designer will be able to choose how much to take on, because so much is already being handled by staff.

 

[Lola701]

^^
Karl only design/direct/draw what is shown on the runway. The boutiques or "commercial" collection are all designed by the team with Virginie Viard (The director of the Studio). That's why Fendi only shows 2 times a year.

Chanel has 8 massive collections every year with 6 fashion shows, who can take such pressure and workload? really few. as for Alber, well no offense i think he is great, but he just doesn't get that vibe and power, his work at Lanvin already kind of boring for me, Chanel may wear him out.

worst case, Chanel may "die" with Karl, the way Dior does, the brand may never get back that kind magic until many years after.

Karl is an old-school designer in the way he was trained and if Chanel managed to hire someone who has cultivated a cult around him (like Karl with his work for Chloé or other italian brands) and a real knowledge of the techniques, they will survive.

Chanel is a bit like the kiss of death. A new designer cannot just come and erase 30+ years of Karl because what he did for Chanel is much more in our memories than what Coco did.
The vocabulary is easy to understand but the most difficult thing is to be able to speak to a clientele aged between 7 to 77 years old. They needs someone who can understand the world of Chanel.

No matter what we may think of his collections, Karl understand the very rich clientele who buys the RTW. They wants some "fashion" elements but at the end of the day they comes to Chanel for something specific. At his shows, you can see royalty, politics, the parisian hype and at the same time the tacky reality TV stars.

I think the fear with a brand like Chanel is to be inconsistent in terms of designers. They had Karl for 30+ years and it's hard to imagine someone there only for 5 or 6 years.

Alber like Haider can do it but i feel like their vocabulary is limited. The magic of Karl is that he has Fendi that is less accessible in terms of taste and he also has his gimmicks that makes things fun.

The biggest coup for the Weirthemers could be to convince Martin Margiela to comeback to fashion. That could be the biggest coup in fashion EVER!
We need someone who may be unexpected...
I don't have that much faith in this new generation of designers.

 

[fashionista-ta]

To say in the same breath that Chanel needs continuity and then suggest Margiela for Chanel ...

I can't imagine he would do it, number one. But the design philosophy is 180 degrees different, no? If he didn't want the job at the house he created, it's hard to imagine he'd want this one. I don't own any Chanel because of the in-your-face branding, as well as the (IMO) stiff and perfectionistic vibe. Chanel seems perfect for the brittle women I see wearing it. If Margiela ever were the designer, I would expect him to immediately destroy (or at least make available items without) all I find most annoying about Chanel.

I think there's a difference between limited vocabulary and appropriate consistency.

 

[dodencebt]

Roberto Cavalli Appoints Creative Director

ROBERTO CAVALLI has appointed Paul Surridge as its creative director, following Peter Dundas's departure from the role last October.

British designer Surridge studied at Central Saint Martins, before moving on to work at Calvin Klein in the Nineties, Burberry (under Christopher Bailey) and Jil Sander (under Raf Simons) in the Noughties, and most recently Z Zegna, where he was creative director and Acne Studios, where he acted as a creative consultant. His new role will see him take responsibility for "all of the group’s brands and for all creative functions", a statement confirmed this morning, with his first outing for the brand slated to take place during the spring/summer 2018 showcase at Milan Fashion Week this September.

“I am honoured and proud to carry forward the legacy of this extraordinary Italian house," said Surridge today. "This is a unique opportunity to contribute a new chapter to the Roberto Cavalli universe, which positively celebrates the beauty, sensuality and power of women. It is my intention to show the passion I share for the codes and vision on which Roberto Cavalli built his brand while celebrating the excellence of Italian craftsmanship."

There has been plenty of upheaval at the Italian fashion house over the last year. Following his appointment as creative director in March 2015, Peter Dundas departed after 19 months in the role, shortly after CEO Gian Giacomo Ferraris joined from Versace. The brand released a statement shortly after, announcing that it would be undergoing a significant restructure - including redundancies - news of which was met with upset and the threat of action from employees. The company reached an agreement with its employees last December.

“I have worked with Paul, and I had the opportunity to appreciate his creative talent as well as his managerial abilities," said Ferraris today. "Paul has a 360-degree vision on brands and branding. He is passionate, mature and an amazing team player. We all believe that he is the ideal candidate to complete our management team and contribute to implementing the ambitious development plans for Roberto Cavalli, which we have agreed with our stakeholders."

vogue.co.uk

 

[dodencebt]

This Paul-Cavalli pairing is so weird to me. His portfolio includes Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, Z Zegna and Acne Studios and now he moves to the home of excessive boho tackiness? How does this work?

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Perhaps some of the excess and tackiness is about to be eliminated ... we can hope. Cavalli has had its moments in the past ...

 

[Marc10]

This Paul-Cavalli pairing is so weird to me. His portfolio includes Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, Z Zegna and Acne Studios and now he moves to the home of excessive boho tackiness? How does this work?

I think that's the point tho. That tacky boho/sexy bling-bling look from Cavalli's glory days are over, nobody wants to wear that. That's why Dundas' tenure bombed. This hiring speaks loud and clear that they want some design and substance into the brand, give it a revamp. It worked well gor other brands recently so we'llsee how it goes, but I think it's a great move. If anything they'll finally have a strong menswear.

 

[dodencebt]

^ Sure, it's clear that they're moving on from the excess but it's too big of a style departure for me to process before I see any first results. And I mean there must be a great deal of compromise - you can't just turn Roberto Cavalli into a simplistic brand without keeping any of the DNA. It's not genuine then.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ His statement is a bit unusual in how it pays allegiance to the codes ...

Remember that season way back that was essentially a Poiret tribute? It was very luxe and lush but not OTT. I wouldn't mind seeing something like that again ... but his background doesn't suggest that'll happen.

 

[Lola701]

To say in the same breath that Chanel needs continuity and then suggest Margiela for Chanel ...

I can't imagine he would do it, number one. But the design philosophy is 180 degrees different, no? If he didn't want the job at the house he created, it's hard to imagine he'd want this one. I don't own any Chanel because of the in-your-face branding, as well as the (IMO) stiff and perfectionistic vibe. Chanel seems perfect for the brittle women I see wearing it. If Margiela ever were the designer, I would expect him to immediately destroy (or at least make available items without) all I find most annoying about Chanel.

I think there's a difference between limited vocabulary and appropriate consistency.

The Ultimate dream..Isn't it?
What i meant was continuity in the profile, not necessarly in the approach. Margiela is a classically trained designer. So he can meet the expectations of an Atelier..

The fact that the design philosophy is 180 degrees different is what makes it exciting. Karl himself wasn't the obvious choice to takeover Chanel. Kitty D'Alessio and the Weirthemers chosed him because he never copied Chanel in his work.

I'm sure, he will never do it but i think it could have been great. Karl himself and people in his team were a fan of Margiela and wore it.
And in a way, the main thing about Karl's tenure at Chanel is his irreverence towards Coco's work and i quite like the idea of someone who will be able to be irreverent towards Coco & Karl.



About the Cavalli thing, i'm kinda sad to see this brand today because Roberto and Eva really turned things around for their brand. Even if for some people, Cavalli will always represent the euro-trash style of the early 00's, they have done really amazing things and collections over the past 10 years.
It's a bit frustrating to see Gucci, Saint Laurent or even Balmain succeed with all the "Cavalli codes" and see Cavalli struggle with it.

They needs to have Eva Cavalli as a consultant because i'm not that excited about this.

 

[mathiaskatz]

Costume National -- Koji Udo for menswear and Yasutoshi Ezumi for womenswear


cr: fashionnetwork.com

 

[vetements]

Costume National -- Koji Udo for menswear and Yasutoshi Ezumi for womenswear


cr: fashionnetwork.com

Is Costume National now owned by Japanese corporations like Onward? I am not aware if that is the case..

 

[perhydrol]

Guy Laroche

Out: Adam Andrascik
In: Richard René

 

[Benn98]

Wow, I thought Donatella would just bide her time for Tisci's noncompete to pass, but it seems not. Kim Jones? The last guy I'd have imagined for Versace but considering the brand's current image, I wouldn't say it's unlikely. They're probably thinking he'll make Versace hip again, not that they ever needed it imo.

Report: Versace Could Hire Kim Jones For the Creative Director Role

The men's artistic director of Louis Vuitton may get poached by the Italian fashion house, industry sources say.

Maria Bobila
20 hours ago

It's been a while since we've learned more (or heard any good gossip) about the potential new hire for Versace's top creative director position. To recap, a well-reported rumor was circling upon Riccardo Tisci's departure from Givenchy earlier this year that the designer would take over the major Italian fashion house. But the speculation was put to rest this summer due to Tisci's alleged non-compete with his former label. Then, in August, Virgil Abloh was rumored to be in talks to take over Versace, but both Abloh and the fashion house denied it.

Now a new designer is thrown into the mix, according to a report from WWD on Monday. Sources in Milan say execs at Versace are in discussion to poach Kim Jones, the men's artistic director at Louis Vuitton.

"No contract has been signed and the likelihood of a deal could not immediately be learned," says the trade publication. "It is understood that the biggest barrier is a contractual one: Last year, the Englishman renewed his employment agreement at Vuitton, which he joined in 2011."

Before joining Louis Vuitton, Jones worked at Dunhill, Hugo Boss, Alexander McQueen, Topman and Mulberry, among others. The British designer also collaborated with Nike, and brought on one of the biggest partnerships in luxury-and-streetwear history: LV x Supreme, which has been a highlight for LVMH's rebounding sales. If the higher-ups of Versace are looking for someone to revitalize the brand, Jones might just be the guy.
A spokesperson from Versace has declined to comment on the matter. We also reached out to Louis Vuitton for comment and will update this story as we learn more.

Source: Fashionista.com

 

[Lola701]

^^
I really don't believe this at all. IMO Donatella still has Riccardo in her mind. Apart from him and Christopher Kane (i don't see his own brand exist in 10 years), i don't believe she has her eye on anyone else...

Riccardo is great because he can do mens and womenswear.

 

[Benn98]

^^
I really don't believe this at all. IMO Donatella still has Riccardo in her mind. Apart from him and Christopher Kane (i don't see his own brand exist in 10 years), i don't believe she has her eye on anyone else...

Riccardo is great because he can do mens and womenswear.

Could be, but it sounds to me like Donatella may want Tisci, but the suits want Jones? I'm keen to see how this will pan out.

Just to put it out there, Vaccarello for Versus was an just as odd an appointment.....

 

[Lola701]

^^
Yes, maybe it's a "suits" thing. To be honest, Tisci is just the perfect guy. On top of that, he has a cult following and a lot of celebrities that will wear his clothes from Julianne Moore to Julia Roberts. His collab with Nike proved to us that he can sell just with his name...

I feel like i've always read stories about Donatella leaving. I remember in 2004 when they said that Tom Ford will join Versace.

Donatella is not going to retire anytime soon. She loves her job. I can see her as a chaperon to whoever she choose to work with.

Vaccarello was very odd as you said. It's a pity Kane didn't stayed at Versus because with him, they had the opportunity to turn Versus into a MiuMiu kind of thing. When you look at the state of his work today and also Versus, it's very pitiful.

 

[Pricciao]

Kim Jones is already trashy savvy, meeting another of the same type can be a huge disaster. Please don't do that, Versace people.

 

[krncandi]

Poiret:

In: Yiquing Yin

 

[eugenius]

I'm surprised TFS is getting the news re: Poiret now. NYT reported this mos. ago.