Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[FadeToBlack]

i understand but i was more thinking about if all these creative directors are taking their teams with them to their new spots, since they're all moving within the group i guess it's possible?

but that'd probably mean the berluti team is getting laid off?

I know Kim took his head of studio with him to Dior, he has also taken some other members of his team with him over to his new role.

 

[FadeToBlack]

I hope KvA has the opportunity to reinvent himself as well. Dior Homme was set up by Hedi and he just follow the code and everything. Berluti has a very young fashion presents, this is a great opportunity for him to go big. But given it's LVMH, I expected a watered-down corporate versions.

Berluti has a very storied past and was established way before Dior (mens and women) so he still has to work to a code and DNA of the house that is known for it's Italian craftsmanship.
He makes sense going to Berluti due to it's classic codes and Dior really needs a youthful approach that isn't so strict and defined.

 

[Lola701]

At least, they are hiding their ambition or motivation. They are clearly chasing that millenial customer.
One thing that i don't understand is that Millenials are supposed to be people born between 1980 and 2000.
So, i'm a millenial even if i'm a girl and that i'm not directly impacted by those things.
Their vision of Millenials seems to be more about people born between 1995 and 2000. They are chasing that very young young customer that doesn't necessarly have the money to consume fashion in that frenetic way.

Haider was very aspirational. Except for Slimane, all those designers are not that good with delivering something aspirational. It's very fashion for the moment and about delivering good separates.

With KVA it's clear, they wants that millenial customer (think Alexandre Arnault)to buy into berluti even if it cost loosing their original target. I'm sure their traditional customer will continue to buy shoes there but KVA's aesthetic is the opposite of Berluti....Chunky boots and all.

i wonder what happens with all the design teams in these cases?

Generally designers have their little group that follows them: an assistant, a stylist, the director of the studio..etc. They aren't generally more than 5 people. People that are very instrumental in the aesthetic of the designer most of the time leaves with them if their position is not discussed when negociating the contract.

Even if they are in the same group, it doesn't change that much. The studios are already setup. Designers only comes with their "entourage". For example, Demna worked with both, Marc and Nicolas because he was part of the studio and not necessarly, their own teams.

 

[kasper!]

Berluti acquired Arnys after LVMH decided to make it an all-catagory brand, but now it seems they are developing it into other direction...like lola said, those millenial customers...

I miss those exquisite garments with rive gauche flair, old Arnys R.I.P.

 

[andrew]

Haider flopping at berluti is awful for the artform but bodes well for my ability to get his output at hot hot discounts soon... his outerwear is to die for.

 

[PierreGotha]

Used to be just DSQUARED and i didnt mind it, but it is becoming tiring for me to see "VLTN", "Balenciaga 2017", Hardior", "KERING", "Supreme"," GUCCY" "fendi", in bold prints splashing all over tee shirts, bags, down jackets etc...

These tendencies are probably going to burst soon and die out. Then another reshuffle will spin again. All we need is another disruptor like Demna to invalidate what we're facing now.

 

[vetements]

Haider flopping at berluti is awful for the artform but bodes well for my ability to get his output at hot hot discounts soon... his outerwear is to die for.

That sounds like killing the goose that lays golden eggs, you get it once and not anymore

even without him leaving, they will go on sale as well...

now with KVA on board, chances are you and me wont be getting any thing from berluti in those designs anytime soon.

 

[dodencebt]

Haider flopping at berluti is awful for the artform but bodes well for my ability to get his output at hot hot discounts soon... his outerwear is to die for.

You can't really tell whether he flopped or not because as Lola mentioned previously, his clothes have only been in stores for less than two seasons. I think with the latest developments, LVMH simply realized they have to align all their brands by the streetwear ethos and Haider is not that type of designer.

 

[andrew]

That sounds like killing the goose that lays golden eggs, you get it once and not anymore

even without him leaving, they will go on sale as well...

now with KVA on board, chances are you and me wont be getting any thing from berluti in those designs anytime soon.

Lol I would definitely prefer he stay but I’ll take what I can get from the dearth of design in these last few years... and KVA; I liked some of his early Dior Homme and private label output, but egghhh his recent output is just so corny to me. I don’t see him doing a refined adult luxury (maybe that aesthetic is dead now due to the instagram rush) product... I would like to be wrong.

 

[fashionista-ta]

You can't really tell whether he flopped or not because as Lola mentioned previously, his clothes have only been in stores for less than two seasons. I think with the latest developments, LVMH simply realized they have to align all their brands by the streetwear ethos and Haider is not that type of designer.

What is this 'have to' ...

One could really wish for them to have a bit longer timeframe to their 'vision.' Or for their shortsightedness to bite them back in such a way as to make an impression ...

I wouldn't count on deep discounts. Sometimes when a good designer leaves, demand for their work increases ... I would expect that to be the case with Haider as well as at Celine. When Alber 'left' Lanvin, I snapped up as much as I could. I don't remember any particular bargains, but I did get several things that became favorites. Today I wore one, and dropped another at the cleaners. I hope he comes out of retirement in some meaningful way ...

 

[dodencebt]

What is this 'have to' ...

Well they hired Virgil at Vuitton and moved Kim to Dior, one a stylist who jumped on the streetwear bandwagon quite early, the other a designer who realized that doing streetwear was his ticket to bigger sales. Givenchy has been catering to that market for quite some time, Fendi has started doing so with these Fila collaborations and what not. And we can only expect Hedi's Céline to be youth-obsessed.. So from a business viewpoint, I'd say they absolutely 'had to' align Berluti and get someone with a simpler and more juvenile sensibility there. Don't get me wrong, I don't agree with most of these appointments but I fully understand their strategy to capitalize on what is big right now. It's a shame that they aren't thinking about the long run, though.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

https://www.businessoffashion.com/a...-slimane-wins-11-5-million-from-saint-laurent


Meanwhile....haha

 

[Lola701]

^^
I'm always surprised by the way Kering handle their business. To think that the man that helped the brand into a 1Billion powerhouse was paid less than a million is beyond weird.

All the designers who has left Kering had a messy exit. It's unbelievable.

 

[readings]

And does anyone knows how was KVA"s DH while he was there, i dont really see it selling all that well tbh.

It was selling well these last seasons - thanks to the sneakers and denim etc.

 

[vetements]

It was selling well these last seasons - thanks to the sneakers and denim etc.

Then I guess it’s ‘right’ to put KVA at berluti then

God forbids berluti also coming up with logo denims and animal prints bags lol

We are seeing lesser and lesser originality in fashion these days, the similarity we are seeing now are just too obvious.
The ‘clothes that look alike’ topic should start including not just dresses but also regular day to day clothes and accessories they sell in the shops, there are a lot of them. From what’s being done at Gucci being seen at Saint Laurent to what’s being done at Saint Laurent seen at Balenciaga etc.
I was actually surprised to see a Balenciaga triple s sneakers being done at Gucci for eg, when it wasn’t even Gucci’s style, sign of times I guess, companies will do anything to see the extra pair of shoes or piece of sweater...

 

[kasper!]

Old news but worth a post I suppose


Roger Vivier

In: Gherardo Felloni (former Miu Miu designer)



Vince (menswear)

In: Patrik Ervell (old news but I am sad that his own brand is almost like half close now)

 

[Marc10]

^I'm sad too! Patrik is a great designer and a great guy. And it's funny that he was doing years ago all the menswear hits of the moment. Oh well, all the best for him there.

 

[chanelh]

if karl keeps uttering with his big mouth, he will be very soon retired, not in a pretty way

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ His thinking is about as modern as his 18th century period with the fans and whatnot ...

 

[readings]

if karl keeps uttering with his big mouth, he will be very soon retired, not in a pretty way

Why - what did he say?