wwd.comLacoste Names Louise Trotter As Creative Director
PARIS — Lacoste has named Louise Trotter creative director, marking the first time a woman has filled the position in the history of the house.
The former Joseph designer will present her first collection for the label for the fall 2019 season, Lacoste said. The brand’s spring 2019 collection was designed in-house following the departure of Felipe Oliveira Baptista in May after eight years at the creative helm.
“We are very happy to welcome Louise. Her visionary approach on lines and materials, as well as her expertise in creating highly technical pieces, will be real assets to strengthen the positioning of our collections,” said Lacoste chief excutive officer Thierry Guibert, who wants to refocus the brand on its sports roots.
“I am delighted to join this French brand with such a unique heritage. For 85 years, the modernity of the Lacoste style has resided in this singular fusion of sport and fashion. I am proud to contribute to the writing of a new chapter in its history,” said Trotter.
Trotter joined Joseph in 2009 from the British high street label Jigsaw, where she also held the title of creative director. Before Jigsaw, she served as senior vice president, creative director of H Hilfiger. She was previously vice president of product design and development for women’s merchandise at Gap brand.
During her tenure at Joseph, Trotter put a strong focus on luxe separates, buttery leathers and a mix of tailored and fluid clothing. She was credited with launching men’s wear and accessories for the brand.
Best known for its iconic crocodile logo polo shirt, Lacoste this year is celebrates its 85th anniversary. The brand last September returned to Paris from New York to stage its first ready-to-wear show in the city in 13 years.
For the spring collection, it opted for a presentation. The line, designed by an in-house team, played on a “sportcore” mix of Nineties streetwear references with oversize volumes and the brand’s tennis DNA.
Guibert previously told WWD he found the label unfocused when he took over the helm of the company — owned by Swiss retail group Maus Frères SA — in 2015.
“One of the main tasks when I arrived was to give the brand a clear direction,” he said, noting it had turned too much toward fashion and away from sports. “Sport-inspired and French elegance, these are the two pillars we are leaning on.”
Under his watch, Lacoste has revved up its marketing efforts on sports ambassadors, notably tennis star Novak Djokovic, and sponsoring new tennis tournaments as well as creating capsule collections carrying a Made in France label.
Guibert has also been busy overhauling the distribution network around the world, particularly in the U.S., Lacoste’s largest market, where it generates 15 percent of group sales.
Lacoste, whose link to tennis goes back to its founder René Lacoste, a French tennis legend nicknamed “the crocodile,” is also looking to revive its tennis racket business. The brand, which sponsors tennis tournaments including Roland Garros, the Miami Open and the ATP Finals, last year acquired Tecnifibre, a French company that specializes in tennis and squash equipment.
Under Oliveira Baptista’s tenure, revenues at Lacoste grew from around 1 billion euros in 2009 to more than 2 billion euros in 2016, the most recent figures released by the house. The designer was building on the momentum set by his predecessor Christophe Lemaire, who was credited with reviving the brand, tripling its sales during his decade-long tenure there.
Known for his avant-garde, experimental creations, Oliveira Baptista, who was a self-described niche designer when he arrived at Lacoste in 2010, put his namesake brand on hold in 2014. During his time at Lacoste, he collaborated with designers and houses including Maison Lesage, Jean-Paul Goude, Yazbukey and Supreme.
The brand has also seen a number of changes in its communications department over the past few months.
Pascal Collet, the brand’s longtime international press and public relations director, parted ways with the house in mid February. Mathieu Baboulène joined as international PR manager in May 2017 and left recently to join Coach.
Mathias Monge has just joined the house from Nike in the role of global communications and events director, with the new head of press and public relations yet to be announced.
Among other changes, Lacoste plans to move into new headquarters in Paris’ 16th arrondissement, with details yet to be confirmed.
Serge Ruffieux leaves Carven
The Swiss-born designer is on the move
By Victoria Kingdon
Nov 5, 2018
Serge Ruffieux, the creative director of Carven is to leave the label after just three seasons.
His departure comes following the acquisition of the French fashion house by Chinese clothing company Icicle. In a statement released to WWD a spokesperson for the company said, "We recognize Serge Ruffieux’s great talent but we need time to evaluate the situation and make decisions that are the most appropriate to accompany the relaunching of Carven notably for what concerns creative direction and style."
Swiss-born Ruffieux was appointed creative director of the label in February 2017, overseeing all ready-to-wear and accessories. The designer had previously come from Dior where, along with his partner Lucie Meier, he led the design team under Raf Simons, producing the Autumn 2016, Resort 2017, and Autumn and Spring 2016 Haute Couture collections for the house.
During his three seasons at the helm of Carven, Ruffieux injected a younger, more urban spirit into the heritage brand. The designer's next move is unclear but, well known for his ability to inject a sense of fun and frivolity into a label, he will no doubt be highly in demand.
Poiret is no longer under the creative direction of Yiqing Yin
By Anaïs Lerévérend
11 December 2018
She made a strong impression with her first runway show for the revived Poiret brand in March 2018, but her tenure has been short-lived. French designer Yiqing Yin has stepped down as artistic director of the historic womenswear label, which was founded by Paul Poiret in 1903 and had been somewhat dormant before it was acquired and relaunched by Korean company Shinsegae in 2015.
The Korean luxury distributor confided Yiqing Yin with the task of reviving the fashion house for the Autumn/Winter 2018-19 season. Since then she has headed up two runway shows in Paris, the first of which was commended for having resurrected the label's codes, notably its oriental motifs, with great delicacy.
Poiret has not provided any details concerning the reason for the designer's surprise departure after only two runways, nor is there any news on whether or not the brand will be hosting a runway show next March.
While Yiqing Yin was chosen to define the brand's creative direction at the time of its relaunch, Belgian businesswoman Anne Chapelle took over as CEO, having previously led brands including Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann.
What an odd and pointless idea it was to revive Poiret in the first place...
The same and exact thing is going to happen to Jean Patou by Henry.
Poiret can do perfumes... A niche brand of fragrances or jewelries.
What an odd and pointless idea it was to revive Poiret in the first place...
The same and exact thing is going to happen to Jean Patou by Henry.
Poiret can do perfumes... A niche brand of fragrances or jewelries.
i hope he will!That designer was a weird choice to head Poiret, and the collections were a mess. I think it could be a relevant brand if done right in the right segment. I heard Patrick van Ommeslaeghe worked in her team and I think he should be heading the whole thing. He has a modern Poiret sensibility and he's great at doing dresses.
I just saw there's a profile on Linkedin said that they are the design directors consulting on Lanvin since 2018 Oct. Do we have any news about LANVIN yet ?