Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[LadyJunon]

Given how this discussion is unfolding, I'm curious to know who else was considered for Givenchy after CWK. I did hear that Julien Dossena was also in the running.

Dossena at Givenchy? WE WERE ROBBED!!!

 

[THD96]

Dossena at Givenchy? WE WERE ROBBED!!!

We are not, Julien is doing an amazing job at Paco Rabanne.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

We are not, Julien is doing an amazing job at Paco Rabanne.

Yes, but he would have been so much better Givenchy than Williams.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Lutz Huelle has been invited to design for AZ Factory as their guest designer:

https://www.vogue.com/article/lutz-huelle-is-az-factory-s-newest-amigo

Kind of excited by this, although don't want to set up too high of an expectation. Hopefully it gives him an opportunity to re-explore some of the more dramatic things he sampled at the ill-fated Delpozo stint.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

This

Lutz Huelle has been invited to design for AZ Factory as their guest designer:

https://www.vogue.com/article/lutz-huelle-is-az-factory-s-newest-amigo

Kind of excited by this, although don't want to set up too high of an expectation. Hopefully it gives him an opportunity to re-explore some of the more dramatic things he sampled at the ill-fated Delpozo stint.

This was a very clever decision and I'm glad the team and staff who were hired can keep going.

Lutz can be hit or miss for me. Sometimes I find it to be so incredibly smart and beautiful, other times it can feel a bit dated. Either way, I'm happy for all involved and look forward to seeing what comes from it.

 

[Lola701]

Lutz Huelle has been invited to design for AZ Factory as their guest designer:

https://www.vogue.com/article/lutz-huelle-is-az-factory-s-newest-amigo

Kind of excited by this, although don't want to set up too high of an expectation. Hopefully it gives him an opportunity to re-explore some of the more dramatic things he sampled at the ill-fated Delpozo stint.

I’m so happy for him. I’ll definitely buy something from that. It would be great if he stays more than a season tho.
He is a talent. He just need the platform to really explore it. His own line is good but it’s clear that it’s almost artisanal.

 

[donyan]

He is a talent. He just need the platform to really explore it. His own line is good but it’s clear that it’s almost artisanal.

I'm really happy about this too, and I agree about his own line being almost artisanal, but that is also one of the things that make it unique for me.
I'm surprised they chose someone who's not an up-and-coming designer anymore, it means that everything is possible at AZ Factory, and it makes me root for this brand that I honestly thought would not continue after Alber Elbaz' passing.

 

[Frederic01]

Harris Reed Is Nina Ricci’s New Creative Director

Known for his gender-fluid demi-couture, Reed says he's "excited to challenge the landscape of what femininity means."

SEPTEMBER 20, 2022, 10:00PM

Get ready for “magnified femininity” at Nina Ricci, brought to you by its new creative director Harris Reed. The French fashion house, controlled by Spanish group Puig, has selected the buzzy British American talent to write its next chapter.

WWD

 

[YohjiAddict]

^Are they on some kind of prolonged catholic penance which commands them to keep employing the most awful designers as their creative directors?

The only sin meriting such cruel punishment would be getting rid of Theyskens…

 

[THD96]

I guessed they saw how CDV create momentum at Rochas and now they try to use the same formula. It could work, considering I like Rochas more than his eponymous brand.

NR's fashion department has been falling off the radar for so long now, I'm surprised Puig not close it yet, and focus on the perfume line.

Let's wait and see, it's not like he can do any more damage to this brand.

 

[Koibito]

The Nina Ricci brand itself: Please just kill me already.

 

[Frederic01]

We are now at the stage in our culture when identity and social media presence takes precedence over talent. Getting these top tier positions in the fashion industry means being popular on Instagram, friends with the right kind of celebrities, and having an identity that is au courant.

Designers with actual talent and inspiring creativity are looked over time and time again in place of these people that spend more time on social media than they do on the actual work.

 

[perhydrol]

Actually, this appointment may make some sense, but after the Botter duo it feels like taking unnecessary risks. Let's see, those couture gloves worn by Harris are an indicator that at least they went to the archives once.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Nina Ricci is going to be yet another branch of mediocre campness that is just a disguise for how bad it's really going to be. So it's a no from me, dawg.

However, there is a part of me that hopes this tenure will help them refine their craft and approach with fashion. Everything they have done is so dense, overwrought and cheap that maybe, just maybe, this could offer a moment of refinement in their skills and craft.

 

[Kimihiro]

Just let this brand die. I don’t know where to place it in today’s fashion.

 

[LadyJunon]

^Are they on some kind of prolonged catholic penance which commands them to keep employing the most awful designers as their creative directors?

The only sin meriting such cruel punishment would be getting rid of Theyskens…

I can't help but feel that they (and maybe Rochas too) want to rehire Theyskens, but are able to because of Azzaro. While all three specialise in dramatic demi-couture, Theyskens is the only one with technical abilities to support those sorts of designs. That's why even his simpler collections look magical.

 

[Lola701]

I feel like Harris Reed is their response to Rochas’s de Villemorin.
Peter Copping was the best at Nina Ricci…But the brand whole strategy needs to mimic Patou.
Contemporary RTW is the way to go for those brands…because the constent revamp of the RTW every 2 seasons is ridiculous.

 

[jeanclaude]

One thing is for sure here...Puig is going to spend a lot in buying metres and metres of fabric with this guy!

 

[style_expert]

But the brand whole strategy needs to mimic Patou.
Contemporary RTW is the way to go for those brands…because the constent revamp of the RTW every 2 seasons is ridiculous.

I fully agree!
I feel like the name Nina Ricci is quite known overall and still has a lot of potential
They developed it into a brand with absolutely no client base at all.
I believe even under Theyskens which was the absolute highlight for the brand, the commercial success was not really there for the RTW.

 

[vogue28]

Ludovic de Saint Sernin announced as the new creative director of Ann Demeulemeester: