Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[yslforever]

In the perfect world, Galliano go back to John Galliano with minority stakes from LVMH similar to what Phoebe Philo is doing.
LVMH or even Renzo Rosso can help with the executive team.

John needs to do his own thing, a bit like Herve Léger when he set up his own little house. I don’t think the brand needs huge ambitions. He can launch a fragrance, do his shows, sell clothes in very limited numbers and have his Couture. A bit like Schiaparelli but with the strength of fragrances (If and only if the fragrance is a success).

PPP should go to Fendi. At least, he will do something interesting.

MGC should go to Pucci because I think her aesthetic and commercial approach could really work for the brand, more than what Miceli is doing.

Miceli should go back to jewelry/accessories.

I don’t think you can turn around Ferragamo when the family is blocking any chances to have a cohesive vision there.
He will be too expensive anyway.

There are many options always for a talent like that. It has to fit his desire, aspirations but also his lifestyle.

Fendi was the best option for him as a Roman. Valentino was in Rome.

It’s kind of you to think about recycling.
I’d prefer to let them retire and do whatever else they want. I can picture MGC raising pet goats in a Puglia masseria.
Many people retired and I suspect they are happier now : Dries, Tomas Maier, Helmut, Martin Margiela, Jil, Andover…
Even Virginie might be relieved now.
Many others should retire and develop other interests

 

[Olaffo]

Apparently Jean Paul Gaultier is done with the guest designers and a permanent designer at the house will be announced soon...no word yet on who? Source: Lauren Sherman

This is very interesting, who might be the permanent CD then ? Don’t believe for a second it’s gonna be a big name like PPP, just doesn’t work for company with such living icon still overseeing the place. Some great talent from within the organisation?

 

[carla56]

This is very interesting, who might be the permanent CD then ? Don’t believe for a second it’s gonna be a big name like PPP, just doesn’t work for company with such living icon still overseeing the place. Some great talent from within the organisation?

maybe LDSS is preparing such a beautiful collection that they asked him to stay??

 

[proseccotabis]

Even if I never got « Jil Sander » from them in spirit (an era of Lounge wear really), they didn’t hurt the brand.

I’m still wishing for Daniel Lee to be out of Burberry somehow even though I’m curious to see his latest collection.

he is most likely going to JS.. unless they promote the design director...

 

[proseccotabis]

Going from Valentino to Ferragamo? I mean…It doesn’t look like the idealistic trajectory.

I think Sabato will be out after the end of his contract unless if the results haven’t improved this year. I don’t think he was expensive anyway so KERING wouldn’t care spending the extra money to prematurely end his contract.

1 year of performance is not enough to judge a commercial performance but the fact that there’s no dynamic makes it difficult for Sabato.

Im with you on this one. no way they will make hassle out of already catastrophically difficult 2 or so years with removing the ancora boy. That will cost a LOT financially and in terms of reputation. I would presume kering would not be interested in sending out a signal that they are in trouble and thus booting out their CD after 1,5 or so years. Theyre probable actively monitoring his performance and watching him like hawks but have another person in mind for 2026 already. likely scenario for kering as this is what happened to DL ( the only difference is that his stuff was selling like hot pies)

In the perfect world, Galliano go back to John Galliano with minority stakes from LVMH similar to what Phoebe Philo is doing.
LVMH or even Renzo Rosso can help with the executive team.

John needs to do his own thing, a bit like Herve Léger when he set up his own little house. I don’t think the brand needs huge ambitions. He can launch a fragrance, do his shows, sell clothes in very limited numbers and have his Couture. A bit like Schiaparelli but with the strength of fragrances (If and only if the fragrance is a success).

PPP should go to Fendi. At least, he will do something interesting.

MGC should go to Pucci because I think her aesthetic and commercial approach could really work for the brand, more than what Miceli is doing.

Miceli should go back to jewelry/accessories.

I don’t think you can turn around Ferragamo when the family is blocking any chances to have a cohesive vision there.
He will be too expensive anyway.

There are many options always for a talent like that. It has to fit his desire, aspirations but also his lifestyle.

Fendi was the best option for him as a Roman. Valentino was in Rome.

I have a suspicion RR bought JG. they are best friends joint at the hip and Renzo and OTB would do anything to not let this go, i think.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

... but have another person in mind for 2026 already.

This.
I think Sabato will end peacefully his contract, but they are already thinking about his replacement.

 

[yslforever]

This is very interesting, who might be the permanent CD then ? Don’t believe for a second it’s gonna be a big name like PPP, just doesn’t work for company with such living icon still overseeing the place. Some great talent from within the organisation?

JPG has had some ready-to-wear for a couple of years now - though it is not featured on this forum - and it's half good, half bad, but a very commercial adaptation of the couture.
I wonder who is designing it and if they are involved in couture or not ?

 

[proseccotabis]

This.
I think Sabato will end peacefully his contract, but they are already thinking about his replacement.

firing someone with a permanent 3 year contract in design dept is a hefty, hefty price to pay...
wouldnt be surprised if theyve 95% decided on another person already.

 

[fashionmarketeditor]

Lauren Sherman is only partially correct. JPG already had a full-time creative director, Florence Tétier, who joined in 2020 shortly after Gaultier himself retired. She was responsible for the ready-to-wear, reissues, capsules etc. But she left a few months ago so the new designer will effectively be replacing her. This doesn’t necessarily mean they’ll stop doing the guest designers for couture.

 

[LadyJunon]

Lauren Sherman is only partially correct. JPG already had a full-time creative director, Florence Tétier, who joined in 2020 shortly after Gaultier himself retired. She was responsible for the ready-to-wear, reissues, capsules etc. But she left a few months ago so the new designer will effectively be replacing her. This doesn’t necessarily mean they’ll stop doing the guest designers for couture.

That makes much more sense.

 

[LadyJunon]

A TLDR on the debuts and returns happening this year:
January
Alessandro Michele - Valentino (first Couture show)
Alexandre Vauthier - Alexandre Vauthier
David Koma - Blumarine (runway debut in February)
Julian Klausner - Dries Van Noten (runway debut in March)
Peter Copping - Lanvin
February/March
Frances Howle - Fforme
Haider Ackermann - Tom Ford
Lorenzo Serafini - Alberta Ferretti
Sarah Burton - Givenchy
Silvia Venturini Fendi - Fendi (return)
Veronica Leoni - Calvin Klein
September/October
Louise Trotter - Bottega Veneta
Matthieu Blazy - Chanel
TBD
Michael Rider - Celine

 

[PDFSD]

A TLDR on the debuts and returns happening this year:
January
Alessandro Michele - Valentino (first Couture show)
Alexandre Vauthier - Alexandre Vauthier
David Koma - Blumarine (runway debut in February)
Julian Klausner - Dries Van Noten (runway debut in March)
Peter Copping - Lanvin
February/March
Frances Howle - Fforme
Haider Ackermann - Tom Ford
Lorenzo Serafini - Alberta Ferretti
Sarah Burton - Givenchy
Silvia Venturini Fendi - Fendi (return)
Veronica Leoni - Calvin Klein
September/October
Louise Trotter - Bottega Veneta
Matthieu Blazy - Chanel
TBD
Michael Rider - Celine

non excite me..... to be really honest ....maybe one will surprise :-/

 

[Lola701]

Rider is not showing in March?

 

[LadyJunon]

Rider is not showing in March?

According to WWD, he only arrived at Celine this month and LVMH never specified when he'll present his debut collection. That said, it's known that the studio collections will be studio-led.

Last fall, Polo Ralph Lauren designer Michael Rider was recruited to succeed Hedi Slimane at the creative helm of Celine. But since he is only stepping into the role this month, it is not clear yet when he will present his first collection. (In the interim, studio collections are being prepared.) It marks a return to the French house for Rider, who logged a decade as Celine’s design director of ready-to-wear from 2008 to 2018, working under then-creative director Phoebe Philo. A graduate of Brown University in Rhode Island, Rider also worked as a senior designer at Balenciaga from 2004 to 2008. “Celine is a maison with values very close to my heart and a beautiful heritage to build on,” the designer said.