Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Salvatore]

I am really lost for words with this one. I don't dislike them in general, but it is still a very shocking appointment.

 

[tatouejeremie]

i actually don't really mind their stuff but this decision has me baffled

then where are the meiers going?

 

[Xone]

i actually don't really mind their stuff but this decision has me baffled

then where are the meiers going?

Home, to rest. lol

 

[vetements]

I do buy Loewe consistently every season. I dont necessarily always like what I see on the runway but the stuff in the shops are great, even the collabs are great, the vases are great and the bags are great. I quite like the pseudo-or-not intellectualism around it, funky in a good way and very wearable.

PS going to Loewe? Pretty sure I will stop watching them, it is like Victoria Beckham taking over YSL next kinda awful.

 

[yslforever]

A TLDR on the debuts and returns happening this year:
January
Alessandro Michele - Valentino (first Couture show)
Alexandre Vauthier - Alexandre Vauthier
David Koma - Blumarine (runway debut in February)
Julian Klausner - Dries Van Noten (runway debut in March)
Peter Copping - Lanvin
February/March
Frances Howle - Fforme
Haider Ackermann - Tom Ford
Lorenzo Serafini - Alberta Ferretti
Sarah Burton - Givenchy
Silvia Venturini Fendi - Fendi (return)
Veronica Leoni - Calvin Klein
September/October
Louise Trotter - Bottega Veneta
Matthieu Blazy - Chanel
TBD
Michael Rider - Celine

Thank you for the recap, I think the first to show is Peter Copping with Lanvin menswear. I am half excited to see what he is coming up with, it will be his very first menswear offering.

Just hope I won't be biased by my own nostalgia for Lucas Ossendrijver Lanvin, I was a huge fan (and buyer).

 

[proseccotabis]

I have to agree with you. I really wanted Galliano at Chanel believe it or not, but since that isn't going to happen I want him to get his own house back from LVMH!!!

I feel that his bff RR bought the brand to keep JG within OTB. Hoping this fantasy is true lol.

I do buy Loewe consistently every season. I dont necessarily always like what I see on the runway but the stuff in the shops are great, even the collabs are great, the vases are great and the bags are great. I quite like the pseudo-or-not intellectualism around it, funky in a good way and very wearable.

PS going to Loewe? Pretty sure I will stop watching them, it is like Victoria Beckham taking over YSL next kinda awful.

same here… was it really difficult to find someone that they ended up with PS boys?

 

[LadyJunon]

I think that there's two big reason as to why they would choose the PS duo:
- Seeing how they cast Rider for Celine, they're probably trying to shift a couple of their brands to become the European answer to iuxury sportswear (Ralph Lauren, Khaite, The Row) that seems to be dominating the market long-term.
- They want to retain the illusion of being a designer-led brand (Loewe is still very small compared to LV, CD, Celine), otherwise they would've simply promoted internally with minimal fanfare.

 

[jeanclaude]

Well...more Phoebe clones, but with a Loewe tag this time.

 

[nationalsalt]

I'm curious, who would people have preferred to go to Loewe than the PS guys?

 

[Kennnnn]

I'm curious, who would people have preferred to go to Loewe than the PS guys?

Francesco Risso
Chitose Abe (Sacai)
Grace Wales Bonner
Daniel Lee

 

[proseccotabis]

Francesco Risso
Chitose Abe (Sacai)
Grace Wales Bonner
Daniel Lee

DL would be great there!! Wales Bonner.. don’t know why she hasn’t been snapped by some big conglomerate yet? Chitose is fabulous. Is Risso still in Marni?

 

[Kennnnn]

DL would be great there!! Wales Bonner.. don’t know why she hasn’t been snapped by some big conglomerate yet? Chitose is fabulous. Is Risso still in Marni?

Yes, and he's probably very comfortable at Marni. It took me some time to warm up to him, but he's done really well the last couple of seasons. I don't know about Wales Bonner - it might not be a bad thing to focus on her own label, and keep building on her collaboration with Adidas.i hope she keeps improving.

I would really love a Japanese "fashion" voice at LVMH. There's Nigo at Kenzo, but I wouldn't consider him part of the fashion conversation.

 

[proseccotabis]

Yes, and he's probably very comfortable at Marni. It took me some time to warm up to him, but he's done really well the last couple of seasons. I don't know about Wales Bonner - it might not be a bad thing to focus on her own label, and keep building on her collaboration with Adidas.i hope she keeps improving.

I would really love a Japanese "fashion" voice at LVMH. There's Nigo at Kenzo, but I wouldn't consider him part of the fashion conversation.

I really like what Grace is doing, she has a voice and a vision and I love that.
Ohh I just refreshed my mind with what he has done at marni so far. as a huge fashion lover and enthusiast I find it very difficult to desire anything that Risso does. Very pseudo intellectual stuff that i would say is very difficult to translate into retail. I wonder if it sells at all??

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Grace is this a joke lamo?
She is ripping off Lotta's Miu Miu

 

[ellearchivist]

I think DL just needs to get out of Burberry and head to somewhere that his skills can be appreciated. That CEO there clearly wants to be the star of the company!

 

[brandon J pierre]

Thank you for the recap, I think the first to show is Peter Copping with Lanvin menswear. I am half excited to see what he is coming up with, it will be his very first menswear offering.

Just hope I won't be biased by my own nostalgia for Lucas Ossendrijver Lanvin, I was a huge fan (and buyer).

This should be good

 

[Xone]

Francesco Risso
Chitose Abe (Sacai)
Grace Wales Bonner
Daniel Lee

Only Chitose works for me...

 

[Xone]

WWD on Instagram: "@proenzaschouler founders Jack McCollough ( @jackmccollough) and Lazaro Hernandez ( @lazro) are stepping down as creative directors of the brand they founded in 2022.⁠ ⁠ Their exit is effective Jan. 31 and the two men are working in tandem with Proenza Schouler chief executive officer Shira Suveyke Snyder to find a new creative lead for the brand, prized for an esthetic this newspaper once described as “anti-minimal modernism.”⁠ ⁠ Disclosing the development exclusively to WWD, McCollough and Hernandez said they would remain company shareholders and serve on the Proenza Schouler board.⁠ ⁠ Read more at WWD.com — #linkinbio⁠ ⁠ Report: @milessocha"

 

[helmutnotdead]

they should close Proenza.

 

[NoInvite]

At this point it the game, what do the PS duo has to offer to fashion?
Their website is buffet of Old Celine, Jil, The Row, Lemaire, Bottega.

If this is true, have fun at the buffet! Bon Appétit!