Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Thefrenchy]

^ This Christophe Decarnin erasure...

 

[Lola701]

^^
Balmain wouldn’t be Balmain without Christophe Decarnin and Emmanuelle Alt.
They made the brand hot. They made it hot enough for Olivier Rousteing to want to join the studio in 2009…
Nobody was touching or looking at Balmain before Decarnin.

Hedi’s vision at Balmain is masterful; the house is poised impeccably for him to come in, particularly with the refinement of its leather goods and definition of its fragrance.

As for Dior Femme, it seems evident that JWA is being positioned there due to the maison’s antiquated handbag offerings. I might argue that considerable efforts will be made to ensure he ends up there for that very reason alone.

Meanwhile, Maria Grazia Chiuri's expansive boutique collections will continue to ensure that those loyal to her aesthetic may indulge in her designs long after her departure.

Dior stands on the precipice of a bold runway reinvention.

One of the critical missteps with John Galliano was tasking him with a boutique line. As evidenced by resale markets - it failed to leave a lasting impression. Now the house has elegantly fixed this issue, affording itself the freedom to present JWA’s runway vision without the constraints of commercial wearability.

If they are changing designers, they will change everything.
There’s no reason to have a different offer on stores from what is shown on the runway.

This is something that executives have understood overtime. Even if the runway show stuff is produced in limited quantities, available through orders or only available in selected stores, you needs to have a streamlined and cohesive vision from the runway to the store.

I feel like MGC shot herself in the foot by re-releasing the Saddle. She discontinued a lot of successful Raf’s modern bags. Except for the book tote and the Saddle, all her bags flopped so yes, JWA will probably do another overhaul of their bag offering.

And in reality, a lot of stuff will end up in outlets or Dior will limit the production of MGC’s last few collections. Because Dior is not growing because the product has been so consistent over the years.

But I don’t agree with the idea that it was a bad idea to have John being responsible for the boutique collections. The problem was that John was responsible for everything but also that because he was dressing a younger crowd in the early 2000’s, he was totally fine with the idea of delivering crazy ideas to sell J’adore Dior tshirts, satin tracksuit jackets and loud bags.

However, when Dior became more conservative in 2007, there was a real cohesive message and creative direction. But I don’t think the Vintage Market cares for that Dior because Gen-Z is not interested in looking like a conservative bourgeoise. But I know that they sold a lot of RTW. And Dior has managed to be in that vain really since then. RAF was also bourgeois and conservative, maybe more fun. MGC is more safe.

 

[br3ncon1]

^^
Balmain wouldn’t be Balmain without Christophe Decarnin and Emmanuelle Alt.
They made the brand hot. They made it hot enough for Olivier Rousteing to want to join the studio in 2009…
Nobody was touching or looking at Balmain before Decarnin.

If they are changing designers, they will change everything.
There’s no reason to have a different offer on stores from what is shown on the runway.

This is something that executives have understood overtime. Even if the runway show stuff is produced in limited quantities, available through orders or only available in selected stores, you needs to have a streamlined and cohesive vision from the runway to the store.

I feel like MGC shot herself in the foot by re-releasing the Saddle. She discontinued a lot of successful Raf’s modern bags. Except for the book tote and the Saddle, all her bags flopped so yes, JWA will probably do another overhaul of their bag offering.

And in reality, a lot of stuff will end up in outlets or Dior will limit the production of MGC’s last few collections. Because Dior is not growing because the product has been so consistent over the years.

But I don’t agree with the idea that it was a bad idea to have John being responsible for the boutique collections. The problem was that John was responsible for everything but also that because he was dressing a younger crowd in the early 2000’s, he was totally fine with the idea of delivering crazy ideas to sell J’adore Dior tshirts, satin tracksuit jackets and loud bags.

However, when Dior became more conservative in 2007, there was a real cohesive message and creative direction. But I don’t think the Vintage Market cares for that Dior because Gen-Z is not interested in looking like a conservative bourgeoise. But I know that they sold a lot of RTW. And Dior has managed to be in that vain really since then. RAF was also bourgeois and conservative, maybe more fun. MGC is more safe.

Yeah there's tons of bags at the outlets in London and the salespeople are desperate to sell them off lol: https://share.christiandior.com/a0k5J00000XVOWXQA5

 

[Nimsay]

Ok. So then JWA has an enormous amount of work to do.

Maria discontinuing the Panorama is crazy.

Yes Dior has been releasing flop bags for a while now.

 

[Xone]

Yeah there's tons of bags at the outlets in London and the salespeople are desperate to sell them off lol: https://share.christiandior.com/a0k5J00000XVOWXQA5

Damn that's a lot of different bags...some are hideous...

 

[Lola701]

Yeah there's tons of bags at the outlets in London and the salespeople are desperate to sell them off lol: https://share.christiandior.com/a0k5J00000XVOWXQA5

Yes the last time I went to London, I had time to go to the outlet and Dior has a lot of stuff. The irony is that the RTW is fine. I think even the logo stuff can sell still. The problem is really the bags and not necessarily the embroidered versions.

A bag like the bowling with the whole Christian Dior thing! Who is this for? It is as tacky as the bags from the Dior Hardcore/ Dior addict era.

Valentino will have the same issue with Michele’s stuff by the way.

I’m so mad that MGC discontinued the Diorissimo! That was a great bag from Raf. Thankfully there are pristine versions on the second hand market.

 

[fenty]

Wow the Dior logo is so hard to look at

 

[Creative]

Alledgely MGC doesn’t want to go to any brand that’s not the top 5 and it’s totally understandable. It’s like if you are the manager of Dior and then go to Fendi… a downgrade.

That’s why I didn’t understand people thinking she would go to Fendi.

Also the fact that her daughter allegedly stopped working at LVMH was already giving hints that things were not smooth between her and LVMH.

 

[proseccotabis]

Damn that's a lot of different bags...some are hideous...

I wasn’t prepared for such a large amount of horror and had to have a glass of wine afterwards to calm down

 

[Xone]

I wasn’t prepared for such a large amount of horror and had to have a glass of wine afterwards to calm down

Hahahaha why there is a need to produce so many types of bags? For what ? To finish in the outlet?

 

[justpassingthrough]

Yeah there's tons of bags at the outlets in London and the salespeople are desperate to sell them off lol: https://share.christiandior.com/a0k5J00000XVOWXQA5

I’m sorry, what???

 

[proseccotabis]

Hahahaha why there is a need to produce so many types of bags? For what ? To finish in the outlet?

From what I see in London - Paris - Milan, largely on Asian / Russian customers, for example, it seems to be selling. Yes, to my shock and horror

View attachment 1344301
I’m sorry, what???

If they keep releasing bags like that people will start allowing to be seduced by Phillip Plein or Versace bags…..

 

[yslforever]

^ This Christophe Decarnin erasure...

Oscar de la Renta anyone ?