Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[oioioi]

I know there are actual civil wars and poverty going on.
But within the fashionsphere I would be so stressed being a Creative Director in 2025.
From the options of being ripped apart online after a quick scroll where you can't even see your fabric development, people often only looking at the front view very quickly before making a decision in 2 seconds. To working for a conservative brand who wants to join the fashion conversation but doesn't understand why it's struggling after only 1 season when it has a brand DNA that relies on loafers and dated purses, not implementing any management structure to support the CD in parallel.
To not having enough tiktok views despite being more conservative, evening wear, to signing up for a brand who in which they did a project for to upscale the range, got the job and 1 year later arriving to find a new Chinese company is buying them with interest to turn everything into a licensee line.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I feel like the CD spot at Ferragamo is going to open very soon too…

Kenzo too

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I know there are actual civil wars and poverty going on.
But within the fashionsphere I would be so stressed being a Creative Director in 2025.
From the options of being ripped apart online after a quick scroll where you can't even see your fabric development, people often only looking at the front view very quickly before making a decision in 2 seconds. To working for a conservative brand who wants to join the fashion conversation but doesn't understand why it's struggling after only 1 season when it has a brand DNA that relies on loafers and dated purses, not implementing any management structure to support the CD in parallel.
To not having enough tiktok views despite being more conservative, evening wear, to signing up for a brand who in which they did a project for to upscale the range, got the job and 1 year later arriving to find a new Chinese company is buying them with interest to turn everything into a licensee line.

If they are making a few hundred thousands to millions, it's all part of the deal
I don't feel bad for them, a million girls would kill for their jobs

 

[BalkaniStaCouture]

Daniel Lee is at Jil Sander, JW Anderson is still at Loewe, Proenza Schouler designers are still at Proenza Schouler. Those last two are rumors.

What are you talking about. OMG please read the stuff around. Daniel is nowhere near Jil. Simone Bellotti is at Jil Sander. Demna is at Gucci and the rest are rumors. And just that. MGC is still at Dior. New documentary just had premiere… Honestly nobody cares about JW Anderson.

 

[ChicVogueSair]

What are you talking about. OMG please read the stuff around. Daniel is nowhere near Jil. Simone Bellotti is at Jil Sander. Demna is at Gucci and the rest are rumors. And just that. MGC is still at Dior. New documentary just had premiere… Honestly nobody cares about JW Anderson.

What are you talking about. OMG please get your head out of your ***. I'm very well aware that MGC is still at Dior I never disputed that. Demna is at Gucci, unfortunately. I got some wrong info, therefore, I misconstrued a rumor and I did this brand new thing called double checking info and I was wrong. Belotti is at Jil Sander. Happy? Don't single me out and take that tone with me because I made a mistake. You don't care about JW Anderson, honestly, so you're speaking for yourself.

 

[Thefrenchy]

^ Guys, there's enough fashion drama happening to add to that tFS High School drama

 

[ChicVogueSair]

^ Guys, there's enough fashion drama happening to add to that tFS High School drama

True. I just take issue when someone not only gets rude with me, but also actively tries to exclude me from speculation even if I turn out to be wrong.

 

[LostInNJ]

If they are making a few hundred thousands to millions, it's all part of the deal
I don't feel bad for them, a million girls would kill for their jobs

And a host of possible mental health issues to go along with it.

I think oioioi made very valid points. I think fashion is in a sad state at the moment. Never has it been more about the profits over creativity and an actual voice than now and it is evident by some recent appointments.

 

[ChicVogueSair]

And a host of possible mental health issues to go along with it.

I think oioioi made very valid points. I think fashion is in a sad state at the moment. Never has it been more about the profits over creativity and an actual voice than now and it is evident by some recent appointments.

Agreed.

 

[Salvatore]

And a host of possible mental health issues to go along with it.

Totally. Creativity is very taxing mentally and so many creatives seem to not address mental healthcare, resorting to other vices and self-sabotage.

 

[tourbillions]

how can people know what tone the messages written here were meant to be?

 

[blueorchid]

What’s next for John Hedi and PPP?

Why is it so outrageous to think that at least John and Hedi might be in the "retirement" stages of their careers (at least for now)? Let them do other projects. Let Hedi take photographs, compile or write a book, whatever. John... my god... MESS. I don't think he belongs anywhere but his eponymous brand at this point. PPP? I dunno what he does, but... still.

 

[KilltheLook]

Honestly, a brand should just give its Haute Couture division to John. That will be money well spent for a branding exercise. I still think John has one last chapter in his career to write.

Not sure about Hedi, but he would be a great creative director for a consumer brand/art gallery.

PPP are we sure he has any steam left in him?

 

[justpassingthrough]

Didn’t someone mention murmurs of JG doing Chanel couture or did I just make that up?

 

[Creative]

Didn’t someone mention murmurs of JG doing Chanel couture or did I just make that up?

It’s Matthieu for Chanel. They mentioned Galliano for Hermès Couture (what’s the need for this?).

I feel we are at the end of a cicle. There’s something weird going on. I feel clients are suffocated by so much <<groundbreakingness>> everywhere, and they want to find something more real and understated. I feel the way people buy luxury in, let’s say, the lower segments of the client pyramid has changed too. They can do without it and think much more about their purchases.

I feel with the price increases those segments feel a little bit more alienated too…

The influencer era is also dying somehow, they lost the credibility (if they ever had it), so I feel the marketing side is also harder…

I don’t know, I do think it’s exhausting. And I think there’s less talent than ever, in terms of designers and CEOs. They all want to repeat the Dior and LV strategies instead of trying to find what’s unique about their businesses.

I kind of feel that with the Demna & Gucci thing something very negative is crystallizing and it’s not just the fact that he is so demodé for today’s standards. There’s something else that goes beyond my understanding at the moment.

It’s an… I don’t care vibe that I hate. A “whatever, let’s try if it works”. “Let’s fool people”. It doesn’t feel genuine, it doesn’t feel real, it doesn’t feel relevant.

 

[justpassingthrough]

They mentioned Galliano for Hermès Couture (what’s the need for this?).

THATS what it was thank you for the correction

 

[LadyJunon]

It’s Matthieu for Chanel. They mentioned Galliano for Hermès Couture (what’s the need for this?).

I feel we are at the end of a cicle. There’s something weird going on. I feel clients are suffocated by so much <<groundbreakingness>> everywhere, and they want to find something more real and understated. I feel the way people buy luxury in, let’s say, the lower segments of the client pyramid has changed too. They can do without it and think much more about their purchases.

I feel with the price increases those segments feel a little bit more alienated too…

The influencer era is also dying somehow, they lost the credibility (if they ever had it), so I feel the marketing side is also harder…

I don’t know, I do think it’s exhausting. And I think there’s less talent than ever, in terms of designers and CEOs. They all want to repeat the Dior and LV strategies instead of trying to find what’s unique about their businesses.

I kind of feel that with the Demna & Gucci thing something very negative is crystallizing and it’s not just the fact that he is so demodé for today’s standards. There’s something else that goes beyond my understanding at the moment.

It’s an… I don’t care vibe that I hate. A “whatever, let’s try if it works”. “Let’s fool people”. It doesn’t feel genuine, it doesn’t feel real, it doesn’t feel relevant.

To be honest, I see a lot of designers throwing in the towel with high-end and taking up newly-created CD positions at mass-market/contemporary brands. Meanwhile, luxury brands will go on full autopilot with studio-led collections that exist as white noise for the bags.

 

[Lola701]

how can people know what tone the messages written here were meant to be?

It’s quite easy actually…
The use of over dramatic terms and some expressions tells you a lot about the intention sometimes. People tends to write like they talks.