Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[KilltheLook]

Oh I love Diotima! Fantastic indeed.
It would be ironic that she manages to create an identity for PS. And with a little bit of chance, it will be slightly original now.

Pierre Hardy has been doing the Joaillerie/Haute Joaillerie for Hermes for years. He was just asked because he had the imagination and a talent in designs.
I like to believe that if you design, you are curious enough to learn about the world you are entering.
And Victoire came from costume jewelry. So sometimes, having this kind of « not specialists » touch in the beginning could be a great thing. Her earlier collections, and the stones she pushed forward in Haute Joaillerie helped solidify Dior in that world.

I talked about Gnori for him. Maybe he could introduce a collection of high jewelry there and Kering will have their Tiffany.
I can see a future for Alessandro in fashion, but in a much smaller scale than Valentino….Unless they hire him for the Lacroix relaunch.

I honestly think PUIG should just purchased Lacroix and gave the man his old job. He's capable of modernity (look at his collaboration with Dries).

AM can do Codognato... Is Francesca still there?

 

[Lola701]

I honestly think PUIG should just purchased Lacroix and gave the man his old job. He's capable of modernity (look at his collaboration with Dries).

AM can do Codognato... Is Francesca still there?

In my ideal world, Lacroix should remain closed and Christian should continue to do his costumes and maybe make some clothes for some private clients and projects.
We don’t need more brands anymore. Even more brands that always had that « désuet » appeal.
He designed for a fantasy. He is a couturier. Does he need to force himself into selling clothes to a mass? I don’t know.

I don’t think that Christian would love working in the current fashion environment. There’s a lot of commercialism. I don’t know if he would be up for the game. He had fun with Dries. He had fun with the Schiaparelli collection. I don’t think he would have fun with his brand.

 

[hamburgers]

Who in the what and from where?

Local brand hires local designer to make clothes and accessories for local market.

That being said I think she will do great, but it's kind of funny that the hype for her started when she hit the Phoebe Philo Celine button for her collections. At least they're self-aware over there at Proenza HQ...

 

[youthinasia]

Local brand hires local designer to make clothes and accessories for local market.

That being said I think she will do great, but it's kind of funny that the hype for her started when she hit the Phoebe Philo Celine button for her collections. At least they're self-aware over there at Proenza HQ...

Currently looking through her collections. She at least has some sort of aesthetic that isn’t a true carbon copy of Phoebe Philo/The Row/JWA’s Loewe. Just hope she doesn’t bring in the doilies that she’s known for.

 

[Thefrenchy]

Back to school and back to industry chatters... Allegedly, we're in for a surprise resignation. But the twist is: it won't this year, more likely end of the next one. Too much money has been invested (new stores etc) to agree to an "earlier" departure. The brand is (or seems to be) doing fine, but he allegedly is a nightmare to work with. The question is: why would he be so vocal already and let suits know he wants out? Does he have his eyes on another house?

Those recent nominations are just part one of what is to come in the next couple years...

 

[Lola701]

Back to school and back to industry chatters... Allegedly, we're in for a surprise resignation. But the twist is: it won't this year, more likely end of the next one. Too much money has been invested (new stores etc) to agree to an "earlier" departure. The brand is (or seems to be) doing fine, but he allegedly is a nightmare to work with. The question is: why would he be so vocal already and let suits know he wants out? Does he have his eyes on another house?

Those recent nominations are just part one of what is to come in the next couple years...

It does sound like my favorite….

 

[LadyJunon]

Back to school and back to industry chatters... Allegedly, we're in for a surprise resignation. But the twist is: it won't this year, more likely end of the next one. Too much money has been invested (new stores etc) to agree to an "earlier" departure. The brand is (or seems to be) doing fine, but he allegedly is a nightmare to work with. The question is: why would he be so vocal already and let suits know he wants out? Does he have his eyes on another house?

Those recent nominations are just part one of what is to come in the next couple years...

For some weird reason, I feel like it's either going to be Di Felice at Courreges or Mulier at Alaia. They seem to be the only designers who fit that description.

 

[Lola701]

For some weird reason, I feel like it's either going to be Di Felice at Courreges or Mulier at Alaia. They seem to be the only designers who fit that description.

Or Haider…

 

[Salvatore]

Ouf here we go again. I am weary. It sounds like Mulier to me especially with the new boutique on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. The « vocal already » makes me wonder, though, as Mulier has been there for a bit and it wouldn't be a surprise. It kind of makes me think it's one of the recent hires like Michael Rider, Glenn Martens, Duran Lantink, or Julian Klausner ... or Haider like Lola said. I honestly have no idea. I assume it's someone here in Paris, though.

 

[LadyJunon]

Or Haider…

Wait, has Zegna/EL done any store renovations for TF though?

 

[FashionPower]

Or Haider…

That was the first name that came up to my mind too! We know he's kinda difficult to deal with...and he is waiting a full year and a half to allow Zegna to build a proper return of investment for the creative direction and subsequent changes post Hawkings

 

[Avonlea]

I also thought about Haider, but wouldn't it be too early? Mulier seems more possible, but he doesn't strike me as someone who could be difficult to work with.

 

[reese06]

Muilier has been at the house a while to the point where it wouldn’t be surprising.

Haider makes sense as the industry seems to widely agree he is a good fit.

But have they invested in stores. The e-commerce store is still a hot mess

 

[fenty]

Pieter can go tbh, he peaked long ago, and it seems like he's just doing whatever at this point

 

[PDFSD]

Or Haider…

TF stores are same as far as i know there was no plan to redesign stores under haider ...my first feeling was Mulier at Alaia they did new stores under him and the brand is doing fine and his diva is comming out :-)

 

[Lola701]

TF stores are same as far as i know there was no plan to redesign stores under haider ...my first feeling was Mulier at Alaia they did new stores under him and the brand is doing fine and his diva is comming out :-)

It’s weird I didn’t expect from him to be difficult to work.
My favorite Haider has a history of walking out so his name came to mind quickly.

They should get Vauthier to do Alaia or the Standing Ground guy.

Maybe he was asked by Blazy to join him at Chanel and direct the Couture lol. Or maybe Versace under the Prada group.

 

[PDFSD]

It’s weird I didn’t expect from him to be difficult to work.
My favorite Haider has a history of walking out so his name came to mind quickly.

They should get Vauthier to do Alaia or the Standing Ground guy.

Maybe he was asked by Blazy to join him at Chanel and direct the Couture lol. Or maybe Versace under the Prada group.

i could see him at versace he is buddy of raf after all....also prada knows Dario is not a star designer and even if i am not in love with Pieter´s handling of ALAIA his pseudo intellectual sexy commercial is perfect fit for versace under Prada ownership.

and prada´s son understands better Pieters smart sexy version of Versace than Dario´s ancora vibe weak directionless rookie attempts, he is a straight italian young man closer to his father taste in life and fashion than is publicly known :-)

makes sense to me i would not be surprised pieter goes to versace

just before august i did hear HA at TOM Ford old (bad) ways are showing up already, but the part of investments etc does not line up so far .

 

[yslforever]

I also thought about Haider, but wouldn't it be too early? Mulier seems more possible, but he doesn't strike me as someone who could be difficult to work with.

The only one with major and costly boutique remodels I can recall is Mulier; Alaia's new boutique across Hermès used to be Lanvin mens building, which I would assess at 150/200 m€.

Wait, has Zegna/EL done any store renovations for TF though?

None, and Estée Lauder does not have the funds, all the fashion operations are 100% Zegna.

So Mulier for Hermès Haute Couture ?

Also what about Rousteing ?

 

[hamburgers]

Courreges has also been expanding stores and wholesale accounts with the profits from DiFelice.

They closed their ratty store in le marais near ogata and moved nearby into the post office by musee carnavalet as a flagship. There’s one in la now at south coast plaza and one in nyc in soho and I think a few in Korea. They’re all subprime retail real estate, but still investments.

I could see him being considered for a couple of brands including Versace since he worked with Raf at Dior and Miuccia is a fan of Ghesquiere. He is also maybe looking at the big appointments of everyone else around his age (Matthieu, Glenn, Vacarello, JW, Demna) and itching to leave for something bigger.

 

[oioioi]

First thought is Pieter based on description, he's been going into fully fledged unprofessional behaviour at Alaia for the last 2 years (increasingly getting worse and people jumping ship because its not worth it to them). He is hungry to be instated as CD at a big name, it is known within ex colleagues and design circles. On the outside he is saying he doesn't want to meet a merchandiser ever again like big how companies operate but he wants it (with good intentions though to 'look after the historical name').

Di Felice has a drug problem but he is not anymore difficult to work for than Ghesquiere it's a similar rigorous process and standard. They have a tumultuous turn around of PD's who can't keep up with him launching new protos 2 weeks before the show, but it seems he's also happy to grow Courreges, unless he wants to get clean for a bit.

Miuccia more likely to choose a non-Italian name to do Versace post-Vitale..