Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Tchi]

Chemena Kamali at Chloé is a known problematic CD, premiers d’atelier resigning after each season and the headhunters are really struggling recruiting for the studio because of the bad rep.
Pieter at Alaia also has a horrid rep.
But I don’t think richemont cares so much about ethics so its probably not one of them.
I heard horror stories about Dario at Versace.
NDF at courreges is notoriously toxic, as it has been mentioned…
Is Haider really that hard to work with?

 

[oioioi]

Chemena Kamali at Chloé is a known problematic CD, premiers d’atelier resigning after each season and the headhunters are really struggling recruiting for the studio because of the bad rep.
Pieter at Alaia also has a horrid rep.
But I don’t think richemont cares so much about ethics so its probably not one of them.
I heard horror stories about Dario at Versace.
NDF at courreges is notoriously toxic, as it has been mentioned…
Is Haider really that hard to work with?

Ding ding ding, correct on all..

 

[Avonlea]

I am surprised to read that Mulier has a bad reputation. I expected him to be pretentious, but nothing else. What does he do?

 

[GERGIN]

Chemena Kamali at Chloé is a known problematic CD, premiers d’atelier resigning after each season and the headhunters are really struggling recruiting for the studio because of the bad rep.
Pieter at Alaia also has a horrid rep.
But I don’t think richemont cares so much about ethics so its probably not one of them.
I heard horror stories about Dario at Versace.
NDF at courreges is notoriously toxic, as it has been mentioned…
Is Haider really that hard to work with?

If Chemena can continue pull out beautiful collections like, then I support her problematic nature.

 

[oioioi]

I am surprised to read that Mulier has a bad reputation. I expected him to be pretentious, but nothing else. What does he do?

I would think those don't want to say too specifically the examples on a public forum.
It's usually non-seamstress related, like his Dior reputation it was about the relationship with the studio, art direction, image collaborators. There are no ex collaborators at Alaia from his Dior, CK, Jil (only 1 who did CK Home and joined Alaia briefly at the beginning on non-design duties and left soon after).

Does the industry even care? Don't think so, for the public and insiders as long as the sales and image are good.

Chemena constantly flaunting she's a mother and wants to empower women, running to hug her son at the finale of every show with a huge smile, yet her studio is full of mothers bullied who never get to see their children. Phoebe same, selling 4k MUM necklaces, as an ode to all the mothers out there - as long as a mum in her team can work till 1am everynight, every weekend.

 

[oioioi]

Besides that the more interesting part is, which house could that said person end up!
Maybe replacing Vaccarello at SL ?! Lol.

 

[Lola701]

Difficult sometimes can mean anything. A designer being rigorous with high standard is different from someone who is just a pain in a a**.
In general the quality of a designer can be seen through his collaborators. People who stays for a longtime or who also go back.

I think it’s telling that Blazy for example got his people from BV following him at Chanel and Pieter had nobody from his previous stint.

The Atelier is the heart of a house and the foundation of a studio so designers « knows their place » for that.

Wait, has Zegna/EL done any store renovations for TF though?

No they have been opening stores during the period between Haider and Hawkings. And they were planning to move the studio to Paris (so it make sense for them to plan new stores even more with the restructuration in distribution). And yes, it’s 100% Zegna responsibility.

i could see him at versace he is buddy of raf after all....also prada knows Dario is not a star designer and even if i am not in love with Pieter´s handling of ALAIA his pseudo intellectual sexy commercial is perfect fit for versace under Prada ownership.

and prada´s son understands better Pieters smart sexy version of Versace than Dario´s ancora vibe weak directionless rookie attempts, he is a straight italian young man closer to his father taste in life and fashion than is publicly known :-)

makes sense to me i would not be surprised pieter goes to versace

just before august i did hear HA at TOM Ford old (bad) ways are showing up already, but the part of investments etc does not line up so far .

Pieter worked for Raf, so he can do menswear. He followed him at Dior so he could potentially do Atelier Versace. And he is doing a kind of tortured sexy, which nevertheless seems fitting for Versace. It could be the white knight for Prada.

For me Tom Ford is like the perfect business card for Haider. With his debut collection being well received, Zegna/EL seems willing to go for it. Organizing an event during Venice Film festival for a flanker of a best seller is a bit over the top. I hope however that he will not runaway. The industry may not be kind to him if ever he leaves TF without a decent long tenure.

Also what about Rousteing ?

I have been told that Rousteing has a permanent contract with Balmain. I cannot confirm, just from someone who was working for Balmain years ago.
Apparently, the previous owners made him sign a CDI and while the terms of his contract have changed in terms of salary, he would likely be still under that CDI.
So they may likely arrange his depart but there’s no expiration date on that contract.

 

[oioioi]

Difficult sometimes can mean anything. A designer being rigorous with high standard is different from someone who is just a pain in a a**.
In general the quality of a designer can be seen through his collaborators. People who stays for a longtime or who also go back.

Definitely, and definitely why I do go to defend Di Felice - I think Courreges was really in the bottom of the barrel perception and product wise before. They didn’t even have an atelier when he arrived and through acquaintances were told he basically lived in the studio for 4 years because everything was from scratch (unlike Alaia at least that had that savoir faire structure in place and a business).
His working process and expectations are just like that of Ghesquiere who he worked with most of his career.

It’s also possible to be both an ***hole and a good designer expecting only the best (consider Phoebe to fall under there).
Dario, like every other ex Prada solider doesn’t. They are mean for the sake for it because it’s all they ever learnt.

 

[style_expert]

Probably Pieter, I guess. His name had already been floating around in connection with the Chanel and Balenciaga positions earlier.
And with his ex being the CD at Chanel and his former boss/collaborator Raf Simons ruining Prada, maybe Alaïa is starting to feel a bit too humble for him. At this stage, it’s about prestige—and, as always, the $$$.

I understand why a struggling house would want him: he’s turned Alaïa into a commercial success, producing more new hit products than most. But as we’ve seen, lightning rarely strikes twice when it comes to a great designer run.

I could imagine him at Versace or Saint Laurent, though I’m far from enthusiastic about that prospect.

 

[yslforever]

Probably Pieter, I guess. His name had already been floating around in connection with the Chanel and Balenciaga positions earlier.
And with his ex being the CD at Chanel and his former boss/collaborator Raf Simons ruining Prada, maybe Alaïa is starting to feel a bit too humble for him. At this stage, it’s about prestige—and, as always, the $$$.

I understand why a struggling house would want him: he’s turned Alaïa into a commercial success, producing more new hit products than most. But as we’ve seen, lightning rarely strikes twice when it comes to a great designer run.

I could imagine him at Versace or Saint Laurent, though I’m far from enthusiastic about that prospect.

A Couture experienced designers will be welcome at YSL, as well as someone able to design properly flattering womens trousers.
Also some daywear and office wear, because current YSL is evening wear/after dark only .
And most importantly a proper bags line, it’s time to move on from the current line-up
Also someone who is as could as a story teller than AV.
I am curious about Haider at Tom Ford cause I think he might be able to pull it off at YSL.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

It is Haider at Tom Ford. I met Haider Ackermann this year and it was horrific. He was rude, not classy and he lost a long time Ackermaniac that day. I walked into the Tom Ford boutique and say hello he replies with "fat" and I shook it off because I thought maybe I had heard him wrong. As I approached him and asked to do my pose he stared at me blank faced. I continued talking "you saved my life" I say. "You're the reason I'm alive today". He looks me dead in the eye and says "you'll die soon enough, fatty" and then whispered "obesity". I started crying I had never felt pain like this and he started laughing and said "are you crying? Stop it. Stop it now" and he flicked my vagina. The photographer took the picture and I headed out of the store and that's when Haider started speaking whale to me. I still can't believe this happened. I cried writing this. I wish this weren't true but Haider Ackermann is in fact; a horrible person. Thank you for reading this. And if you don't believe me ask @/volft he was there with me.

 

[LadyJunon]

It is Haider at Tom Ford. I met Haider Ackermann this year and it was horrific. He was rude, not classy and he lost a long time Ackermaniac that day. I walked into the Tom Ford boutique and say hello he replies with "fat" and I shook it off because I thought maybe I had heard him wrong. As I approached him and asked to do my pose he stared at me blank faced. I continued talking "you saved my life" I say. "You're the reason I'm alive today". He looks me dead in the eye and says "you'll die soon enough, fatty" and then whispered "obesity". I started crying I had never felt pain like this and he started laughing and said "are you crying? Stop it. Stop it now" and he flicked my vagina. The photographer took the picture and I headed out of the store and that's when Haider started speaking whale to me. I still can't believe this happened. I cried writing this. I wish this weren't true but Haider Ackermann is in fact; a horrible person. Thank you for reading this. And if you don't believe me ask @/volft he was there with me.

The fact that I actually believed this until I read "and he flicked my vagina" really shows how lowly I think of designers as a whole.

 

[oioioi]

It is Haider at Tom Ford. I met Haider Ackermann this year and it was horrific. He was rude, not classy and he lost a long time Ackermaniac that day. I walked into the Tom Ford boutique and say hello he replies with "fat" and I shook it off because I thought maybe I had heard him wrong. As I approached him and asked to do my pose he stared at me blank faced. I continued talking "you saved my life" I say. "You're the reason I'm alive today". He looks me dead in the eye and says "you'll die soon enough, fatty" and then whispered "obesity". I started crying I had never felt pain like this and he started laughing and said "are you crying? Stop it. Stop it now" and he flicked my vagina. The photographer took the picture and I headed out of the store and that's when Haider started speaking whale to me. I still can't believe this happened. I cried writing this. I wish this weren't true but Haider Ackermann is in fact; a horrible person. Thank you for reading this. And if you don't believe me ask @/volft he was there with me.

Case closed!

 

[Salvatore]

It is Haider at Tom Ford. I met Haider Ackermann this year and it was horrific. He was rude, not classy and he lost a long time Ackermaniac that day. I walked into the Tom Ford boutique and say hello he replies with "fat" and I shook it off because I thought maybe I had heard him wrong. As I approached him and asked to do my pose he stared at me blank faced. I continued talking "you saved my life" I say. "You're the reason I'm alive today". He looks me dead in the eye and says "you'll die soon enough, fatty" and then whispered "obesity". I started crying I had never felt pain like this and he started laughing and said "are you crying? Stop it. Stop it now" and he flicked my vagina. The photographer took the picture and I headed out of the store and that's when Haider started speaking whale to me. I still can't believe this happened. I cried writing this. I wish this weren't true but Haider Ackermann is in fact; a horrible person. Thank you for reading this. And if you don't believe me ask @/volft he was there with me.

What is wrong with you ? Whatever it is, I love it 😂

 

[PDFSD]

What is wrong with you ? Whatever it is, I love it 😂

pronounce is legend .......with a name ( @susseinmcswanny) and bio pic like that what do we expect :-)
it made my day.

 

[GERGIN]

It is Haider at Tom Ford. I met Haider Ackermann this year and it was horrific. He was rude, not classy and he lost a long time Ackermaniac that day. I walked into the Tom Ford boutique and say hello he replies with "fat" and I shook it off because I thought maybe I had heard him wrong. As I approached him and asked to do my pose he stared at me blank faced. I continued talking "you saved my life" I say. "You're the reason I'm alive today". He looks me dead in the eye and says "you'll die soon enough, fatty" and then whispered "obesity". I started crying I had never felt pain like this and he started laughing and said "are you crying? Stop it. Stop it now" and he flicked my vagina. The photographer took the picture and I headed out of the store and that's when Haider started speaking whale to me. I still can't believe this happened. I cried writing this. I wish this weren't true but Haider Ackermann is in fact; a horrible person. Thank you for reading this. And if you don't believe me ask @/volft he was there with me.

These are stories I have with strangers any chance I get, too good LOL!

 

[Salvatore]

pronounce is legend .......with a name ( @susseinmcswanny) and bio pic like that what do we expect :-)
it made my day.

Icon. Legend. The Moment. @susseinmcswanny 😂

 

[hamburgers]

Is Haider really that hard to work with?

He was expelled from the Royal Academy of Antwerp for not doing his work and that free-spirited/flighty personality of his hasn’t gone anywhere. I’m surprised he’s not a Gemini…

There are no ex collaborators at Alaia from his Dior, CK, Jil (only 1 who did CK Home and joined Alaia briefly at the beginning on non-design duties and left soon after).

In his defense the Alaia studio was less than like 10 people, and in an interview he said he didn’t want to bring anyone because he needed to learn from them since they all worked with Azzedine while he was alive. Clemande left as a consultant because Hermes asked her to be a CD of a new department and that contract expired so she’s now at Prada.

 

[oioioi]

In his defense the Alaia studio was less than like 10 people, and in an interview he said he didn’t want to bring anyone because he needed to learn from them since they all worked with Azzedine while he was alive. Clemande left as a consultant because Hermes asked her to be a CD of a new department and that contract expired so she’s now at Prada.

Yes of course at the beginning, and it was the right idea to tread lightly and respectfully. I meant up to this date venturing into 2026, the team has grown much bigger from then to match the success and workload and some ex peers from ex brands have been asked and politely declined.
Understandable why he may want to go to a bigger house (or whoever this mystery CD is) bigger resources, bigger name to draw people in.

Off topic, but I wonder how Duran is getting on at JPG lol. They are in beginning process of planning opening retail space again.

 

[yslforever]

Off topic, but I wonder how Duran is getting on at JPG lol. They are in beginning process of planning opening retail space again.

That would be the opening party, post-party, of the year...