Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Olaffo]

Can Any TFS expert tell me what silhouettes the writer is talking about

Lauren, is that Burton’s „silhouette of the moment with a prettiness that many shoppers crave” with us in the room ?

 

[TurkicMongol]

What to Watch: Industry Hopes for ‘Burst of Creativity’ in Designer Debuts

Retailers and academics are hoping for a gush of creativity this fashion season with new designers at Dior, Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga and other brands.

wwd.com

 

[youthinasia]

The 'burst of creativity' looks like it's not going to happen anytime soon, unfortunately.

 

[jeanclaude]

Here´s a suggestion for getting a "burst of creativity":

 

[brandon J pierre]

The 'burst of creativity' looks like it's not going to happen anytime soon, unfortunately.

I don't think so not with people working in fear. Also the damn instagram really keeps things in harms way

 

[TurkicMongol]

Instead of playing the sycophants to talk about creativities that is basically non-existent, it is such a shame that no industry professional bothers to think about how this new wave of shuffling CDs will end up in "burst the bubble of luxury industry". The global economy is so bad now that it wouldn't necessarily affect the super rich but it will be much harder to sell craps to the masses who had been driving force of growth in the last decade.

 

[tourbillions]

Even if the customers do come to Givenchy, does that company or conglomerate know how to run a RTW-forward business anymore? Logo sweatshirts don’t count.



People have been wondering aloud why Olivier is still at Balmain and I guess now we know there’s a financial reality to it. I can see Balmain being part of musical chairs round 2.

tbf the givenchy store here didn't have that much llogo pieces. a lot of tailored things and many of the runway things were produced

 

[honnetement]

Instead of playing the sycophants to talk about creativities that is basically non-existent, it is such a shame that no industry professional bothers to think about how this new wave of shuffling CDs will end up in "burst the bubble of luxury industry". The global economy is so bad now that it wouldn't necessarily affect the super rich but it will be much harder to sell craps to the masses who had been driving force of growth in the last decade.

The super rich don’t care. The bubble was fueled by the masses, and now it’s collapsing. “Creativity” is a lie, luxury is perception, and perception dies when money stops moving. The industry is blind, and when this bursts, no runway, no campaign, no influencer will save it.

 

[brandon J pierre]

The super rich don’t care. The bubble was fueled by the masses, and now it’s collapsing. “Creativity” is a lie, luxury is perception, and perception dies when money stops moving. The industry is blind, and when this bursts, no runway, no campaign, no influencer will save it.

⬆️‼️ Fantastic wording there, and thats truly the problem. I'm okay with a couple of these big house falling because the ceo's and the people that own these companies are simply too greedy. It's nothing more than a financial come up. Another group I would love to see fall down are those stupid instagram critics complete morons. I'm going to start turning my time to smaller brands.

 

[PDFSD]

The super rich don’t care. The bubble was fueled by the masses, and now it’s collapsing. “Creativity” is a lie, luxury is perception, and perception dies when money stops moving. The industry is blind, and when this bursts, no runway, no campaign, no influencer will save it.

The top 2 percent of luxury customers drive 40 percent of luxury sales, according to Bain. Engaging and retaining these very important clients (VICs) will remain critical to brands that want to continue to flourish amid the broader market slowdown.29 Jan 2024

and many luxury brands feel it when top spenders feel not inspired or reason to shop.

 

[honnetement]

Relying on the 2% is survival mode, not growth. If the story dies, the spending follows, no matter how wealthy the client.

 

[style_expert]

It's a challenge to please both the 2% of HNWIs and the much larger group of 'aspirational shoppers.' While these groups have different budgets, demands, and expectations, I agree that without a convincing and cohesive story to tell, selling to either is becoming increasingly difficult. Brands also need to adjust to the reality that both client groups are more informed than ever, partly thanks to social media. It's no longer THAT easy to dupe them.

I'm personally loving this reset and the more challenging times ahead, which are largely a result of brands’ own greed during the post-pandemic spending boom. The outrageous, baseless price hikes were just one nail in the coffin of a decline that has been building for some time.

 

[LadyJunon]

Michelle Rhee appointed Head of Design at 3.1 Phillip Lim:

 

[tourbillions]

it feels so unneeded to find/announce c/d's of most brands from nyfw. like proenza and 3.1...

 

[PDFSD]

let these department store brands die pls

 

[Lola701]

There’s almost something terribly sad about the fact that American brands that were created in the 2000’s are having new creative directors. It’s almost like a defeat, a failure.

At the same time, there are big machines like Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors that are still in the hands of their founders.

The most esteemed ones are most of the time European-based (Tom Ford, Rick Owens, Thom Browne).

With brands like Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein, the fate of Narciso Rodriguez, the lack of real impact of people like Altuzarra, what can we say about that American crowd?

I wonder if an European designer would love to be the CD of an American brand as much as American seems to revert French or Italian brands….

tbf the givenchy store here didn't have that much llogo pieces. a lot of tailored things and many of the runway things were produced

Givenchy is still quite dependent on wholesale. They may push the new Givenchy with tailored pieces to some key stockists but I’m not sure the offer is comparable worldwide.

 

[Thefrenchy]

Back to school and back to industry chatters... Allegedly, we're in for a surprise resignation. But the twist is: it won't this year, more likely end of the next one. Too much money has been invested (new stores etc) to agree to an "earlier" departure. The brand is (or seems to be) doing fine, but he allegedly is a nightmare to work with. The question is: why would he be so vocal already and let suits know he wants out? Does he have his eyes on another house?

Those recent nominations are just part one of what is to come in the next couple years...

So that's... allegedly coming quicker than expected because relationship with the suits got even more tense. Expect it Q1 of next year from what I'm told. Guess the summer break didn't make some rest that much and come back in a fresh mood... Some names were mentioned as to where the CD is allegedly headed but let's see how all these debuts perform because I'm certain we could be in for a surprise...

 

[Thefrenchy]

I wonder if an European designer would love to be the CD of an American brand as much as American seems to revert French or Italian brands….

From what I was told, a few Europeans were actually in the process for PS. But eventually, the brand is somehow "so linked to the NYC vibe" (not my quote) that they went for a profile who really had their feet in NYC already.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

... let's see how all these debuts perform because I'm certain we could be in for a surprise...

Soft flops everywhere.
Meh is the new slay!

 

[TurkicMongol]

The designers running for PS should be permanently banned from working in fashion!