Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Squizree]

I don't even think they're 'adapting' anything. they're just making the only thing they know how to make. They come with ONE SETTING. Because I sure as hell haven't seen much variance across their work.

 

[jeanclaude]

I don't even think they're 'adapting' anything. they're just making the only thing they know how to make. They come with ONE SETTING. Because I sure as hell haven't seen much variance across their work.

Yes, it´s true! But just making the only thing they are able to, they are already making the brand adapt to them.

Of course this is not only their fault, the biggest fault lies in the execs, who were unable to identify a "one trick pony" before hiring them both.

 

[Grets]

Predictions:
bLazy will last the 2 years at Chanel. If it's a commercial hit he renews, but if he doesn't it will be another Raf situation of not wanting the burden of business demands bc he's a creative intellectual and above it.

JWA has to pull a Marc Jacobs (to LV) at Dior bc he is NO Galliano. He has to make the leather goods sell, do whatever it takes to make the bags work because he is incapable of interacting with the female form. At least MGC served mother-of-the bride client.

Demna will ride on Tom Ford nostalgia and it will work for a bit. But he's getting tired.

If Michael Rider can stealthily pull a Vaccarello he'll stay. His time at the brand though will be forgettable.

MGC will bring the mother-of-the-bride client to Fendi. Which is at least an improvement from Kim Jones where his womenswear was a bore. No high hopes for hers menswear.

Proenza guys, PPP, Sarah Burton, Louise Trotter will flop.

Pharrell could go when the contract is up and LV will continue this trend of hiring celebs (maybe ASAP or Tyler the creator). I could see NG keep going at LV.

Nadege will stay as long as Hermes does well but she also needs to make a bag that lasts. Her designs are non-events.
GWB we'll see.

Mulier going to Versace? Sure more prolapse condom dresses but with medusa heads.

 

[fenty]

I have this theory that LVMH is afraid to hire someone who isn't black or apart of the Virgil universe because they should've given NG both menswear & womenswear after his passing, unless he's explicitly said that he has no interest in doing such.

 

[mikel]

I have this theory that LVMH is afraid to hire someone who isn't black or apart of the Virgil universe because they should've given NG both menswear & womenswear after his passing, unless he's explicitly said that he has no interest in doing such.

But what about the new hires at Dior, Celine, Fendi and Givenchy?

 

[Creative]

You know, I don’t think they will leave soon. Mainly because there’s no one they can be replaced with. They are the “best” out of the sh!t there is at the moment. And that’s not saying much at all, but who can do Chanel? The only name Id love to see is Phoebe or Hedi, but Phoebe I feel already had her time in fashion and that she can’t really offer much more, and Hedi would be amazing for 4 years but then… idk. Although I do believe his character is well suited for such a big brand with so many collections. I just wish he was obliged to give interviews 😈

So far I’m more disappointed with JW because I thought he’d do better, but everything he’s done so far is… awful, I’m sorry. A few highlights here and there but nothing really interesting.

At least Blazy was able to be featured everywhere with the planets setting. I feel I didn’t see Dior anywhere.

 

[Thefrenchy]

Daniel Lee should be at Jil Sander tbh. Renzo should jump on him the moment he becomes a free agent.

Yes those shapes will be a drastic change for what Jil Sander has been indeed. Are people really going to go for that? I do think that the couple introduced a totally new clientele to Jil Sander. I kind of feel like the new shapes from the new guy are a way to pander to the old JS customer. Does the old JS customer really spending that kind of money at JS?
Maybe Rosso jumped too soon on the hype…

I fear that BV may become too bourgeois again. The fun that Lee brought and the pragmatism of Blazy added something. I’m afraid that Louise may take it to a more classic road.
I’m trying to remember great bags from her show and maybe the alligator ones were fantastic. But clearly, they will be for the 0.01%.


Mugler can work if L’Oreal put money on the marketing. The clothes aren’t bad but they need a push.

Celine is good. I like what MR is doing. It’s not original but it’s right for the house.


We will see with the shows in March but the prefall season is already for me such a good indication of what things might be.

From what I heard (and what those BS "people saw him at the Jil Sander offices!!" rumours derivated from) is that he was indeed considered but there were two issues: now he's too $$$, and he wants full creative freedom. I think RR might have been too burnt by his relationship (or moreso, lack of) with the Meiers who allegedly pushed him out of pretty much most of the decision making there. There's also a budget issue as it's pretty transparent that JS doesn't have the media/marketing power than DL is used to (just look at who sat at the latest JS fashion show...) and based on what we've seen in the past, he's not one who'd enjoy dealing with tight budgets.

No idea if the idea is to bring back the old JS customers, but they better be in the best shape because everything I've seen is quite... unforgiving to say the least. And agreed with what you say, will they actually come back? Let's see. Good luck, I guess.

Regarding BV, I'm very curious as to what turn this is going to take. If the collections are weak, you can always create a smoke screen with good Marketing. They had a really strong Communications department and from what I've seen via LinkedIn they're all gone (one is the CComsOfficer of Versace, another one the Head of Comms at Loewe, their previous CMO is now at Gucci, their Head of VIPs is at Chanel...). The brand still has some aura so they should be able to make good hires but the transfers are also going to be musical chairs because who are they going to get? JW-era Loewe people?

Regarding Mugler, I agree but I doubt L'Oreal will put in any effort. The perfume does the money job. They just need shows as a +1 to their perfume (hence why Anok is the face of it).

Kind of looking forward to those February shows

 

[Thefrenchy]

You know, I don’t think they will leave soon. Mainly because there’s no one they can be replaced with. They are the “best” out of the sh!t there is at the moment. And that’s not saying much at all, but who can do Chanel? The only name Id love to see is Phoebe or Hedi, but Phoebe I feel already had her time in fashion and that she can’t really offer much more, and Hedi would be amazing for 4 years but then… idk. Although I do believe his character is well suited for such a big brand with so many collections. I just wish he was obliged to give interviews 😈

So far I’m more disappointed with JW because I thought he’d do better, but everything he’s done so far is… awful, I’m sorry. A few highlights here and there but nothing really interesting.

At least Blazy was able to be featured everywhere with the planets setting. I feel I didn’t see Dior anywhere.

I agree with you re: nobody is going to leave soon. Everybody is going to complete their contracts, which for most are allegedly relatively short (2-3 years) -- with the exception I'm sure of Chanel and Dior because I highly doubt they'd sign off on such tight time frames considering the amount of collections they have to create per year.

For Dior, I feel like the teasing phase was quite strong (those Basquiat photos were EVERYWHERE in Paris) but then they (and rightfully so, I'd say) pushed slightly too much. They're mega advertisers everywhere, so the amount of Dior specials I've flicked through is borderline ridiculous. I'm more disappointed in the brand POV, everything visually is very stale which is surprising coming from JWA. I'll wait for the SS26 campaign to make a final call on that. My only thing is: I feel like I do not remember a single product that I felt like rushing to the store to get. Those book totes were amusing, but I'd never spend money on a joke-product. The grey knitwear was nice, but I don't need a logo between my pectorals

We, as clients / insiders / observers, need (and deserve) a proper shift but I don't see it happening until we start getting the sales results of everybody's debut SS26.

 

[PDFSD]

Predictions:
bLazy will last the 2 years at Chanel. If it's a commercial hit he renews, but if he doesn't it will be another Raf situation of not wanting the burden of business demands bc he's a creative intellectual and above it.

JWA has to pull a Marc Jacobs (to LV) at Dior bc he is NO Galliano. He has to make the leather goods sell, do whatever it takes to make the bags work because he is incapable of interacting with the female form. At least MGC served mother-of-the bride client.

Demna will ride on Tom Ford nostalgia and it will work for a bit. But he's getting tired.

If Michael Rider can stealthily pull a Vaccarello he'll stay. His time at the brand though will be forgettable.

MGC will bring the mother-of-the-bride client to Fendi. Which is at least an improvement from Kim Jones where his womenswear was a bore. No high hopes for hers menswear.

Proenza guys, PPP, Sarah Burton, Louise Trotter will flop.

Pharrell could go when the contract is up and LV will continue this trend of hiring celebs (maybe ASAP or Tyler the creator). I could see NG keep going at LV.

Nadege will stay as long as Hermes does well but she also needs to make a bag that lasts. Her designs are non-events.
GWB we'll see.

Mulier going to Versace? Sure more prolapse condom dresses but with medusa heads.

Of course there won't be instant fired creative directors in 2026 really, but the flop era will be starting or more clear for many and this will set in motion revisions planning.

Even if i could see Luca de Meo not see Demna vision fit for his ideas for gucci i see a culture and tase clash there once demna keeps going back to his dark dystopia disguised as edgy culture commentary BS. Demna could be let go or he leaves earlier.

Jil Sander & Valentino & Mc Queen will continue to flop as well in the long list of others like you mentioned Proenza guys, PPP, Sarah Burton, Louise Trotter.

new tods will also not build real momentum just as ferragamo , Phoebe taking more traction will makes these brands look like a outdated bad copy as well.

but I see Pharrell continue bit more it's to early for an ext, it's going more than fine, it fits with the LV ceo taste for go big or stay home approach to the LV brand.

Nadege is not responsible for bags at hermes it works bit differently there as a creative directors are splitted between leather good (bags) & rtw & jewelry and shoes that is overseen by the The artistic director of Hermès Pierre-Alexis Dumas (part of Hermes family).

He works like: every year, after defining a theme two years in advance, he take the company’s creative team in a particular direction, using it as a guideline to design Hermès objects with an ever-changing perspective. One example: in 2020, I decided that the theme for the year 2022 would be lightness, which seemed appropriate after the lethargy of the pandemic. That’s how our collections come about.

 

[PDFSD]

You know, I don’t think they will leave soon. Mainly because there’s no one they can be replaced with. They are the “best” out of the sh!t there is at the moment. And that’s not saying much at all, but who can do Chanel? The only name Id love to see is Phoebe or Hedi, but Phoebe I feel already had her time in fashion and that she can’t really offer much more, and Hedi would be amazing for 4 years but then… idk. Although I do believe his character is well suited for such a big brand with so many collections. I just wish he was obliged to give interviews 😈

So far I’m more disappointed with JW because I thought he’d do better, but everything he’s done so far is… awful, I’m sorry. A few highlights here and there but nothing really interesting.

At least Blazy was able to be featured everywhere with the planets setting. I feel I didn’t see Dior anywhere.

But still Phoebe you can see she is the real deal much like Hedi they are in there consistency era to lock down there ways as a lasting signature style not as fashion trend, it feels boring at first but then as seasons pass you notice the difference between the trendy copies and the orginal and this creates a new perception and authority.

Also i know it sounds old fashion but once she decides to do even small in person presentations/shows people will see her Phoebe girls and woman walk and move in the clothes it will come much more to life and be impactful in video as well.

Clothes are meant to be see on human bodies in motion best in person of course but video will do as well, you cant beat this way of presentation its impactful.

I know from her team she is relentless to try things in the collection etc and i am sure she will surprise even with in or out of her mainvision for her namesake brand.
it's still early and she dropped so much already.

But she is dealing with allot building a brand making it profitable while not giving in on the easy way , while reclaiming her overthly copied style and still be true to her vision that´s authentic to her ... while learning on the job of being a brand owner & creative director.

 

[PDFSD]

I have this theory that LVMH is afraid to hire someone who isn't black or apart of the Virgil universe because they should've given NG both menswear & womenswear after his passing, unless he's explicitly said that he has no interest in doing such.

Ng cant do mens he already put some mens look in his shows in LV ...the bosses know even if he would ask it's not his strong point.

Virgil build a supreme type of business for LV mens wear of lots of hype product and limited edition drops that work well for male market as men tend t be collectors look at the watch brands and cars brand they all operate with the same collectible and tier system of access to product (Hermes is the only brand that has successfully done this for the women's market with there bags.

They needed some that was the like Virgil connected to the hypebeast & music culture with authority as a tastemaker in that segment.

It's not that they are afraid to hire a white skin color even if marc and kim where already white, its that now they have no reason to hire a eurocentric white approach to the mens creative direction, they know that it's so profitable this hypebeast rap /supreme culture model that they want to replicate it post Virgil till it's no longer working.

NG has no credibility in mens wear his balenciaga showed it and he also has no ambition in it , Hedi and raf both went out their comfort zones already while NG idea of mens fashion is putting womens wear on jaden Smith .

I find Pharrell anying ego guy but menswear wise he has his finger more on the the segment than NG , athlete´s and artist, young kids want his LV stuff they are the real clients of the wide spectrum of men that dont see being dandy in a suit or old money as the way to go in life.

Its pop its mainstream culture, Ng sells in womens because the designs bring novelty and innovation to the acc and rtw not because he is culturally relevant this marc was better at but lacked in building consistency in acc and rtw on the shop level.

Success is measured in different ways for each creative director what one lacks the other has and vice versa

 

[Thefrenchy]

^ Agreed. I also think that LV Mens clients don't want outstanding designs, per se. They want LV-fied anything, that can be instantly identified as Louis Vuitton. Pharrell (despite not designing ) gives them that, with a sparkle of "cool credibility" because he fronts the brand being who he is. I haven't seen numbers but I'm assuming they're doing okay on the mens front.

In the end, LV is mainstream. Hiring a celebrity who's been attached to fashion for a while and is "aspirational" to anyone from the kids to the HNW individuals who want to display what they have on their bank account is a good / safe move. Could last a while.

 

[PDFSD]

^ Agreed. I also think that LV Mens clients don't want outstanding designs, per se. They want LV-fied anything, that can be instantly identified as Louis Vuitton. Pharrell (despite not designing ) gives them that, with a sparkle of "cool credibility" because he fronts the brand being who he is. I haven't seen numbers but I'm assuming they're doing okay on the mens front.

In the end, LV is mainstream. Hiring a celebrity who's been attached to fashion for a while and is "aspirational" to anyone from the kids to the HNW individuals who want to display what they have on their bank account is a good / safe move. Could last a while.

How many creative directors design or let alone sketch these days :-) its all vintage and mood boards cut and past for this sadly i can't fault Pharrell on ...creative direction is in the end having ideas it can be as simple as asking your team to make the keep all in the best leather and make is as soft as a ritz pillow.

Miuccia Prada does not sketch or sew or cut fabric, she has ideas of what dressing can be to say it simplistically.

Being a good creative director can be as simple yet important skill by giving you teams the idea´s but also the freedom to explore on ideas that go beyond a request.

In the end its about editing and assembling and staying true to a vision or pivoting when something is not working or is not ready to be part of a collection yet.

For a celebrity turned creative director group : i think Pharrell & Victoria Beckham and the Olsen twins put many classically trained designers to shame even with their limits and weaknesses.

Creative design team members do the real day to day job any ways, and why i have no mercy for any creative director doing lack luster collection with no point of view.

 

[Lola701]

NG could have done the menswear the moment he joined Louis Vuitton.
But the overwhelming success of the Supreme collection changed the trajectory and gave a direction and an everlasting clientele to Louis Vuitton menswear.

It’s not so much about style than items and a sort of convenience for men. The man who buys the logo casual stuff at Vuitton will also buy the suits.

From what I heard (and what those BS "people saw him at the Jil Sander offices!!" rumours derivated from) is that he was indeed considered but there were two issues: now he's too $$$, and he wants full creative freedom. I think RR might have been too burnt by his relationship (or moreso, lack of) with the Meiers who allegedly pushed him out of pretty much most of the decision making there. There's also a budget issue as it's pretty transparent that JS doesn't have the media/marketing power than DL is used to (just look at who sat at the latest JS fashion show...) and based on what we've seen in the past, he's not one who'd enjoy dealing with tight budgets.

No idea if the idea is to bring back the old JS customers, but they better be in the best shape because everything I've seen is quite... unforgiving to say the least. And agreed with what you say, will they actually come back? Let's see. Good luck, I guess.

Regarding BV, I'm very curious as to what turn this is going to take. If the collections are weak, you can always create a smoke screen with good Marketing. They had a really strong Communications department and from what I've seen via LinkedIn they're all gone (one is the CComsOfficer of Versace, another one the Head of Comms at Loewe, their previous CMO is now at Gucci, their Head of VIPs is at Chanel...). The brand still has some aura so they should be able to make good hires but the transfers are also going to be musical chairs because who are they going to get? JW-era Loewe people?

Regarding Mugler, I agree but I doubt L'Oreal will put in any effort. The perfume does the money job. They just need shows as a +1 to their perfume (hence why Anok is the face of it).

Kind of looking forward to those February shows

I guess the Burberry episode will « rabattre les cartes ». Clearly, there’s nothing there. No budget, no celebrities, no nothing and no glory for him.

Daniel is not really a maximalist designer either. Yes he likes loud colors but I think he is the type to bring life to something. I really enjoy his aesthetic and his approach to design. I know at least that the ugly green won’t make an appearance.

But yes, JS doesn’t smell good at all to me. I wasn’t a fan of the man for Bally anyway.

I hope Vitale goes to Bally though.

Louise can maybe take the Adrian guy from Moschino when his contract ends lol. Having him as number 2 can add something to her BV. Don’t get me wrong, I liked her Joseph and Lacoste.
I was hoping that she would bring the lively side of her Lacoste to BV. Her Carven lacked in personality.
And I kind of feel like everybody loved things that they won’t buy anyway from her BV. And we have yet to see the collection exist.

About L’Oreal/Mugler, I’m saying to myself that they saw the potential they can have with the brand with Casey. It would be such a waste to go back to stage 0 because you don’t know how to run a fashion business.

If they wants to buy Armani, this is something they will have to invest in.

Nobody is talking about Duran’s Gaultier ahahah!
Im still rooting for him though…Even though the fact that they are missing Couture shows to me that his seat is still not secure.

 

[Thefrenchy]

I guess the Burberry episode will « rabattre les cartes ». Clearly, there’s nothing there. No budget, no celebrities, no nothing and no glory for him.

Daniel is not really a maximalist designer either. Yes he likes loud colors but I think he is the type to bring life to something. I really enjoy his aesthetic and his approach to design. I know at least that the ugly green won’t make an appearance.

But yes, JS doesn’t smell good at all to me. I wasn’t a fan of the man for Bally anyway.

I hope Vitale goes to Bally though.

Louise can maybe take the Adrian guy from Moschino when his contract ends lol. Having him as number 2 can add something to her BV. Don’t get me wrong, I liked her Joseph and Lacoste.
I was hoping that she would bring the lively side of her Lacoste to BV. Her Carven lacked in personality.
And I kind of feel like everybody loved things that they won’t buy anyway from her BV. And we have yet to see the collection exist.

About L’Oreal/Mugler, I’m saying to myself that they saw the potential they can have with the brand with Casey. It would be such a waste to go back to stage 0 because you don’t know how to run a fashion business.

If they wants to buy Armani, this is something they will have to invest in.

Nobody is talking about Duran’s Gaultier ahahah!
Im still rooting for him though…Even though the fact that they are missing Couture shows to me that his seat is still not secure.

Regarding Daniel Lee, I absolutely agree. I think my bank account is the only happy thing that his BV tenure has ended. To this day, it remains some of my favorite RTW I bought in recent years and the quality remains impeccable. I think he's a real CD (i.e able to design AND develop a strong coherent brand environment), so I'll be rooting for him wherever he goes next.

I'm with you regarding JS, let's see what the second show is like. There are very very few points you and I disagree on but I personally enjoyed his Bally. I bought some of the runway pieces (outerwear, mostly) and they hold up well. I do think he's quite terrible at womenswear though. I do not wish for Vitale to go to Bally though. Having heard echoes of how the brand is managed from industry people in Milan, good luck to whoever will want to touch this. From what I was told and since they've been bought by that American holding, they allegedly operate by having their teams work across the other brands as well (and mind you what we're talking about are brands such as Escada and Club Monaco...). Perhaps they should put Gaultier Borsarello there, since he's out of Fursac.

Another tragedy is Tod's, MT does (fairly decent in my opinion) shows and then it disappears and barely anything is available in stores. Top management is also said to be hyper involved, therefore...

Big question mark on what will happen to Ferragamo as well. All this category of Milan brands (Bally, Ferragamo, Tod's...) has really tried it with the "let's make it a cool fashion brand" approach yet none of them have been truly successful at that transition.

When it comes to Gaultier, I don't know what to expect. I personally despised the show, but if Jean-Paul was happy, I guess this is what matters? Very curious to see how this is going to be sold.

Curious to see what will become of Joseph since they're returning to the runway. Looking at Mario Jarena's IG everything looks very dusty, so I wonder "où est l'urgence" to be back to the runway... I bought some nice menswear back in the LT days. They had the loveliest staff at the mens store on Savile Row. Don't think they will propose mens anymore though, right?

 

[Lola701]

Regarding Daniel Lee, I absolutely agree. I think my bank account is the only happy thing that his BV tenure has ended. To this day, it remains some of my favorite RTW I bought in recent years and the quality remains impeccable. I think he's a real CD (i.e able to design AND develop a strong coherent brand environment), so I'll be rooting for him wherever he goes next.

Yes he is great. Total package. He knows how to make interesting HF practical utilitarian clothes. He can do great accessories and he knows how to sell it (merchandising and campaigns). I have to admit that I’m more a fan of his accessories for Burberry though. But his strength is really in knitwear.
That collection he did for BV with the Neneh Cherry with those amazing knitwear still lives in my head.

I'm with you regarding JS, let's see what the second show is like. There are very very few points you and I disagree on but I personally enjoyed his Bally. I bought some of the runway pieces (outerwear, mostly) and they hold up well. I do think he's quite terrible at womenswear though. I do not wish for Vitale to go to Bally though. Having heard echoes of how the brand is managed from industry people in Milan, good luck to whoever will want to touch this. From what I was told and since they've been bought by that American holding, they allegedly operate by having their teams work across the other brands as well (and mind you what we're talking about are brands such as Escada and Club Monaco...). Perhaps they should put Gaultier Borsarello there, since he's out of Fursac.

Another tragedy is Tod's, MT does (fairly decent in my opinion) shows and then it disappears and barely anything is available in stores. Top management is also said to be hyper involved, therefore...

Big question mark on what will happen to Ferragamo as well. All this category of Milan brands (Bally, Ferragamo, Tod's...) has really tried it with the "let's make it a cool fashion brand" approach yet none of them have been truly successful at that transition.

Not Gaulthier Borsarello ahaha. I think he would be a better consultant than creative director. That kind of French aesthetic is bit overdone no?

Ok maybe in menswear he was good. I feel for anyone wearing his weirdly shaped jacket. Is the cut more forgiving than what was shown on the runway?

The problem with all those brands is maybe that the suits wants to play a game without the conviction and equipment needed. I don’t believe in doing things halfway. Either you go for it fully or stay in your lane doing nothing.

Ok you confirm what I was thinking about Tod’s. They have a new CD but it seems like nothing changed. Similar to Missoni too. The previous guy was fantastic, stuff already hard to get was nowhere to be found and it seems to continue.

Unfortunately, those suits are missing something: at a time when there’s a crisis in luxury, it’s the perfect opportunity for them to shine, to push the creativity and challenge themselves.

When it comes to Gaultier, I don't know what to expect. I personally despised the show, but if Jean-Paul was happy, I guess this is what matters? Very curious to see how this is going to be sold.

I liked the show but I figure out that most of it won’t be produced except the bombers. And I guess all the printed stuff will be turned into knitwear or merch…
But I wonder what will be the strategy in terms of both retail for the house in general. They have a small Couture clientele so it’s weird.

Maybe JPG sees himself in his beginning with what Duran did. But Jean Paul seems to be « bon public » no? Rather open minded in terms of taste.
With the rumors of Dossena leaving Rabanne and considering that he did a good Couture for Gaultier, to imagine him there is not a stretch.

Paco Rabanne RTW tiens la route after all.

Curious to see what will become of Joseph since they're returning to the runway. Looking at Mario Jarena's IG everything looks very dusty, so I wonder "où est l'urgence" to be back to the runway... I bought some nice menswear back in the LT days. They had the loveliest staff at the mens store on Savile Row. Don't think they will propose mens anymore though, right?

Maybe they should. I feel like we have a lot of choice in that spectrum of brands but men not so much. I used to be a fan of Joseph. Now I check sometimes but it’s not even interesting in womenswear.
We have so many brands doing the same thing in that « contemporary » market…
Men don’t. So it will be their loss to not reintroduce menswear.

 

[PDFSD]

this shows the industry´s 3 stages of the demise to lack luster vision less. happy new year to all xoxo

post phoebe celine exit mania : image and it product focus phoebe 2.0



pointless arty - removal of consistency in storytelling and vision.


new mid creative directors lost in translation : celebrities as main branding factor brand and product takes the background in favor for seeking hype & viral moment to drive sales.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Between Blazy's Chanel and JWA's Dior, which one do you think will last longer/do better?

Blazy at chanel

 

[PDFSD]

PUCK Dario Dreams​

I had a lot of conversations over the break about Dario Vitale—not about where the ousted Versace designer is necessarily going to land, but where he should end up. The obvious choice is Alaïa, since Pieter Mulier is (almost definitely) headed to Versace. But another insider made a fabulous suggestion for Pietro Beccari and the powers that be at the LVMH Fashion Group: What about Kenzo? Current artistic director Nigo is beloved, but it’s obviously not working, and I’ve wondered for years whether LVMH would try to offload the business. Vitale’s aesthetic preferences—color, youth—are matchmade for Kenzo, which was repositioned as a contemporary brand when Carol Lim and Humberto Leon were designing it. If this happens, I will not request a success fee!

---

 

[PDFSD]

Burberry’s CEO on Turning ‘Britishness’ Into a Global Language​

Joshua Schulman reveals how he’s fuelling the brand’s turnaround with a more get-able take on British luxury and a new sense of urgency in the BoF-McKinsey State of Fashion 2026 report.

BoF: The brand’s marketing message has shifted since your arrival, with campaigns full of cinematic references starring British actors like Kate Winslet and Olivia Colman. It seems the company is recalibrating its approach to ‘Britishness.’

JS: Our brand expression had gone with a very niche view of British luxury rather than a globally recognised view. The wonderful thing about Britishness is there are so many stories to tell, whether it’s country houses or Carnaby Street. I think what’s important is that they be recognisable and globally understood views of Britishness. Daniel [Lee] has shown that he has a broad repertoire, and I look forward to seeing how he interprets them going forward.

BoF: What’s the role of Burberry’s runway show? Where does that collection and the innovation we might see there fit into Burberry’s strategy?

JS: The show is a tentpole moment for us. It’s where Daniel has the opportunity to celebrate Burberry’s codes. I couldn’t be more excited by the evolution of what he’s doing over the past year. Shortly after I joined we had a discussion around Burberry check: it’s a cornerstone of the house. He’s using the check in both more overt and subtle ways.

The runway is a laboratory for ideas that get cascaded through the entire range. The B clip bag with a check strap, which debuted in September 2024, has become a very important part of our business since it shipped in February.