Dior Homme F/W 06.07 Paris

[seeing_double]

I'm still not yet decided on what to make of this collection.

After seeing the runway show, I can definitely agree with everyone that it was a beautiful show. Everything was darkly gothic and romantic that reminded me of Phantom of the Opera.

After seeing the closeup photos of each outfit as worn on the runway, I just got to be a bit confused in terms of what Hedi wants us to do with this collection.

Typically what I've seen from designers is full "looks" and styling on the runway. This has always been (in my interpretation), how the designer sees their vision and wants their clothes projected that season.

With Hedi's completely super-formal collection (pretty much purely black-tie), I'm confused as to what he "wants". Sure we can deconstruct it and take the dress shirt here... the black dress pants there... maybe even a coat or two, but what of the rest?

Pretty much no one attends enough black tie events to warrant large DH purchases this coming fall. Of course I can see someone wearing one of the coats with dress shirt and jeans, but what of that "crazy" bow tie, the smallish bow ties, the spats, and... the cummerbund? Are these all pretty much worthless (oh, sorry... I mean collectors items) accessories?

Perhaps I'm just used to Hedi's runway shows and collections as suggestions for looks people can base their purchases off of for daily wear. Even such borderline-haute collections like Luster had easily wearable outfits in it. So what are we to do with what was shown on the runway? I'm sure what hits stores will be a bit different, with some various tees and things showing up, but I just can't tell at this point. All collections up to now, at least you had an idea.

All in all, a bittersweet collection so far. A return to the monochromatic which made Hedi famous, but full of not easily wearable pieces and looks that are just too-formal.

Some may argue that they'd wear the look, the various accessories or even the cummerbund with their regular wear, but I just don't think it would look right. I prefer to buy designer and have those designs work FOR me. That is, don't have the clothes wear you, but you wear the clothes. Something like that crazy bow tie and a cummerbund just makes you look like you're trying to hard to be a fashionista. I love the subdued elegance. When the design isn't so in-your-face so that people walk by and say "OH, he's wearing that Dior thing".

Just my tuppence.

-A

I definitely understand where you are coming from, but I have to say that I will be one to break down this collection. I do agree that Hedi clearly wants us, the customer, to wear the looks as they were presented, in a avery formal manner...but, as you said, that just won't work. I love many of the looks, however I don't have black tie dinners to attend every friday night, so I think breaking it down just how I will interpret the collection. I certainly won't have the clothes wearing me either. I don't want anyone to say "OH, he's wearing that Dior thing."...but at the same time, I am not going to let that hold me back from purchasing an item I truly appreciate.

 

[sonicyooth]

I'm still not yet decided on what to make of this collection.

I'm sure what hits stores will be a bit different, with some various tees and things showing up, but I just can't tell at this point.

-A

Aiyah! I'm surprised you haven't discovered it by now. Coming to a Dior Homme store near you will be Phantom of the Opera mask (slim fit of course), Dracula cape and fangs, free with cape purchase, and Dracula face on t-shirt, courtesy of the Bram Stoker's estate

Sign
Nearly over Dior Homme

 

[MattS]

i think its quite clear what the lyrics are really saying..i dont find them vague...but i would suggest reading between the lines.

"i've been here before...." returning to original asthetic/form

"...something in my brain, that explains the way i behave"..or behaved. past collections

"wish we hadnt changed...wish we'd stayed the same.."

"i know i've changed.." admitting through lyrics

"at the end of the day it makes no difference what i say, we both know that you will always get your way" maybe a reference to the pressure hedis getting to make changes, and stop all the personal influence.

"we both know i have nothing left to give..." possible connection to YSL rumors...? or the fact that he couldnt push more into this, 'indie'-esque deal with fabrics.

also.. some things being said here i think are being misconstrude. just because hedi used good music for his show, or what some of you (like the above quote) would call "indie" music..does not mean he hasnt changed. What, does he need classical tunes now to go with the suits?..no. This is about the clothing Matt s noone has asked hedi to change his ipod hits.

and as far as "rat pack swagger" the killerssick: )..are drawing influence from past bands, or artist, who used fine tailoring instead of dirty shirts with beer stains. bowie anyone?..prince maybe?

hedi cant "push" rock n roll to a more formal, elegant style. Its already been done. he just happens to like it, but i dont think this show was saying..."ok rock boys, throw off the pete hats, and how bout' a suit with that bass..yeah yeah? " no.

again...my opinion.

I appreciate your comments, I can see your point of view. I disagree to some extent though, I still think Hedi is influenced heavily by music and I do think he's trying to push rock into that style of dress. Rock stars are his high-profile customers, and it's clear that those who wear his clothes are willing to follow his ideas. It's more than not wearing dirty shirts in terms of the Killers though, their whole stle of performance, from the stage set up, to Flowers' style of singing is rat pack influenced. I guess we may have to agree to disagree

 

[chicgarcon]

Cavemen did All their stitching by hand. You probably make a very good defence of Hedi, but as the saying goes 'Don't believe the hype'...

still by hand nonetheless no?

 

[Bellissima]

backstage at dior homme

Brilliant....I love you for your amazing Picture Taking Ability .
I'm very intrigued I must say

 

[JuiceMajor]

Just an observation...don't think I have notice 'black' or 'asian' model on Dior show before.

 

[Morningstar]

Just an observation...don't think I have notice 'black' or 'asian' model on Dior show before.

That is true, there never has been a non white model used in Dior Homme. This is true for a lot of designers (there was a thread about this very subject in relation to Prada). I think a lot of it has to do with the idea that white/caucasion is normal/default/generic. It may not be consciously thought, but I think it is tied to underlying idealogy of the western world. This is discussed in a book titled White by Richard Dyer. If anyone is interesting in checking it out here a link to it (with summary) on B&N.

It would be interesting to see other ethnicity walk down the runway for Dior Homme, but I doubt that will happen because the models chosen seem to really coincide with Hedi's preferences (I could be wrong). Hedi also seems to draw obvious (previous 4 seasons) and not so obvious influences from various subcultures (indie, contemporary mod, hipster, etc.) that are comprised of mostly white youths, so it's not surprising to see it reflect in the choices for the runway.

In any case, I see the models as somewhat irrelevant in the sense that they're main purpose is to display the clothes. If you're interested in seeing ethnic skinny youths in slim clothes both Cloak and Raf use non white models.

 

[johnnykenton]

Everything was darkly gothic and romantic that reminded me of Phantom of the Opera.

i was thinking the same thing. as well as designed to appeal to Hedi's female clientele.

 

[fashionken]

Does Hedi have a boyfriend?

... or is he doing his models?

 

[Colette_B]

^......

 

[dorien]

i think someone has a crush on Hedi

 

[sonicyooth]

Just an observation...don't think I have notice 'black' or 'asian' model on Dior show before.

Is it really surprising given that even Comme and Yohji RARELY use non-white, especially Asian models (well, not in the majority anyway)? However, given the China-as-the-next-big-luxury-market thinking, mainstream labels may use more non-white models. Although I read somewhere that the Western labels such as Louis Vuitton, Dunhill, Prada, Zegna are so desired in China because of the Western lifestyles potrayed/depicted, and tryng to design the shops to reflect local references, for example, is bound to be less successful, so ultimately, white models will still rule.

 

[chicgarcon]

so ultimately, white models will still rule.

no model rules. not since the 90s. white, black, green, whatever.

 

[chicgarcon]

Does Hedi have a boyfriend?

... or is he doing his models?

... I dont think thats any of our business

but, there was a quiet rumor about him and those dandy franz boys

 

[*sayan]

Designers are not politicians, they use whatever is running around in theyr fantasy.

 

[Fade to Black]

Is it really surprising given that even Comme and Yohji RARELY use non-white, especially Asian models (well, not in the majority anyway)? However, given the China-as-the-next-big-luxury-market thinking, mainstream labels may use more non-white models. Although I read somewhere that the Western labels such as Louis Vuitton, Dunhill, Prada, Zegna are so desired in China because of the Western lifestyles potrayed/depicted, and tryng to design the shops to reflect local references, for example, is bound to be less successful, so ultimately, white models will still rule.

Actually it always kind of made sense to me that Comme and Yohji, especially Yohji, don't really use Asian models...i've always thought those two designers made clothes with a very European, specifically Parisian sensibility.

 

[haruki]

Does Hedi have a boyfriend?

... or is he doing his models?

I have always heard that Hedi Slimane and Karl Lagerfeld are lovers, or at least were in the past. I'm not sure if they still are or not.

 

[chicgarcon]

I have always heard that Hedi Slimane and Karl Lagerfeld are lovers, or at least were in the past. I'm not sure if they still are or not.

 

[doo888]

Slimane is/was romantically linked with CNN frontman Anderson Cooper. Before that, Raf Simons.

 

[dhclam]

insider's news direct from showroom:
Hedi Slimane has just renewed his contract with DH, and will surely be having new projects coming out, and they are all in his mind. Regarding this season's change, he just wanna let people know that he's still capable to keep the ideas of making "couture for men", and bring it to life.
To those who don't like the evening look, there will be lots of tees, sneakers and jeans, plus, bags are gonna be major and well-made. We'll see if your buyers from your city be capable to choose the things that you want....BTW, eveybody like the song very much, myself included.