Dior Homme F/W 11.12 Paris

[Mutterlein]

Looking at this collection again, there are some nice pieces. I like the cut of the pants and the jackets. You have to accept Dior Homme for what it is today, it is no longer in the Hedi-era and the comparison has been beaten to death.

It's not so much that one way is good, the other is bad. It's not about comparing the two designers. But you can't ignore that Slimane created a unique brand of his own, one that acted as a meter of youth culture and their dreams and desires, and ultimately, the dreams and desires of an older and more mature customer who actually bought the clothes. I'd like to see these same ideas given a more youthful energy. That's part of the reason why so many Slimane fans are abhorred by the new Dior, it's just lost all connection to youth.

 

[Ghinzu]

This is a quite beautiful collection to my liking, except for the opening look. But it doesn't share Dior's DNA, it doesn't look Dior nor it does look like van Assche's.

Kris is delivering quite nice collections from season to season but they're not connected, they don't stem from one vision. Perhaps Kris is still finding what's "appropriate" to Dior.

PS. Forget about Hedi. Get over him. Dior is not Slimane's anymore so it's pretty silly to whine about it 4 years in a row!

 

[Ives927]

No one is ignoring what Hedi has created and how he changed menswear. But Dior is under a new direction now and obviously has a new aesthetic, an aesthetic that is much different than what it once was. Accept it for what it is now. Stop hoping it to be something it used to be or how you want it to be. All I'm saying is that I'm tired of all the Slimane talk.

 

[Izreal]

KvA will get an eternal bad rep from Hedi-era DH fans for the man responsible for ruining the beloved label, his debut at the house was disastrous, and even though he's gradually gotten better.. i cant help feeling dissapointed each time around..

I don't see that strong of a connection with his own line, sure he has brought some slouchiness to the aesthetic but I still see a lot of "Hedi-ness" on the runway and even more so in the shops... a lot of items are variations or declinations of the hedi blueprint.. except everything feels a bit off ..

The problem to me is there is not a single standout piece, zero wow factor … i know comparisons get tiring, but with hedi's dior every look had a strong identity yet remained cohesive within the collection.. i think KvA's new spring campaign film sums up well the snooze fest he brings at Dior..

 

[jeremydante]

i loved how clean this was; the free flowing design lines were completely separated from what we seen from kris' own collection, which i really appreciated. great collection, cant wait to see this shot editorially & even more excited for the campaign.

 

[birdofparadise]

This lacks the luxurious pragmatism of his namesake collection. He would do well to appeal to the practical side of the Slimane customer that, as Mutterlein broached, was seduced by musings of youth and innocence lost though not forever. He is, as he's already proven this season, better than this.

 

[Boomer]

Hedi!!... HEDI!! Where's you go!!

 

[simons]

he just needs to pick who the dior homme guy is and stick to it! simple as that. there is NO brand image at all.

i like the hats though..

 

[TaylorBinque]

Well..I tought Dior Homme is uber and cooler. This collection is wonderful but not for Dior Homme.

 

[Donatello89]

well...i never liked a Dior Homme collection and this season....nothing new !!

 

[ettebe]

It is like they are still mourning Hedi.

 

[mikeijames]

in this economy, i won't knock anyone who has a paying job, but seriously, what on earth is kris van assche doing at this house? generally, i would defend the designer saying that his offerings at his eponymous house still have that streetwise creativity we love him for, but it's like his work for dior homme, as unexciting as its been, has zapped even that. you don't need a designer like kris van assche to turn out work product like this. and you don't need a house like dior homme to find clothes like this. they all can do so much better and it's sad that there's something holding everybody back from performing at their best.

 

[rayoflight]

Ehh, so boring and bland. It's not Dior and it's not anything else either. Maybe some bits from Fendi men's shows from a while ago and *maybe* a bit Yamamoto/Demeulemeester as other pointed out, but their clothes fit together and have a coherent direction, call it a soul if you must. This collection lacks it completely, just like the collections before it. I don't crave anything, I don't see myself in any of it and truth be told, most of it would look outlandish/ugly on me.
Methinks the only reason why Kris has not been kicked out of Dior yet is because DH still sells well (mostly Asia+Japan) and it's not the new things that sell, it's the staples from past, jeans, suits, shoes, accessories etc. And since DH is profitable no change is needed, as far as the executives are concerned

 

[Boomer]

^ I agree- I can't imagine wearing any of it...very disappointing...When Karl used to show up in Hedi's suits, I often thought it would be a great thing to wear, but this...

 

[deer_st0p]

Not one single piece I would pay money to own here. These looks just look so sloppy on the models.

 

[ettebe]

The way I see it. They should drop Kris Van Assche for conflict of interest and find someone else to head up the mens collection, but thats just me.

 

[styleismatic]

There is nothing special about this collection. It is forgettable.