Dior Homme S/S 07 Paris

[Karl.Popper]

"any type of by-extension sexual mores/sexual roles especially with regard to clothing dont actually exist. like it or not."

Yes. That's why women wear bras for an ostensible support function while men don't. Or men need crotch guards in certain contact sports, while women don't. Come on.

Any chance that these biological as well as structural differences in the human body per gender occasion different senses of proportion? According to you, no. Patent nonsense if you asked me.

 

[Salvatore]

There are a few pieces I'd buy but I do not believe my body build is correct for Dior Homme. I like the jackets most of all.

 

[doktor avalanche]

and blind people typically wear glasses and fat people can pull off over-alls...yeah obviously everybody gets that. why don't you make your point somehow releavent to this collection. how do any of these clothes better function women than skinny white men.

 

[Karl.Popper]

Raf Simons, Ann dem, Rick Owens and Cloak do that too but this is a bit too effeminate..

Ann Dem and Rick Owens - I concur.

People pine for a return to Strip/Luster because it was the high point of Dior Homme's couturesque golden age: it is therefore obligatory to whine plaintively about that lost era while hoping for reversion. Which is precisely why these scene/indie-rock influences are so infuriating - obvious, dates quickly, cheap, tacky (hello, couture??) and a bit pointless after 4 seasons of the same 'undercurrent'.

Avalanche,

The point was completely apposite. You asserted _tout court_ that there was no such thing as gender earlier, then repeated qualified your comments after I pointed out the obvious (that yes, gender exists, whether you like it or not). Your original point was that Hedi was trying to be clever about subverting gender stereotypes... I blew this conceit out of the water by showing that it is a nonsensical notion. That is all.

 

[doktor avalanche]

again, i stated that there was very much so such a thing as gender, biologically....just not socially. a point that you have yet to debunk. but alas. who really cares.

i actually really like the transparent sweater. though it is pretty ultra-queer.

 

[ultramarine]

Hum .. too much hipster/KarenO/Misshapes for me ... this type of copying is not good on my book

 

[hisbedroom]

Parts of this seem very behind the times. I'm disappointed. This is not progressive at all.

 

[birdofparadise]

I'd kill for some of those jackets. None of this excites me as much as Raf/Sanders but I really like the tailored pieces. That NYC hipster vibe don't bother me none...

 

[Zazie]

Isn't the point of being a fashion-forward means you're ahead of the Geos and Dohertys, not behind them? Clubbing anthropology in the form of chasing teenage fashion slaves just strikes me as a silly, lazy way to go about designing a major men's label, not to mention showing too much of one's fashion victimhood. Clubbing clothes are much cheaper and in more outrageously imaginative design elsewhere, not on the runway which is usually too mainstream anyway. Adding a subtle edge is great, but it's got to be something new and original, not something that's already old hat. Take away the scenester outfits and details, and it's none too impressive what remains.

 

[jennifer~]

It could be better - it could be more like last season's...

 

[Zazie]

Actually, last season was worse - too much like theatre costume. This at least is wearable, if only to Cookies, Milkveg, Misshapes, whatever.

 

[theRenaissance]

I felt that this season stuff was pretty okay. At least better than SS06 thats for sure, well at least in my opinion. More wearable as well compared to AW06-07.

It doesnt mean that Hedi is not fashion-forward just because he merely recreate the style from a certain subculture. What is wrong with taking inspirations from a certain group or culture? Well at least he is and certainly doing something different from the other fashion houses. Some different, something out of the norm.

On a personal note, those leather trousers are a little...

 

[ultramarine]

(...) of one's fashion victimhood. Clubbing clothes are much cheaper and (...)

Ones fashion victimhood! LOVE that line!

And ... for a moment I read "clubbing whores" instead of "clubbing clothes are much cheaper..."

 

[jennifer~]

Actually, last season was worse - too much like theatre costume. This at least is wearable, if only to Cookies, Milkveg, Misshapes, whatever.

But (admittedly), I might have just appreciated the costumery, for the fact that it veered so far from the usual street/scenewear thing that Hedi pulls.

This collection will probably break more banks - true...

 

[Zazie]

ha...clubbing whores are "cheap" too...the ones I know will only wear their gear once or twice and move on, so they don't spend too much on them.

The problem with doing a clubbing vibe is that those who go clubbing have already seen it all, and it's a bit insulting to suggest we emulate the likes of Geos, etc., no matter how pretty they are. Anyway, I much prefer the Berlin scene to NY scene for inspiration, those dark bangs were so Love Parade circa. 2001. I miss Berlin so much, are you really there, jennifer?

But...back to the point, is it so cool for DH to be a follower, not a fashion leader?

 

[jennifer~]

ha...clubbing whores are "cheap" too...the ones I know will only wear their gear once or twice and move on, so they don't spend too much on them.

The problem with doing a clubbing vibe is that those who go clubbing have already seen it all, and it's a bit insulting to suggest we emulate the likes of Geos, etc., no matter how pretty they are. Anyway, I much prefer the Berlin scene to NY scene for inspiration, those dark bangs were so Love Parade circa. 2001. I miss Berlin so much, are you really there, jennifer?

No, I'm in my on-screen fantasy: [SIZE=-1]Der Himmel über Berlin[/SIZE][SIZE=-1]... but anything is possible as in Blow-Up (following the films theme...

--- Thomas - [/SIZE][seeing Verushka at a party, the evening of the day she had just told the photographer that he'd better hurry because she had to catch a plane to Paris] I thought you were supposed to be in Paris.

Verushka - [st*ned, h*gh, w*sted] I am in Paris! ---

Dior Homme is practically becoming a knock-offs label... I kid.

 

[Erzébeth II]

If you know Hedi well enough his designs base on androgynity. I love this collection so much.

hedi has stated in interviews that he's not going for androgynous style, dior homme is menswear, just different menswear. it's the media that has given him the "androgynous clothes" title.

 

[Zazie]

Ah Blow-up is ganz tolle! Good choice of film. New (and old) film, art, etc. are more interesting inspiration, I think. The Berlin fashion/music/clubbing is really something. You've got to go. It's also uber cheap to live there.

 

[kavaj]

hedi has stated in interviews that he's not going for androgynous style, dior homme is menswear, just different menswear. it's the media that has given him the "androgynous clothes" title.

Uhm? http://www.fashionfile.com/designers/DiorHomme.html press strip or luster and there is an interview with hedi saying the exact opposite. Read between the lines. Its just his own way saying women and menswear should melt together.

 

[belletrist]

I won't tell anything about the masculinity/whatever things. That would be cheap and useless philosophy/sociolgy. Michel Foucault and many others have said about it anough things. Remember Planton's perfect androgynous legend

Anyway about the clothes. I don't mind to be rue/whatever, but as least, that's good he's doing osme hard collections, I mean: i was tired of the everybody-likes-it. SS06 was a desaster (I don't agree with you concerning fw05, except the the end t-shirts, there' was good pieces, and i liked this aesthetic) because everybody wanted to get that look, wheter they were wearing DH or not. Just think of ebay ("skinny jeans dior homme style for cheap!")

About the show in general, I fell it very good, I don't know why, sometimes show are quite emotionnal (Jeanne Moreau was totally in love and impressed by FW 06 "this is intensive oh my god"). Again, that's for some kind of boy. There's other kinds of people, if you're more classic then go for Hermès, if you want the uuuber and absolutely-not-vulgar masculine look then go for Dsquared². Etc etc